Car bogging while driving

[SHOstuff]

cam sensor is on the passenger end of the engine, on the rearmost cam. it is the little black round thing that is about 1" thick and 3" around.

Oh ya...that's right. Thanks for the reminder Rubydist.

 

[SHOstuff]

Changed plug wires, cam sensor, air filter, fuel filter, maf sensor, ect sensor and plugs. It still has a slow take off. Any other ideas? I'm out of them.
Test drove it but didn't drive long enough for it to gather codes, so no codes yet.

 

[187 SHO]

Check your underhood fuse box.specifically the 10amp ones.wiggle the fuse while running see if it dies or stumbles.i just took mine apart today & tighter up the connection between the 10amp fuse & red/green wire.i have had same problem for months.also a while back my crank sensor wire had gotten chewed up by the WP pully.causing problems like that.

 

[SHOstuff]

Check your underhood fuse box.specifically the 10amp ones.wiggle the fuse while running see if it dies or stumbles.i just took mine apart today & tighter up the connection between the 10amp fuse & red/green wire.i have had same problem for months.also a while back my crank sensor wire had gotten chewed up by the WP pully.causing problems like that.

What were your symptom's? What aere you noticing and what was it doing?

 

[Vnuk1]

Have you checked the "TPS" Throttle Position Sensor? I mean you've checked and swapped everything but that, re-reading your thread I didn't see anything regarding it. Something to look at...

 

[187 SHO]

It would sputter on acceleration sometimes.out of nowhere this would happen.then come back to life again like nothing was wrong.that little 10amp fuse does alot.its also is tied into fuel pump.so if in gets loose ,it causes lots of problems.i almost put in a fuel pump before checking out the wiring first.

 

[SHOstuff]

Have you checked the "TPS" Throttle Position Sensor? I mean you've checked and swapped everything but that, re-reading your thread I didn't see anything regarding it. Something to look at...

I had no reason to check it because it didn't come up in one of the codes. I was told to start with my codes and stop throwing money at it, which I did anyway by reading the codes...so that was redundant as far as trying to save money. But what is the symptom of a bad tps sensor?

 

[SHOstuff]

Vnuk, you may be on to something...maybe lol. But I was doing a search and I found out that the TPS doesn't neccessarily throw any codes if it's bad so you won't see it. But I was also thinking, what about the ignition coil? If it's bad wouldn't restrict my power?

 

[SHOstuff]

No feedback? Anyone?

 

[SHOstuff]

So I take it that everybody has ran out of ideas?

 

[SHOstuff]

This thread nwould be good for someone else in the future for references and something for you guys to fall back on so this would be beneficial to all once this is all said and done. So with that said, I would appreciate some more input on this matter to help everyone, not just me. I need y'alls help guys...badly. So someone please reply with some helpful suggestions to rectify this matter. Thanks!

 

[Vnuk1]

Go to a Mechanic, report back with your findings...

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

looks like a TON of help was given on here to me.

 

[SHOstuff]

I never denied the help. But I also gave a lot of feedback as those suggestions been given also. And since I gave the last one, no one replied.

 

[rubydist]

if the tps is sick, it can get a 'flat spot' on it where the resistance does not change as the throttle opening changes - and this will generally not set a code. this causes the pcm to think there is less air going into the engine than there really is, and therefore it will run lean. the mafs is supposed to 'see' this and correct the pcm, but somehow in the program for these cars the tps seems to be more important than the mafs.

if you have this problem, it will be related to throttle position, so you should be able to repeat it - certain throttle openings result in the problem, others will not.

if you think you can repeat your symptoms by throttle position, then changing the tps makes sense.

 

[SHOstuff]

if the tps is sick, it can get a 'flat spot' on it where the resistance does not change as the throttle opening changes - and this will generally not set a code. this causes the pcm to think there is less air going into the engine than there really is, and therefore it will run lean. the mafs is supposed to 'see' this and correct the pcm, but somehow in the program for these cars the tps seems to be more important than the mafs.

if you have this problem, it will be related to throttle position, so you should be able to repeat it - certain throttle openings result in the problem, others will not.

if you think you can repeat your symptoms by throttle position, then changing the tps makes sense.

I'm not quite understanding this. So how do I go about testing this theory?

 

[theman88b]

Unplug the TPS!!!

 

[SHOstuff]

Unplug the TPS!!!

So unplug the TPS to see if I get the same throttle response?

 

[theman88b]

Yes unplugging it will make the car use other sensors to compensate, so if it runs good with it unplugged then that is your problem. Diagnostics for 80's and early 90's vehicles was terrible, a lot of the maunals say test with known good part.

 

[SHOstuff]

Yes unplugging it will make the car use other sensors to compensate, so if it runs good with it unplugged then that is your problem. Diagnostics for 80's and early 90's vehicles was terrible, a lot of the maunals say test with known good part.

Ok cool!:woo-hoo: I'll give that a shot and I'll post back to let y'all know what happens.