Cleaning IAB Results - Idle Increased to 1800 rpm

[SuperG]

Cleaning the IAB proved to be worth it since quite a bit of carbon came out. Here is what happened after replacing the clean IAB:

1) The little plastic plunger is cracked, but I cannot tell if that is a problem.
2) I could not see any ports as described in the Shotimes instructions, except of course the 2 main ports. I was expecting a port to reveal itself when I moved the plunger, but did not see anything.
3) I reset the EEC. The engine ran a little better...this morning I PLUGGED in the ISC sensor and the car ran MUCH better.
4) The car runs so much better, that the IDLE is so high that I have to really hold the brake to prevent an accidental launch into cross traffic!

What on earth is happening? Should I buy a new IAB due to the cracked plunger? Should I manually lower the idle?

In addition, there was sand (or some kind of coarse material) in the IAB...also, is it ok to squirt C&C into the exposed ports facing the TB with the IAB off? I am concerned about the gunk sliding into the TB and manifold...

 

[rendyx]

If it works, it might be fine. But the cracked part and the super high idle sort of worry me. Did you reset the EEC according to sdpatt's technique? Cleaning my IAB a couple weeks ago gave me strange results, as the idle now surges madly when the heater is on (and maybe other times too).

Of course I wonder if my problem is from not sealing the gasket with RTV or anything.

<small>[ January 20, 2003, 09:58 AM: Message edited by: rendyx ]</small>

 

[SuperG]

You are talking about the metal gasket...I did not seal it with anything.

I reset the EEC - Disconnected the negative battery terminal, turned the key to the running position, and held the brake pedal down for more than 30 seconds.

Perhaps I need to reset the EEC WITH the ISC sensor plugged in this time?

 

[rendyx]

I'd try resetting it again as you said. Otherwise, I'm not too familiar with the operation of the IAB, and if that crack would make a difference. If the plunger isn't split in half, it may be fine. So try resetting it, and I would think that might solve it. Good luck!

 

[LI_SHO]

Ive tried many ways of resetting the EEC...and the best way that I have found is by slow current draw. To do this, just disconnect your battery and turn on the headlamp switch. Wait like 5-10 minutes then turn off the headlamps. Attach the battery cable, and as soon as the idle gets down to 900 add the following loads:
<center>
A/C
rear defroster
headlamps (on brights)
(if you have a system) your stereo
and leave the door open
</center>
then turn the steering wheel side to side slowly for ~70 seconds.

I've experienced high idles after reset before, but thats only if I touched the gas while reprogramming.

 

[SHOZ123]

Sounds like it's FUBARed and being held open. When it's idling fast disconnect the electrical connector. If the idle doesn't drop this means that something is physically holding it open. If it does then the electrical part is screwed up.

The only other thing that can cause this is a vacuum leak or the throttle plate not closing all the way.

<small>[ January 20, 2003, 10:30 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>

 

[SuperG]

I will run through the reset operation, but it is now sounding like the plunger is stuck...it was not that easy to move in the first place. Well, I don't mind replacing a $50 part.

 

[Hubes]

what and where is the isc?

 

[sdpatt]

SuperG:
I reset the EEC - Disconnected the negative battery terminal, turned the key to the running position, and held the brake pedal down for more than 30 seconds.

Perhaps I need to reset the EEC WITH the ISC sensor plugged in this time?

No, you didn't reset the EEC per the procedure. Yes, you absolutely must have the IAC (ISC) electrical connector plugged in to properly set the idle speed program. Did you set the idle speed with the set screw on the throttle body? You shouldn't ever have to touch that. The computer controls the idle speed with the IAC vavle. Without it plugged in, there is no way the EEC can control the idle speed.

<small>[ January 20, 2003, 11:16 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[projectSHO89]

If the plunger is cracked or otherwise damaged, replace the ISC/BPA. As already said, there is too much air bypassing the throttle plate. That's why you have the high idle.

Perform the idle reset procedure the first time you start the engine after the replacement.

Don't **** around with it, it needs to be replaced.

Steve

 

[SuperG]

I am running the reset right now...while the light switch is on, does the ignition need to be turn to "run" as well?

 

[LI_SHO]

SuperG:
I am running the reset right now...while the light switch is on, does the ignition need to be turn to "run" as well?

no

 

[SuperG]

Arrrrgghhhh! OK, went thtrough the procedure to reset the idle. Once you have done everything (within 70 seconds) can you turn everything off (except the engine), then drive away, or do you sit there for 5 minutes turning the wheel? I did the former and the idle remained high at about 1800 rpm's, then I took her for a drive (very responsive!), then when I parked the idle rocketed to 3000 rpm...I will pick up a new IAB on the way home...anything else?

 

[LI_SHO]

nope...pick up that new IAB and do the reset again.
then enjoy =)

 

[SuperG]

It's a done deal, I will replace it immediately after work...in the meantime, when the old IAB is off, can I spray cleaner into the open ports, which face the throttle body?

Where do I pick one up? Autozone needs to order one...I'll call Ford in the meantime.

<small>[ January 20, 2003, 01:54 PM: Message edited by: SuperG ]</small>

 

[luigisho]

Most aftermarket stores should have or be able to order one. Don't sweat the port the bad valve is the problem. There was someone who suggested cutting the bottom hole so as to make it able to slide on and off the bottom bolt. That way a turn or 2 on the bottom and it's able to come out.

 

[SuperG]

OK, can't find the part, except from Ford. The part number should be f6dz9f715ca...I have tried Autozone and others, any suggestions?

 

[luigisho]

That's strange. I could swear I bought one from there a year or 2 ago. Keep the ford p# in hand and see if you can cross ref. other parts retailers. I know I saw it at http://www.rockauto.com and on the NAPA online site at one point too. Call around locally first and see if some other retailer has it.

 

[projectSHO89]

Tell them it's a Wells TV200. My neighborhood store carries in on the shelf for $54.95.

AutoZone calls it a THROTTLE AIR BYPASS.

If your local store doesn't stock it on the shelf ask them to check their "hub" store for stock.

BTW, My AutoZone is open 27 X 7 for some reason...

Steve

 

[SuperG]

luigisho, that's a great web site...
Steve, Autozone said they had one, but when I gave them the part number, they said, "oops, nope that's not what we have." I will drive in today and look at the part. In the meantime, I will call other places. By the way, Ford and FPN quote the price of $110.