While I agree with getting blank rotors for a street car but I do not regarding the cheapest you can find, especially for the 2010-12s. These are heavy cars with the 10-12s have marginal brakes we need all the high quality steel we can get.
Brakes, Brakes, Brakes...
- Thread starter Ohitsreggie
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
marius883
SHO Member
Agreed, if you go buy the OEM rotors, they will warp on you as soon as you step in them from higher speeds lol
SHOinVa
SHO Member
You know it is a scientific fact that drilled an slotted rotors disturb the air flow across the rotor in such a way that not only does it allow for shorter stopping distance but improves the over all performance of the car to include gas mileage. There you go you have now read it on the internet so it must be true.
C.
C.
Last edited:
RonPorter
SHO Club of America
Nope.
These cars aren't unique, and rotors are not the issue. Folks tried to use that same argument with the original 10.2" brakes on the original SHOs. Rotors don't warp, brake pads overheat/melt and leave irregular deposits on the rotors.
With better pads, braking improves, and nothing that rotors can do unless you have better pads.
A few years ago, I had a stock white 89 SHO, with all stock rotor sizes. With Carbotech XP pads, on my usual cheap rotors, I ran VIR and BIR with zero brake issues of any kind. SHO track guys learned many years ago what mattered.
RonPorter
SHO Club of America
Again nope.
They aren't warped, if they weren't grooved, you could have them cleaned up. But, if you put on the same pads, the issue will happen again. Truly warped rotors virtually never happen on street or race cars.
I just replaced my pads back in August 2008, with the Ebc yellow stuff pads, while I hate the dust, I love the stopping power. It seems I have already went through the front set of yellow stuff( wow only 7 months?) So I am looking for a suggestion for pads that have the stopping power of yellow stuff, that may last longer than 7 months
(and if possible less dust). I have scrolled through the post but there is like 90 pages on this post now and no real specifics on what you all would replace yellow stuff with, suggestions?
(and if possible less dust). I have scrolled through the post but there is like 90 pages on this post now and no real specifics on what you all would replace yellow stuff with, suggestions?
bpd1151
Lurking Around
Many have transitioned to the EBC Orange's, which came out well AFTER their Yellow's and have reported good or better results with them.
Give them a whirl.
I believe they are categorized as a 'SUV' type of pad offering.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Give them a whirl.
I believe they are categorized as a 'SUV' type of pad offering.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Sgtmeatsauce1
2013 SHO +pp
For the price and longevity the stock PP 13 pads are superb. I had reds(burned up) the yellow(lasted 14,000 miles and ate up my expensive rotors. Went back to above grade OEM NO holes or slots and PP pads. Honestly in hard DD I can hardly tell the difference. Stop on a dime, repeatively and 1/4 the price. Minimal brake dust too!
Sgtmeatsauce1
2013 SHO +pp
Rock Auto ....2016 pp Motorcraft pads will fit.
Have EBC OEM type rotors no holes or slots.
I check my old box see what I got....
Have EBC OEM type rotors no holes or slots.
I check my old box see what I got....
Sgtmeatsauce1
2013 SHO +pp
MOTORCRAFT BRF1475 Brake Pad $ 34.79 $
klrsmith
New Member
FWIW, I went with Power Stop Z37 Top Cop pads and Stop Tech cryo slotted rotors while I had things torn down to replace all 4 wheel hubs last year. I'd say my style of driving is "aggressive" and this upgrade over stock has been well worth the time and 3 stitches I had to get on my right thumb (freaking dust shields...) 
Stoptech Cryostop Rear Left- (126.65137CSL)
Stoptech Cryostop Rear Right- (126.65137CSR)
Stoptech Cryostop Front Right- (126.65136CSR)
Stoptech Cryostop Front Left- (126.65136CSL)
POWER STOP Z371612 (Z37-1612) x2
POWER STOP Z371611 (Z37-1611) x2
TIMKEN HA590478 x2
TIMKEN HA590261 x2
Stoptech Cryostop Rear Left- (126.65137CSL)
Stoptech Cryostop Rear Right- (126.65137CSR)
Stoptech Cryostop Front Right- (126.65136CSR)
Stoptech Cryostop Front Left- (126.65136CSL)
POWER STOP Z371612 (Z37-1612) x2
POWER STOP Z371611 (Z37-1611) x2
TIMKEN HA590478 x2
TIMKEN HA590261 x2
RonPorter
SHO Club of America
I had to look up EBC brakes again, as I can never keep the colors straight after the Yellowstuff!
https://ebcbrakes.com/products/brake-pads/
It appears that the Blue pads are the next step up after Yellow, and if you read the link for the Blue, they are described as such. Orange appear to be the next step above the Blue.
As was stated in these descriptions, there are elevated noise and dust levels. That's just the trade-off for good braking. It's possible that the dust from these is not as dark as the dust from my beloved Carbotechs, and hopefully is as non-corrosive as the Carbotech dust. The only really corrosive dust I've found is from Hawk Blues.
merp
New Member
I have a bit of experience with the Yellows and Blues on a no-longer-mine 2003 Cobra. The Yellows have a great initial bite and work at all temps including below freezing, and only fade a little once they're hot, but stay grippy enough for track use. Blues, OTOH, have _zero_ bite until they're hot, and fade less than the Yellows, but if you've been cruising for a while and the brakes cool off? Your next stop will have 1/4 to 1/2 second where the pads do about zilch, followed by a HUGE grab and they haul the car down with surprising force. I don't recommend them for daily/street use, unless EBC's changed the formulation.
I've not used the Oranges, so I can't speak to how well they grab when cold, but it sounds like they have the initial bite of the Yellow, but with the better high-temp performance of the Blue. When I need brakes, I'll probably give them a whirl.
Similar threads
