Caliper question... part 2

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masho95

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So I installed a new passenger side rear caliper. Seems to still be leaking at both the spring pivot point and the bottom washer at the end of the brake hose. It may be just the bottom washer of the banjo bolt leaking and dripping on the spring pivot point but seems to be both. Any ideas? Suggestions? New crush washers came with the caliper and were installed. And the banjo bolt is pretty damn tight... as tight as I dare with a 1/2" ratchet. Don't want that thing breaking off in the caliper.

The brake hose was recently replaced (new hose). Any chance of the hose being defecting causing the leak?? I'm about to pull my hair out..no wait I don't have any!
 

Shoaz

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I've had new crush washers not seat well and wind up leaking. Crush washers are cheap and plentiful at most car part places, you might try just getting some more and trying again.
 

shopartsnw

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Last reman rear caliper I bought had a ding in the mating surface for the crush washer. I went through about 6 crush washers before I found it (it would not leak unless the engine was running and you had full pwer brakes). I ended up having to return it for a new one.

When they reman these calipers, I don't think they treat them nicely. It looks like something was dropped on it. Look really close at the casting where the crush washer goes to make sure it is smooth and undamaged.

- Mike
 

masho95

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So these crush washers are only supposed to be used once? If the brake hose is removed you are supposed to replace them everytime??
 

Ishodu

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masho95 said:
So these crush washers are only supposed to be used once? If the brake hose is removed you are supposed to replace them everytime??
Yes replace both of them each time you remove a brake line from a caliper. There only cheap
 

pjtoledo

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masho95 said:
So these crush washers are only supposed to be used once? If the brake hose is removed you are supposed to replace them everytime??


Absolutely. The caliper, hose, and bolt surfaces have rings on them that the crush washer mushes down into to make a seal. When you re-use a crush washer the old grooves in the washer become channels for leaks.


Perry
 

masho95

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I remember looking at the old crush washers and there were concentric circles on both sides of them, but the new crush washers that came with the caliper were smooth on both sides. Anyone know if they are supposed to be like that or does torquing down on the banjo bolt make those imprints in them??

On a relate note my brake pedal seems alot softer now. Not sure if it's been like that for a while or something recent since all my brake work, but the pedal SEEMS to go almost to the floor, compared to before, before it really starts braking. Maybe it's related to the slight fluid leak at the right rear caliper?? Well tomorrow I'm going to return my core for the caliper, get some new crush washers, and buy a left rear caliper. I think the left rear caliper spring pivot point is gunked up causing the ebrake to not fully release.
 

shopartsnw

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The new washers are smooth and when you compress them they get the concentric circles.

The soft pedal can absolutely be from the leak. Also, it could be from not getting the system fully bled.

Hope you get it sorted out soon, but it sounds like you are on the right track.

- Mike
 

masho95

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I don't really have a second person available to help me bleed the brakes, so I've been trying to use one of those one man bleeder kits. I pump the brakes with the bleeder screw open like 4-5 times and there doesn't seem to be any air in the fluid. So I pump the brakes and bleed that side and then go to the bleeder screw and close it up. I've already bled that side quite a few times now after all the brake work. Guess it's time to take care of that leak and go from there.
 

RStalveyARFF

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beware too, when I blew my rear hoses in W. Springfield last year, the Chicopee Cap's was the only place around that had the hoses. I was in uniform so I couldn't go in so I sent my dad into the shop. They tried telling my dad that it was a new design that didn't need washers.... HA! I sent his @$$ back in. :lol:
 

masho95

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Nope, I've gotten both rear calipers replaced now and I didn't use the crush washers they came with. They seemed kinda large and perhaps that was what was causing the leak on the right rear side. I bought 4 extra crush washers slightly thinner and used them, no leaks, and the brakes were completely bleed. The noise in the right rear seems to be gone after installing the new crush washers and extensive bleeding. But the pedal still doesn't seem right somehow. I don't know maybe it's the same and I don't remember that it was like that before. Time to drive it a little more. :)
 

Ace

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chances are that you still need to bleed it again...there is a very good chance that you may have a slight air pocket in there that is preventing you from getting a firmer pedal...a good way to tell is when you press the pedal listen to see if you hear what sounds like a little "****" of air when the pedal is depressed..sometime you do have to take care when installing the crush washers a lot of times the rebuiders just throw something in the box that they think will work..always double check them before you install them...and by all means DO NOT EVER reuse the old ones!!!!..glad it finally worked out well for you!!
 
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