Belt Tensioners

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Larry Rivelli

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Hello,

My 1994 3.2 SHO's belt tensioners are making quite a bit of noise. My shop has told me new replacements are not available. Does anyone know of an acceptable substitute that will interchange with the originals or any other solution to this issue? Thank you in advance.
PS: I'm 73 years old so almost all of the work on the car is done at the shop. I've had it since Jun e of 02 and hope it will last as long as I do.
 

sperold

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Try SHOsource as a supplier for the idler pulley.

Then try RockAuto.

Over the years, people have come up with facsimiles that were close enough to use, and reported them on this forum.

If you search on this forum, there have been a number of bearings suggested as replacements, over the years. They would require you to press out the old bearing and press - in this replacement.

Other people have repacked the bearing with new improved grease and gotten satisfactory results. It is a process like they used to do for wheel bearings, back in the day.

If the search on this forum is intimidating, have anyone around 20 years of age do it for you.

If you happen to buy a new one, keep the old one to repack as a spare.
 

luigisho

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The 3.2 has 1 accessory belt if I remember correctly vs 2 for the manual cars. Is that correct anybody? I only have owned manual cars in GenI&II.
Is the noise coming from the accessory belt tensioner or the timing belt tensioner or could the idler pulley (non adjustable pulley to keep the belt on its path) be making noise? There are different variants of answer depending on which is the issue.
I agree with sperold above with contacting SHOsource but you will need a specific part pinpointed to get a specific remedy. Post back with info when you can. There are other avenues for used parts or new parts that can substitute etc., but specifics are important for others to get you what you need.
 

zoomlater

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The 3.2 has 1 accessory belt if I remember correctly vs 2 for the manual cars. Is that correct anybody? I only have owned manual cars in GenI&II.
Is the noise coming from the accessory belt tensioner or the timing belt tensioner or could the idler pulley (non adjustable pulley to keep the belt on its path) be making noise? There are different variants of answer depending on which is the issue.
I agree with sperold above with contacting SHOsource but you will need a specific part pinpointed to get a specific remedy. Post back with info when you can. There are other avenues for used parts or new parts that can substitute etc., but specifics are important for others to get you what you need.
3.2 ATX is one belt, Shosource
 

NoSlo

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There are three belt idler pulleys.

6gkBDC3
(ignore the red line)

#3 and #9 are the same, but 9 mounts on the tensioner which is the right size, while 3 has a reusable spacer that fits inside the pulley.

#7 is quite different, uses a different bearing.

To remove the belt, you "tighten" the bolt on #9 with a rachet and extension pipe, after removing the battery and tray and unbolting steering reservoir to get enough room. This pivots the tensioner, so you can slip the belt off at the alternator. It can be done on the street if you have a sunny day.

The noise can be tricky to track, and I even had hard-to-diagnose noise from a slipping belt the wrong size. One diagnosis trick that might silence a pulley temporarily is to squirt some thin penetrating lubricant through a long stiff hose behind the pulley bolt into the bearing. Also, a lavalier microphone on a coathanger to listen, if not a mechanic stethoscope.

There's also two timing belt pulleys behind the accessory belt and timing cover. See that the engine is quiet with the accessory belt taken off.

I have extras of all if you are in need of one. I'll bet I could drive there and put one in in your garage for less than a mechanic who's never seen a SHO.
 
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Mike Spataro

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I have had great success finding the noisy bearing in the tensioner using a stethoscope which can be found on eBay or a pep boys if there is one nearby. You need to be careful using it but a great tool for under 10 bucks.
Mike
 

tompumped

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I can't remember now but I think I bought gm pulleys and welded washers on the spacer that came with that gm pulley to give me the correct pulley alignment.

Every once in a while there are new bearings that are for sale on ebay. Last year I found a bearing supplier in China of all places that got me 4 nsk made in japan bearings. You can also get chinese bearings that are made to these dimensions. NSK still makes the correct bearing for this tensioner then again i've only owned manual transmission sho's. The part number has changed though.

I also found out shosource has them also.

Disconnecting the belt and running the engine can help with diagnosis.
 
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hi there- was going to suggest a couple of the things already suggested - glad to see the SHO community chipping in with help. great !
 

sperold

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If it really is the tensioner pulley, it is Dorman #41961 that is available from Rockauto for $9.00 or available from your local parts store by order, if not in stock.
 

NoSlo

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If it really is the tensioner pulley, it is Dorman #41961 that is available from Rockauto for $9.00 or available from your local parts store by order, if not in stock.

That would be nice, but alas, no. We would have figured out if the tensioner idler was the same as many other cars. Shosource wouldn't be rebuilding them for $120, probably with the fast-wearing Polar Bear bearing pointed out in the sticky.

Dorman (with model printed on it):
FxIULDD

The SHO ATX:
LRGQK1D

The full tensioner F3DZ6B209A that Dorman is for, mis-listed by even Ford dealers online as being for the 3.2 SHO:

WK15080 2

The correct idler pulley part F3DZ-6B217-B has been discontinued for a very long time. The NSK Japan-made bearing BD20-15DWA (part BD20-15T12DDWACG28) also, with 20mm ID x 37mm OD x 15mm Width.
 
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tompumped

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This post applies to MTX tensioners, but maybe the same can be done if someone needed something right away to get their car on the road. Ive never worked on an atx tensioner so this post might be irrelevant but apparently they use the same bearing.

Ive used the gm? tensioner pulleys with made in japan ntn/nsk? bearings and had good luck. Many do come with chinese junk bearings so be careful. All these years i never thought about something as simple as welding washers to the spacer that comes with the new pulley to space the pulley out. Its been a while since i did it, but iirc i had to drill the spacer as well before I welded the washers to it. I couldve done it without welding probably. When i have time ill find the part number i used.


I got a real good deal on nsk bearings thats the only reason ill go back eventually. 15 dollars a piece and they are legit. There are reputable longstanding bearing houses in china, but they are few and far between. Iirc the bd2015dwa nsk bearings are a deep v radial groove which makes them stronger but I could be wrong. Im not sure if some/all tensioner bearings are.
 

Ty Talkington

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There are three belt idler pulleys.

6gkBDC3
(ignore the red line)

#3 and #9 are the same, but 9 mounts on the tensioner which is the right size, while 3 has a reusable spacer that fits inside the pulley.

#7 is quite different, uses a different bearing.

To remove the belt, you "tighten" the bolt on #9 with a rachet and extension pipe, after removing the battery and tray and unbolting steering reservoir to get enough room. This pivots the tensioner, so you can slip the belt off at the alternator. It can be done on the street if you have a sunny day.

The noise can be tricky to track, and I even had hard-to-diagnose noise from a slipping belt the wrong size. One diagnosis trick that might silence a pulley temporarily is to squirt some thin penetrating lubricant through a long stiff hose behind the pulley bolt into the bearing. Also, a lavalier microphone on a coathanger to listen, if not a mechanic stethoscope.

There's also two timing belt pulleys behind the accessory belt and timing cover. See that the engine is quiet with the accessory belt taken off.

I have extras of all if you are in need of one. I'll bet I could drive there and put one in in your garage for less than a mechanic who's never seen a SHO.
Where can I purchase pully #7? It’s the Bering pully. Help please
 

Ty Talkington

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There are three belt idler pulleys.

6gkBDC3
(ignore the red line)

#3 and #9 are the same, but 9 mounts on the tensioner which is the right size, while 3 has a reusable spacer that fits inside the pulley.

#7 is quite different, uses a different bearing.

To remove the belt, you "tighten" the bolt on #9 with a rachet and extension pipe, after removing the battery and tray and unbolting steering reservoir to get enough room. This pivots the tensioner, so you can slip the belt off at the alternator. It can be done on the street if you have a sunny day.

The noise can be tricky to track, and I even had hard-to-diagnose noise from a slipping belt the wrong size. One diagnosis trick that might silence a pulley temporarily is to squirt some thin penetrating lubricant through a long stiff hose behind the pulley bolt into the bearing. Also, a lavalier microphone on a coathanger to listen, if not a mechanic stethoscope.

There's also two timing belt pulleys behind the accessory belt and timing cover. See that the engine is quiet with the accessory belt taken off.

I have extras of all if you are in need of one. I'll bet I could drive there and put one in in your garage for less than a mechanic who's never seen a SHO.
I need pully#7 can you help me?
 

luigisho

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Use the conversations function to send NoSlo a private message directly through the board.

Go to the inbox (between your screen name and alerts tabs upper right of the page) and it will drop down. Click on start a conversation. Put NoSlo in the participants line and send the message. It alerts that there is a message in personal email that you use when you sign up for the forum. Very handy.
 

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