car is evil

[rubydist]

we need to know:
1. did the 111 or the 121 show up first on the koeo test?
2. did you have the mafs unplugged while you ran the koer test? If so, please plug it back in, reset codes and drive a couple more days then pull codes again and report them to us.

 

[luigisho]

Did the car run at a stable idle when you got it up to temp? All 3 parts can disrupt the fuel mixture and peg the adaptable range that they operate in. So it's hard to say if one is bad affecting the others. The spout code is still bothering me. I am looking for the tps test you can do with a volt meter to make sure that is working correctly.

This might be close
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...&mid=8B8A6174987AEAA7642F8B8A6174987AEAA7642F

 

[Joseph Ellis]

we need to know:
1. did the 111 or the 121 show up first on the koeo test?
2. did you have the mafs unplugged while you ran the koer test? If so, please plug it back in, reset codes and drive a couple more days then pull codes again and report them to us.

1. YES IT DID
2. NO EVERYTHING WAS PLUGGED UP

 

[Joseph Ellis]

Did the car run at a stable idle when you got it up to temp? All 3 parts can disrupt the fuel mixture and peg the adaptable range that they operate in. So it's hard to say if one is bad affecting the others. The spout code is still bothering me. I am looking for the tps test you can do with a volt meter to make sure that is working correctly.

This might be close
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...&mid=8B8A6174987AEAA7642F8B8A6174987AEAA7642F

yes it idled fairly well until it reached temp. but at that point it began to stumble and miss and pop back through the intake and had to restart a couple of times. and then it cleared up and began to idle good again.

 

[luigisho]

Yes most of them are. I don't know what your financial situation is but if it was me- I'd throw a new O2 sensor and TPS on it and call it regular maintenance items and see if that helps. Seems like a sensor issue if it has issues only after it's at operating temp.
Did you ever replace the cam sensor? When you originally posted you said the tach gauge was going all over the place. Did the engine rpm's go up and down in tandem with the gauge or was the engine at a single speed with the tach reading all over the place?

 

[Joseph Ellis]

sorry guys some ******* got to my computer while i walked away and posted my car is a pos that was not me and i do not feel that way at all about my cars. so i deleted it

 

[Joseph Ellis]

Yes most of them are. I don't know what your financial situation is but if it was me- I'd throw a new O2 sensor and TPS on it and call it regular maintenance items and see if that helps. Seems like a sensor issue if it has issues only after it's at operating temp.
Did you ever replace the cam sensor? When you originally posted you said the tach gauge was going all over the place. Did the engine rpm's go up and down in tandem with the gauge or was the engine at a single speed with the tach reading all over the place?

no i didn't replace the sensor and sometimes the engine misses and stumbles and the tach stumbles with it but i have been holding a steady rpm and the tach would jump with no input from me or change in the engine

 

[luigisho]

I'm just wondering about multiple fault codes and difficulty in pinpointing one failing component. We still don't know for sure if one or more things are failing or if there is a common electrical ground or signal problem. Do you have a strong battery and alt output?

 

[Joseph Ellis]

I'm just wondering about multiple fault codes and difficulty in pinpointing one failing component. We still don't know for sure if one or more things are failing or if there is a common electrical ground or signal problem. Do you have a strong battery and alt output?

yes sir battery is about a year old and and alt. checks good

 

[Joseph Ellis]

i will swap the tps with the 93 i have and see what happens i will also do the same with the maf but one at the time. That should narrow it down wouldn't you think

 

[luigisho]

A good idea

 

[rubydist]

So, the 111 showed up first, then the 121?

That means the 121 was a stored code which says the tps was out of range. The tps out of range is an issue that you must have resolved for the engine to run right, because the pcm uses the tpc very heavily in the calculations of how much air is going into the engine. So, you need to watch that one to see if it returns.

136 = lean on left bank
159 = mafs out of self-test range
536 = boo circuit failure
538 = operator error during cylinder balance test

From these codes, and your answer that everything was plugged in, I would conclude that you have:
a bad oxy sensor on the left bank, or a significant vacuum leak that is impacting only the left bank. I would lean toward the oxy sensor.
a bad connection to the mafs, or a bad mafs. I would start by unplugging and replugging the mafs.
a bad fuse on the circuit to the brake lights. Note that with a boo circuit failure, there are no brakelights
you were doing something that you should not have during the cylinder balance portion of the koer test. I would not worry about this just yet.

I suggest you reset codes, and then tackle the items above. Once you have taken a stab at getting them fixed, drive the car another couple of days and report to us what the codes are at that time.

 

[itwonder]

The boo failure can also be a brake light switch that has developed high resistance. it will voltage test good open circuit, but will not pass enough current to illuminate the lamps.

 

[Joseph Ellis]

OK guys I admit sometimes i miss some stuff in the directions so with that said I unhooked the battery for a couple days done a thorough check of all wires and plugs for the sensors and reconnected the battery and drove it a while and heres what i came up with. I run the koeo test and i got a 111 system pass code, with the koer test (which I did correctly this time) the only code i can get is a 225 whish is knock sensor not sensed during dynamic response, and i drove it and checked it a couple of times, with the same result.

 

[rubydist]

that's great that there are no codes now.

do you still have symptoms of a problem?

 

[Joseph Ellis]

Oh yes nothings changed there. Heres a little bit of info as well, after the battery was unhooked and the car was cold I jumped in it started ui and immediatly drove out on the highway and took off. The car was doing just as it used to and as soon as it reached normal operating temps it began missing and stumbling for a bit then cleared up and after that the car felt like it was pulling a barge no power. This was the first time I've tried that and as i said the only code i get now is 225 knock sensor not sensed during dynamic response.

 

[zoomlater]

From the Shosource website on knock sensors, I have not replaced this part before, but it might be the issue based on the code that showed up

http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_45&products_id=305

 

[rubydist]

with no codes and those symptoms, the pcm is now suspect.

 

[Joseph Ellis]

heres a short video of what it does while idling. the part at the end is me trying to give it throttle and you see it misses.

 

[luigisho]

That's ugly. It could be alot of things. Anything from a faulty ignition system to a vacuum leak or electrical short issue. It very well could be the computer. You could take it somewhere with really good diagnostic equipment or keep attacking it with tests and parts at home. I think I would eliminate the PCM possibility, go on you tube and watch how to check for vacuum leaks videos and go do that.

Also does it throw codes after it's been run like that? That's a big miss. I wonder if the knock sensor is out of range because of failure or excessive pinging? Injector issue? I doubt it but who knows yet..