Car dies --- Cranks but will not turn

[Jaz2099]

I was at a stoplight hit the gas to go and it died (no noises -- popping or otherwise). Had enough momentum to quickly pull off the road. It will not start back up. Fuel pressure is fine -- fuel piump has normal whining. I have no spark. Car ran fine, idled fine, etc... So what would be the most likely cause of this? Doesn't seem like the crankshaft position sensor would be it or would it? No codes as of yet didn't have code reader with me and car is across town.

 

[Huntervf]

Crank the car over and watch the tach. Does it move at all or stay at zero? If it stays at zero then you have a bad crank sensor.

 

[ViPER1313]

You don't need a code reader, only a paper clip - search around the forum for the proper procedure.

Did you check your fuses? I would bet it is the CPS - did it start later? Does the tach move when you are cranking the car? Possibly the DIS or the coilpack took a crap.

 

[Jaz2099]

Forgot about the tach thing, duh. I will check the tach. I''m going to go check the codes on it pretty quick here(need code reader cel doesn't work anyways which sucks). Have to drive 7-8 miles across town to get to it. "did it start later" I guess I will see -------- Fuses are fine BTW.

 

[mccrash]

it might be the relay box on top of the fan.

 

[Jaz2099]

1993 atx 133,*** got it at 114,*** could definetly be crankshaft position sensor ---- no clicking noise

 

[mccrash]

if your talking about no clicking noise coming from the realy box on the fan thats bad.i got a 94 i dont know about 93 models,you sud hear it click about 2 or 3 times.that tels that the power is running thru it.

 

[Jaz2099]

It is the DIS ignition control module ---- had it tested. Posting in wanted to buy if anyone can help me out. TY

 

[Jaz2099]

In searching I found goofy autozone is not to good at with their test methods for the ICM . I guess the one I found at a local junkyard will be my spare. So as you can tell my car is still not turning over . I'm going with the ignition coil ---theres no clicking other than what should be there from the relay box or otherwise and the tach moves while cranking rules out crank sensor ) My concern is the wire that connects to my ignition coil I have is different from the connection type on the ignition coil autozone or advanced,etc... sells . The ignition coil they sell has a lock at the top and a guide at the bottom that is centered. My wires that connect into the ignition coil has the bottom off center. Even on rockauto I went to find pics of one and the connection is centered I need an off centered connection. Anyway hope this makes sense. I wasn't able to find anything regarding this. My concern is modifying it to connect --- Will it work anyway ?

 

[jaded93atx]

Shos have two coil packs, it would be rare for both to fail at once and cause a no start, rather than poor driveability. Does the CE light stay on while cranking? No spark, 133000 miles, a pass on the DIS and a ce light on during cranking with a no start points at cps. I just had it happen, unfortunately I drained the battery to much trying to start it and was never able to pull a code and had to rely on ruling everything else out first. I skipped all the preventative maintenance stuff and just replced the CPS as outlined in shotimes.com. I have an ATX and a couple of things differ but the whole process only took about 4 carefull hours and 50 bucks, its been running fine since.

 

[Jaz2099]

O.k i'm ruling out crank sensor because it was supposedly changed along with camshaft position sensor and timing belt among other things recently before I bought it at 114,000. This to my knowledge has checked out. Timing belt looked good when I recently had the water pump done. No reason not believe the person I bought it from ---- knew him and I still talk to him regularly. He told me things that he didn't do. Like water pump, plugs, wires. Anyway, my CEL does not work as stated above. As far as codes go I get none other then coolant above or below normal temp --- junk like that

 

[Jaz2099]

Two coil packs? Where are they located?

 

[ohfosho]

slightly off topic---
actually i am almost garenteeing that if you have no tach movement, or intermitant, than it is the CID (cam sensor)...i began to have troubles starting the car when it got warm, and then my tach would read 0 most of the time. had no codes regarding CPS at this time. i replaced the cam sensor and did the valvecover gaskets...porblem solved, until 2 months later when the car started stalling, and not wanting to restart...checked codes and now it was CPS time.

 

[projectSHO89]

slightly off topic---
actually i am almost garenteeing that if you have no tach movement, or intermitant, than it is the CID (cam sensor)...i began to have troubles starting the car when it got warm, and then my tach would read 0 most of the time. had no codes regarding CPS at this time. i replaced the cam sensor and did the valvecover gaskets...porblem solved, until 2 months later when the car started stalling, and not wanting to restart...checked codes and now it was CPS time.

I can guarantee that your guarantee is incomplete.

CIS, CPS or ICM can ALL cause a no tach reading.

Steve

 

[Jaz2099]

So anyway I do have tach movement by the way. The 2 coil packs statement I finally figured out. To correct you Jaded93atx I believe the ignition coil has three not two seperate coils --- one for each pair of plugs. If that is indeed what you meant. So I tryed a good coil, a good ICM now i'm going to do the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. It has been 40k miles since they were changed last according to previous owner at 95k while timing belt was done. Unless I find something else out or someone has another idea besides 40k mile old camshaft and crankshaft sensors then thats what i'll try next.

 

[jaded93atx]

Yeh I guess thats what I meant, thanks for correcting me...regardless it would be highly improbable that all THREE would fail at the same time and cause a no start condition rather than one at a time resulting in poor driveability first, I guess its a little too late to try and save you a few bucks throwing parts at your car.
BTW I did had tach movement while cranking when my CPS failed but unlike you my ce light stayed on while cranking. When my CID failed my car would intermittantly not start when heated but would "try to" and would eventually fire up after a few tries, albeit running poorly and with no tach until I floored WOT then the tach would catch at about 4500 rpm, but it only happened when heated. My car reacted completely different with the bad CPS, there was absolutely no spark and no attempt to fire up, and it wasnt intermittant it happened all the sudden after running fine earlier and after the car sat for 8 hours. Thats not to say it deffinately is your CPS, its just how my car reacted when mine failed.
Good Luck

 

[Jaz2099]

While I figured I would find someone whos car just died like this and didn't restart but I guess not. So I changed the camshaft position sensor out. That didn't do the trick kinda busy right now have family over for a christmas party so the crank sensor will have to wait a while probably not until this coming up weekend anyway. I'm gonna have to do searching some more because I feel like this is not going to work even after i've done cps, cid maybe timing chain or something? As far as these parts go I figure less stuff I have to do later on. I like this car and will have it a while ---- I hate car payments also. Actually after the ICM didn't do the trick when Autozone said it was bad I went for the coil because its pretty much easy ---- much easier than crank sensor to get to and stuff --- went ahead and did plugs and wires too.

 

[joshwise2003]

same thing happned to me today i was at a stop and i went to go and it died but started shortly after, got up to leave today it started up and i shut it off to see if it would restart...nope didnt start any insight would be appreciated im new to the boards, and i just got a 1990 mtx just installed the rod shifter and shoshop y pipe

 

[Jaz2099]

Welcome, probably start your own thread for more responses. did you check codes? --- http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...le=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=83 Good site anyway if your new. Check fuel pressure on valve coming up on right side of intake 35- 40 psi I beleive? Check for spark? Another good site --- http://shophoenixproject.com/
The search button is your friend Good Luck

 

[joshwise2003]

yes i checked the shrader valve and the fuel just dribbles out but i can hear the fuel pump kick on when i turn the key.. uhg