Code 19 will not go away

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tommyturbo

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I bought this car and it ran perfect for a few months. Now I get a code 19 every time I drive it. It's been to two different shops, the first highly recommended by a member here, and the second a recommendation from the first shop.

So it has new crank sensor, cam sensor, dis checked, computer swapped, wiring checked, grounds checked, new plugs, new wires and I still get code 19. This is driving me nuts.

It seems to be prone to coming on when I am shifting gears (rpms go up and down alot) or backing off the throttle quickly.

Any ideas?
 

sholover719

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just a thought sence you said its when you let off the gas pedel when shifting and stuff... i would say to check the throttle position sensor.. just from what it sounds like.... im not an expert on these cars.. but its just my thought on it.
 

tommyturbo

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The code has to do with cylinder id, the computer knowing what position the engine timing is in for injector pulse and plug firing.
 

1993MTXSHO

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Check the cam sensor, just because it's new, doesn't mean it works. Check the connection to the sensor itself too and make sure some mice didn't chew through the cam sensor wires.
 

tommyturbo

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both shops checked the wiring exstensively. They also checked to make sure the cam sensor was sending a signal and it is. The car sometimes stumbles for a second right after a cold start, like sitting overnight. Otherwise it starts and runs great.
 

1993MTXSHO

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both shops checked the wiring exstensively. They also checked to make sure the cam sensor was sending a signal and it is. The car sometimes stumbles for a second right after a cold start, like sitting overnight. Otherwise it starts and runs great.

The question is, is the computer is getting the signal. How did they check it, because to me it really sounds like a cam sensor problem. Especially since you said you have start up problems sometimes. Do you knwo anyone with a tweecer rt? If you do, get them to data log your car and take a look at what's going on when she's running and see if anything looks abnormal while you're driving it.
 

hawkeye18

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All it takes is one pushed pin on the EEC connector... I deal with aircraft components and wiring a LOT; pushed pins can be very hard to find and can cause all sorts of nightmares...
 

tommyturbo

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I'll take a look at the connector for the computer and see if the pins are messed up at all. I don't know how the shops tested this stuff. As for cold starts it turns over really quick, and then stumbles and almost dies, then picks back up. warm starts it doesn't do that.

When I got the car, it ran fine, and this wasn't happening. I did an hour long test drive.
 

tommyturbo

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Hey Question for everyone. I've got the car at my buddies house, I have taken all my cars to him in the past, he's just further away from me know, so it's an hour drive to his place. He's a master mechanic, and in the last 7-8 years I have been very impressed with his work. He's been going through this, checking all the voltages, resistance, etc on the stuff.

He thinks that it could be something to do with the alternator or voltage regulator possibly, maybe a some sort of a voltage spike that occurs when the rpms change durring shifts. All the other parts for the system check out....any one care to chime in?

The crank and cam sensors are new, dis and coil check out, as does the wiring. He said all the pins look fine on the connector for the eec, and the other wiring too. No corrosion or bent pins.
 

tommyturbo

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Thanks Sam, I'm hoping to make it out to willow since I only live 4 miles from there in March, I'll have to take the day off though which sorta sucks.
I'm really wanting to get this resolved so I can enjoy the car.
 

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