car is evil

[sperold]

That looks like a crank sensor, or the wire running to it, to me.
It is one of the few things that can **** the car without throwing a code.
Read up on the install as there are lots of little traps (like a magnetized screw driver and spacing the new sensor properly), but I would start there.
If shipping is from the same source, consider a cam sensor for the future.

 

[Joseph Ellis]

That's ugly. It could be alot of things. Anything from a faulty ignition system to a vacuum leak or electrical short issue. It very well could be the computer. You could take it somewhere with really good diagnostic equipment or keep attacking it with tests and parts at home. I think I would eliminate the PCM possibility, go on you tube and watch how to check for vacuum leaks videos and go do that.

Also does it throw codes after it's been run like that? That's a big miss. I wonder if the knock sensor is out of range because of failure or excessive pinging? Injector issue? I doubt it but who knows yet..

yes it throws the engine light on while driving after it does all this and mind you this is a calm one it is usually way more violent and cuts completely off and is a booger to start back

 

[Joseph Ellis]

Ok I have took it back down and removed the crank sensor does anyone know how to check it or should I just not play with it and just replace it.

 

[luigisho]

Replace

 

[rubydist]

you need to replace it, because your problem is intermittent - even if you could test it, it would test good when at room temperature.

the magnet is on the bottom part of the sensor, and it will try to attach itself to the shutter wheel - you need to make sure that the gap on the top side is not too large - a matchbook cover is a good gauge to use for this - you basically just want to ensure that the shutter wheel does not contact the sensor either on the top side or the bottom side.

 

[Joseph Ellis]

Ok guys i replaced the crank sensor and cam sensor and reset timing and drove her and still no luck. The engine sounds strong but no power (will not pull u back in seat) and its still hard to crank. So as a last resort i cut the converter out, thinking it may be messed up and still no power just obnoxiously loud now. What to do now........

 

[zoomlater]

What fuel pressure (at the rail) did you measure in your first post

 

[Joseph Ellis]

i just checked it at the rail valve stem by depressing while the car was running and it sprayed the bottom of the hood i dont have a fuel pressure tester. now i did run a cylinder balance test and it came back with a code 9 which is passed

 

[zoomlater]

Sounds like you have enough pressure. Did you already clear your codes (after you did the those sensors) and see what is showing up now

 

[Joseph Ellis]

codes are clear and havent checked again but im going to

 

[rubydist]

this has been going on long enough that I have forgotten if you have changed the throttle position sensor or not. If not, I would change it. The pcm relies very heavily on the tps to know how much air is going into the engine (the tps responds more quickly than the mafs to changes) and if the tps has flat spots on it, the engine will lean out during transitions (stepping on the gas for example) which causes the power to be way down.

The other thing I would look at is to open the hood at night and spray down all the spark plug wires with water from a spray bottle while the engine is running, looking for arcing. If you have any of that, you will need to change plug wires (and possibly plugs, depending on where the arcing is.)

 

[Joseph Ellis]

Last time i cranked it i didnt really hear a miss in it but it just has no pwer and no i havent changed the tps sensor

 

[sperold]

Change the TPS. Except for wiring, that is about all that is left.

 

[itwonder]

I have not been following all in this thread, but listening to the video, it sounded like your plug wire order may be incorrect.

If the tach is still jumping, and you've changed the cam sensor already, then that leaves the DIS (you said in 1st post it's good, but how do you know that?), wiring, or the tach itself.

 

[Joseph Ellis]

I have not been following all in this thread, but listening to the video, it sounded like your plug wire order may be incorrect.

If the tach is still jumping, and you've changed the cam sensor already, then that leaves the DIS (you said in 1st post it's good, but how do you know that?), wiring, or the tach itself.

I never unhooked any of the plug wires so they are good. As far as the DIS box i used the one off my 93 and it did not change anything, basically now the car just has no power.

 

[sperold]

A car that runs well but has no power usually points to the timing not advancing. Put a timing light on it and see if it stays at 10 degrees all the time.
There are 2 spout connectors (I think) in the system, check to see that both have their molded end piece (jumper) attached.

 

[zoomlater]

codes are clear and havent checked again but im going to

Did you have a chance to check the codes again

 

[Joseph Ellis]

Alright guys i have tore it down and I have the knock sensor in my hand, now a few questions. Is there a way to test this thing or should i just replace it also is it possible for this thing to be messed up internally and the reason I ask is when i try and start the car it turns over a couple times and then pops back out the intake a couple times kinda like the timing is off before finally cranking and if this is bad it can pull timing away correct? The car seems to do everything correctly but as i said before no power. Also i have a couple of DSM guys that have a similar issue called phantom knock on their race cras and so they have to move their sensor and just ground it to the firewall or somewhere is this a good idea or no.

 

[rubydist]

just put the knock sensor in.

take the upper timing cover off, and double-check the timing belt to make sure the valve timing is correct. your symptoms could be a misaligned timing belt system. the marks on the crank and each cam must line up at the same time, or the timing is off.

 

[luigisho]

I agree with above. Timing sounds suspect.

If that is so, then the follow up is why. Install error or tensioner failure??