Car running rough, missing

[Corey]

I have a 92 SHO, and it has been having some problems. It first started running rough while ago. I thought that maybe the sparkplugs needed to be replaced. I found that the plug wells were filled with oil, and thought that maybe that was the problem. I cleaned the wells, and wires off, put everything back together and the car ran awesome for about a day. Then it started acting up again, this time it was much worse. It stalls in firts gear unless I slam the gas before I let out the clutch. The car jolts when I am driving as if it is skiping a cylinder or something. I found on SHOtimes the proceedure for the EEC self test so I ran it. This is what I got:

KOEO
111 (twice in a row) - systems pass
157 - mass air flow circuit below voltage
211 - PIP circuit fault
542 - fuel pump secodary circuit failure
KOER
167 - Insufficient throttle position change during dynamic response test
225 - knock sensor not sending during dynamic response test
521 - PSPS curcuit did not change states

Can anybody help me out with trying to figure out what I need to do to fix these code problems. I dont know where to start. I have replaced the plugs, and siliconed the valve cover gasket to fix the oil leak, but the car still runs crappyl.

Thanks
Corey

Thanks Corey

 

[SHO--ripper]

Corey if i were you i would start by replacing the valve cover gaskets and plug well seals. The oil leaking in your plug wells won't be stopped until the seals are replaced.The oil might have destroyed your plug wires, i would order new ones from FordPartsNetwork.com. This might cause some hesitation. You can get the gasket kit from midwestsho.com for $70.
After that i would unplug the negative battery cable to clear the codes. Run the car for a little while and see if you get the same codes.
Next, i would probably replace the fuel pump/filter due to the 542 code. Start by replacing the filter because it is cheaper and easier to do. Is your fuel pump abnormally loud or make any weird noises?
If the car still doesn't run right after all this i would replace the TPS and MAF. That is if it's still throwing the 157 and 167 codes.
Does your tach ever drop to 0 and the car stalls,after that it doesn't start until it is cool? If so, the PIP code might mean you are in need of a CPS. Good luck and i'm sure you'll get more imput from the forum's finest thumb .

 

[sdpatt]

From those codes I see that you have had a crankshaft position sensor fault (PIP = profile ignition pickup, also known as CPS) that has stalled the engine and created the 542 code. You will need to replace the CPS sensor to remedy this fault that can **** the engine as if you turned off the ignition key. Search on CPS for pictures and replacement information. The Wells SU242 is $34.99 from AutoZone, but the effort or labor to install it is a significantly greater expense.

Your fuel pump is fine. You could replace the filter if is is more than 30,000 miles old, but that is not causing your problem.

The 157 code shows that your mass air flow (MAF) sensor has faulted in the past. You can unplug the MAF connector to see if it makes a difference in the way the engine runs, but this is only for diagnostics and not allowed for normal driving since it forces the EEC to use the default startup parameters which will run the engine quite rich. If the test makes a distinct improvement in the way the engine runs, the MAF electronics are damaged and should be replaced.

Oil in the plug wells can definitely cause a misfire. What brand and model of spark plug is installed and what is the gap? When you cleaned the plug wire boots, did you clean the interior with a solvent to remove the oil residue? There could be a spark leak inside the boot that leaves a trail down the plug's insulator. This is called arc tracking and will show a trail like the one in the photo below.

<small>[ May 07, 2003, 09:19 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[Corey]

Thanks for the info. I am currently trying to fix my power steering problem. I think I have a leaky hose, but cant find exactly where the leak is coming from. I will keep you guys informed as to what the problem was. I think I am going to clear the codes before I do anything, and then run the code again to see what I get. Some of these codes may be old, I am not sure. I will let you know.

Corey

 

[sdpatt]

Just for the record, to clear the memory codes, run the KOEO test and remove the jumper while the codes are being flashed on the CE light.

 

[Tim Schloz II]

codes 167 and 521 are becuase you didnt activate all the switchs at the begining of the KOER test.

 

[Corey]

How do you active the switches? I have no idea what you are talking about. Fill me in please.

Thanks

 

[projectSHO89]

KOER
167 - Insufficient throttle position change during dynamic response test
225 - knock sensor not sending during dynamic response test
521 - PSPS curcuit did not change states

Corey,

What Tim meant was that you missed part of the test. When the CEL flashes once, that is your signal to goose the throttle, turn the steering wheel back and forth, and hit the brake, all within about 10 seconds.

Since you either missed that operator response or mis-timed it, those codes are the result.

It takes some practice to get the "goose test" right.

Steve

 

[Corey]

Check this out guys, I disconnected the battery and depressed the brake so that I could clear the memory. I re-ran the codes and this is what I got: KOEO: 111
111

KOER: 111
111

KOER (second trial): 225
225

How do you know if you are doing it correctly. I ran the car at 3000 rpm for a couple of minutes. turned off the car, connected the EEC connector (self test), restared the car and waited. I saw the 3 blinks, I waited, saw the single blink, turned the wheel all the way to the left, and all the way to the right, depressed the brake, and hit the gas to about 3000. This is right as far as I know, but why would it give me different codes each time. Any suggestions.

thanks

 

[sdpatt]

Looks like you ran the KOER test properly that last time. The 225 is only a concern if you are having problems with a lot of knocking. Ignore otherwise. To see the test procedures and code descritpions, look here.

Please reread my earlier post about the easier way to reset the codes without losing your clock and radio settings.

 

[Corey]

Hey sdpatt,

Thanks for that insight about clearing codes. I guess I didnt get a chance to read your reply before I went to work on my car. Well I got the power steering done, hopefully. But, now that I get codes saying everything is ok, why is my car running like crap. How do I know if it is my wires, or coil pack. Where should I start. I have another engine that I can use for parts, but I dont really know what to do. I just put in new plugs, no change. I am going to put the wires from my other engine on and see if they make a difference. Let me know if you can think of anything.

Thanks