Clutch Engagement Point?

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TYSHO

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My clutch has about 3k miles on it since I replaced it.

Thing is, I would get slippage during high rpm shifts or just really getting on it, I had to work my way into the throttle.

So, I replaced my clutch cable and clutch adjusting deal with known working ones. My old one had a broke spring, not allowing to keep proper adjustment.

When I replaced it, I stalled like 3 or 4 times trying to get out the driveway, after I pulled up and let it self adjust. The engagement was much quicker than previously. Once I let up on the peddle, it was beginning to grab and grabbed quickly after. Before, it wouldn't grab until nearly the clutch pedal was all of the way up.

Today, I go WOT and break the tires loose throughout 1st gear from 20-30mph[first time in a long time, it usually slips some]. I then banged it into 2nd gear and it pulled like it hasn't for a long time. After that, my pedal felt weird, so I pulled up on it and it clicked 2-3 times readjusting itself. Now the pedal engages up high again, maybe not as high as before but still, and the pedal is a little heavier than when I first replaced the two parts.

I'm confused, is it suppose to engage right away or up high? :confused:
 

Racer X

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I wanna say that's normal, because mine acted the same way when I did my clutch... but in my heart of hearts, I know it isn't. :frown:

Stock replacement?
 

TYSHO

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Yes, stock pressure plate. My other SHO has a lot of miles on the clutch and engages on the high side, but no problems. I don't know if it's suppose to start low when new, then work its way up when the disc receives wear. :shrug:
 

Cal93sho

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got my new clutch in about 1k ago and I got the same thing, its engaging really high at the very top of the pedal, tryed going two clicks back, and it seems to bed better, more free play and engages around the middle, but after driving it for about a day the pedal will adjust itself back without pulling on the pedal, so now im just trying to get myself into thinking that it must be the way it suppose to feel. 93 MTX, the clutch/pp are clutch masters stage1.
 

YAHTEC

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Ok, just reading through this... I've come to decide that I need a clutch ):
My engage point is just barely off of the floor, its getting harder to shift into any gear, perticularly reverse...I've tryed pulling up on the pedal and nothing... I think its adjusted all of the way.... It doesn't slip, it grabs very hard. I'm thinking its just pressure plate fingers... But while i'm at it I may as well go for the entire job. Good thing I'm off from college for the summer. Ahh I have too much going right now, I still have to take off the tranny from the 99's motor... '

anyway, does my diagnosis seem correct to you guys? thanks!
 

93superSHO

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All the SHO's I have put clutches in when new the clutch grabs about 1-2" from the floor. Mine has the High rev's JR from sho shop and it grabs low on the pedal. Hers is a CM stage 1 and is almost identical to mine in where it grabs. mine has ~2500mi and hers has ~6000mi. They are mechanical and it is my understanding that you want a low pedal ingagement. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
 

93silverbulletSH0

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Mine has a low pedal engagement, a couple of inches off the floor. The car has 126k and I bought it with 121k. The previous owner said it was the original clutch and I have no reason to doubt him based on the extensive records he had and the babied condition of the car. Mine is not like Yahtec's... which sounds like a correct diagnosis of TOB/PP fingers. Next thing you know you will be creeping in gear with the clutch pedal fully depressed.
 

crazy_canadian

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Mines grab also like 2 inches from the floor.
I remember when a buddy of mine tried to do a burnout in his talon, the clutch just slipped a lot, for like 3 seconds (mean alot : engine @ 7000rpm, wheels at 0mph) and right after that till he sold the car, the clutch grabbed at like 1.5 inch further than before, so logically I think when a clutch is worn out, the pedal is high.
 

mosho93

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well, being that a talon has a hydraulic clutch, that may vary things a bit. Before i did my clutch job last week i had a 6-puck Spec Stage III and stock flywheel and it grabbed really high on the pedal and started slipping under any hard acceleration and then eventually slipping under barely any acceleration at all. So now i put in a Spec Stage II with a Fidanza 9lb flywheel, and the clutch engages a couple inches off the floor and clutch is very grippy.

:shrug:
 

92ShoOff

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Yeah same problems here. I've had two clutch replacements within a year of each other a couple of years ago. When the new clutch was installed (Fibertuff w/HD pressure plate) the clutch would catch with the pedal half-way through it's travel. The first time I'd get on it hard the engagement point was with the pedal almost all of the way released. The self adjuster parts look completely intact, and when I went to have the 2nd clutch put in (Spec Stage II) I had a new clutch cable installed. Same thing.

Now I'm putting together a new motor and I'm tossing the stock flywheel for a Fidanza. I still plan on using my previous Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate but I don't want this B.S. of the clutch pedal catching all the way out again because the clutch just wears faster like that... too fast for me to keep up. Has ANYONE solved this problem yet??? It's been a question going around for years and everyone always points at the self-adjuster. I can't even MANUALLY adjust my self-adjuster so I don't know what the heck is wrong. Someone please help us! :banghd:
 

Racer X

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mosho93 said:
well, being that a talon has a hydraulic clutch, that may vary things a bit. Before i did my clutch job last week i had a 6-puck Spec Stage III and stock flywheel and it grabbed really high on the pedal and started slipping under any hard acceleration and then eventually slipping under barely any acceleration at all. So now i put in a Spec Stage II with a Fidanza 9lb flywheel, and the clutch engages a couple inches off the floor and clutch is very grippy.

:shrug:
There is an adjustment at the pedal on DSM's for the engagement height and release bearing tension.
 

TYSHO

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1995mtxsho said:
Keep us posted, for those not attending the convention.

It's the same thing, manually adjust it but wedge something in there to keep it from backing out.
 
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