Clutch Time

[sdpatt]

After servicing the engine from top to bottom over the holidays, it's now the clutch's turn for some attention. The throwout bearing has apparently worn on the fingers and I am feeling the unsteady pulsing through the clutch pedal as it is depressed. Since this is one of the jobs on the SHO that I have not done myself, I am asking the pool of experience in this Forum for suggestions and tips.

My engine has a mild power increase over stock and the OEM friction material has only been half worn by the time the previous throwout bearings have throw themselves out, so I intend to replace the clutch with SHO NUT's stock Ford clutch kit including the wear items. I also intend to install SHO NUT's ceramic throwout bearing upgrade with the hopes of lengthening my 90,000 mile clutch service intervals. The rear main seal will also be replaced. The oil pan seal was just taken care of during the connecting rod bearing service so that is not required. The Clutch Video should help me determine if this is something I want to tackle myself or pay a more experienced hand to complete.

What I am asking the Forum's collective experience is what are the other items I may need to service or replace on my 270,500 mile clutch and transmission and what tools or lifts are needed for this job. After checking SHO NUT's parts listings for the transmission bearings, it seems that many of the key parts are obsolete. Have you guys found any other sources for these parts? I have done a lot of servicing on the engine and suspension, but the clutch and transmission are unexplored territory for me. Got any helpful ideas?.

 

[drivinhard]

Scott, the clutch video (if you haven't watched it) has a pretty good listing of what tools you'll need. You can see the engine brace used in the video to get an idea of what you need to support the motor. If you plan on going through the tranny, the MTX video (also from SHO NUT) is a helpful tool to. With a helms manuals and the 2 video's, you should be all set.

Even though your tranny probably shifts ok, you'd be suprised at what a new set of blocking rings will do for shifting. Even on a tranny that see's regular fluid changes and normal street driving, at 100k you can tell a difference with new blocking rings. SHO NUT's ring/seal "refresh" kit would probably be what you want. I would recommend regular organic ATF with your new rings, and be easy on them for a bit till they wear in. You'll love the easy shifting.

Chances are the bearings inside the tranny are ok. A few of them are Ford only, and obsolete, so no chance to replace with new anyway. Timken has replacements for some, you can check SHO NUT's site for a listing and p/n's.

When you are doing the clutch, take some time with some steel wool and polish up the TOB shaft and TOB sleeve, little things like that (along with new TOB bushings, etc) got a long way toward a light and free moving clutch pedal. Also be sure to get your flywheel resurfaced (stone ground) at a good machine shop.

<small>[ February 13, 2003, 10:29 PM: Message edited by: drivinhard ]</small>

 

[shojuan]

drivinhard:
Also be sure to get your flywheel resurfaced (stone ground) at a good machine shop.

Bah! Bag that, Scott. Just go out and get yourself a Fidanza flywheel. Try it, you'll like it! thumbs_u

 

[PROPHET]

shojuan:

drivinhard:
Also be sure to get your flywheel resurfaced (stone ground) at a good machine shop.

Bah! Bag that, Scott. Just go out and get yourself a Fidanza flywheel. Try it, you'll like it! thumbs_u

Yeah...What he said.

 

[sdpatt]

There seems to be a bundle of clutch topics active lately. Something shifty going on?

 

[FordLover]

Be prepared for a full days work. I remember the tranny party we had over at Jasons house, it took 2 days to get it done with alot of people helping.
-Martin

 

[93EmeraldMTX]

sdpatt:
There seems to be a bundle of clutch topics active lately. Something shifty going on?

tee hee

 

[rangerj]

Scott,

It looks like they have got you covered. As additional encouragement, anyone who can get through;

Diff E Q, (differential equasions)
Thermodynamics,
nuclear physics, and a whole host of other subjects I cannot pronounce, nor spell,

can easily rebuild a 5 speed transmission and install a clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing! thumbs_u rangerj

PS The next time your near a book store pick up a copy of a childrens book "The Little Train That Could". The driver of the mini Ferrari will like it, and I think you will too! wink

 

[sdpatt]

Today I ordered the clutch kit with wear items from SHO NUT along with the new blocking rings and seals for the transaxle. I had rechecked my service records and found that the current clutch has only 5 years and 81,000 miles on it rather than the 90,000 that I originally claimed. That means I have been able to get at least 81,000 miles out of each of the last two Ford clutches with OEM throwout bearings. I will certainly take good notes and pictures of this new (for me) service. To be able to install a new clutch and refresh the transaxle for less expense than a single new car payment sounds good to me. This will be interesting.

 

[drivinhard]

With a rust free texas car like yours, you should buzz through that bad-boy in 5-6 hrs wink

 

[shojuan]

Scott, you're forgetting the Fidanza flywheel!!! I think you'd really like one of those with the stock clutch! Cheap FWHP plus extra shifting satisfaction.

 

[sdpatt]

I plan to replace the transaxle output shaft seals for the two axles and I thought I already had the parts. After checking the parts at a couple of auto parts stores yesterday, I am not sure I have the correct seals. If you have replaced the axle seals on the MTX, would you please provide the part numbers and the source?

I have planned to install a resurfaced flywheel. I'm not trying to change - just maintain. I would like to install one, but the lighter flywheels cost more than the clutch! Not quite necessary on a 270,500 mile daily driver (that just happens to be a backroad burner).

 

[cRaZySHO.]

Scott, the Motorcraft part number for the axle seals are- BRS-50. The Ford number is E1FZ-1S177-A. If you have trouble getting them, let me know, I have a couple extra laying around.

 

[sdpatt]

Do the axle seals look like the rubber covered pair on the top or more like the larger, metal ringed seal on the bottom of this picture? The pair on top resemble the front main crankshaft seal and are 55 mm in outside diameter with a 35 mm inside diameter. The larger seal fits inside a 62 mm hole and has a 40 mm inside diameter (that hole looks too large).

<small>[ February 15, 2003, 02:53 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[rangerj]

Scott,

Before you go out and get axel seals, check the trans refresher kit. It should include the axel seals. Some kits even include the bushings for the axels (where the axels go into the trans).

The kit should also include a seal for the input shaft, or as some of us old timers call it the "first motion shaft".

A light coat of anearobic sealer around the perimeter of the seal insures against a leak between the perimeter and the case. I suppose you could use RTV, but the TSB I read some time ago recommended anearobic sealer.

Get two bolts that are the same size and thread pitch as two of the bolts that hold the trans to the engine block. Get bolts with a shank, that is no threads at the top. You want them long enough to stick out of the block a few inches.

You cut the hex head off of the bolts, and cut a slot for a screw driver in the end. Now what you have are two "GUIDES", to guide the trans into the new clutch and preassure plate, and up to the engine block.

In fact, you can use them to guide the trans off of the engine block, so that no angular force is put on the input shaft during removal.

You place one to the right and one to the left of center on the upper area of the engine block. The trans and/or engine has alignment "pins", but they are short and you have to fight with the trans to get it to that point.

The alignment pins are usually encrusted with corrosion (maybe not in Texas) and should be cleaned and coated with anti-sieze compound.

It may be a good idea to remove the fan and radiator, so you do not accidently damage them during the removal, or installation.

While you have the axels out, it is a good time to check the CV joint boots.

You may want to rent an engine hoist, if you do not have one. That trans is heavy and having it suspended from a hoist makes it a lot easier to remove and install.

It is easier if you remove the hood, also. Use a long chain so that the hoist arm does not hit the car body when you lower the trans. Darn, I hate when that happens!

Put a couple of layers of cardboard on the roof and the windshield to protect the body and glass. Then set the hood on top of the car, neatly out of the way.

I hope you find at least one of these ideas useful. As I think about it I'll send some more your way, if you don't mind. They come from lessons learned the hard way. Transaxels are a bear because they are heavy and there is very little room to maneuver.

I have 80K+ on my clutch, so I am going to be real interested in the parts you use, and the proceedures you follow. thumbs_u rangerj

 

[rangerj]

Scott,

It is the Metal ringed seal with a rubber ring in the center, and a spring inside that puts tension on the rubber seal. rangerj

 

[drivinhard]

Scott, the 3622 p/n (timken/national, etc) you supplied sometime back is the correct for the MTX-IV. Also the already posted Ford/motorcrap numbers. The bottom seal in the pic should be your axle seal(s). The top 2 look like input shaft seals (you only need one), but it's hard to tell with the pic.

If you are opening up the tranny, it's easier to punch the axle seals out from the inside out, rather than prying on them from the outside.

SHO NUT's ring/seal kit should include 2 axle seals, input shaft seal, selector shaft seal, and 2 speedo O rings.

 

[sdpatt]

AutoZone has the Timken 3622S listed for the MTX-III. I was sure that I had previously found it under the MTX-IV listing.

I didn't order the transaxle refresh kit because I thought I already had the two axle seals for $2.99 each rather than the $25.72 for both that SHO NUT asks. I did order the input shaft seal and the gear selector seal along with the blocking rings. I have a large selection of O-rings in a set and didn't need the speedometer seals.

I had a spare flywheel resurfaced at a local NAPA auto parts store. That was the location where a nearby Firestone MasterCare shop said that they had their flywheels done. NAPA has a "$10,000" flywheel machine that puts a beautiful finish on the flywheel for $25.00.

I was reading the SHO NUT instructions for the clutch replacement and was amazed at the extra work required in the salt zones. Torches, dies, metal brushes, and more just to deal with the rusted bolts. We are so lucky in that regard. The problem I have seen so far is the stripped threads from the clutch service being done previously by a Ford dealership and a transmission shop. I had to Heli-Coil the two bolt holes from the oil pan to the bellhousing during the connecting rod bearing service. I wonder what else I will find.

 

[rendyx]

sdpatt:
I was reading the SHO NUT instructions for the clutch replacement and was amazed at the extra work required in the salt zones. Torches, dies, metal brushes, and more just to deal with the rusted bolts. We are so lucky in that regard. The problem I have seen so far is the stripped threads from the clutch service being done previously by a Ford dealership and a transmission shop. I had to Heli-Coil the two bolt holes from the oil pan to the bellhousing during the connecting rod bearing service. I wonder what else I will find.

Yep! You saw my 60k pics, and the stuff in the way of the clutch was horrible compared to the top of the engine. eek! I worked on it with a couple others, and we used heat, copper pipes, and a lot of strength. Mostly, the job is labor, not much thinking and plotting. If you've got some time, it should be no problem. We did mine in a couple weeks, and it only took so long because of our schedules, and getting parts.

Good luck Scott!

 

[rangerj]

SDPATT,

You got a flywheel resurfaced for $25.00.
I can fly down there, get my flywheel resurfaced, stay overnight in a Days Inn, fly back, and be money ahead! rangerj