bad shifting after driving for awile

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"SHO"time

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after driving for awile my car starts shifting bad. then when i shut the car off for awile it will drive normal until the car gets hot.somebody told me the solenoids in the trans .i dont know much about it but if anybody can give any ideas that would help me.
 

Axianator

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What exactly do you mean when you say that your tranny is "shifting bad"? Are you saying that shifts are softer until you restart the engine, is it missing gears, popping into neutral. Diagnosis would be easier if we could get some additional details.
 

"SHO"time

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my fault

rpms rev high then shift. it acts like it doesnt want to shift gears but will really late .only when driven for awile.its drives normal when the car is cold
 

redshoman

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I would suggest testing line pressure before tearing into anything thats a good way to gage what components are doing what. Start simple even if it takes twice as long then you have a base, and more data is better. Pay paticular attenetion to what it does inbetween gears....a.k.a. long pauses, revs up, shutters..ect.. Also note what it does in each dear, there should be four total and you may feel converter lock up if it is not correctly modulated
 

Axianator

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SHORANGERBIRD said:
-sounds like the clutch plats are burnt up. they grab good when cold, but when they get hot, cant hold. refurbish time.
While this scenario is certainly possible, it may not be applicable in this particular case. On the '93-'95 ATX SHOs, the EEC utilizes a cold start shift multiplier for a specific amount of time to increase the commanded line pressure over the otherwise-normal values. This feature was originally designed to prevent fluid drain-back and allow proper shift feel under cold TFT/TOTs (Transmission Fluid Temperatures). On a well-worn and aged transmission, this factory programming could well explain the symptoms that "SHO"time has described.

redshoman said:
I would suggest testing line pressure before tearing into anything thats a good way to gage what components are doing what. Start simple even if it takes twice as long then you have a base, and more data is better. Pay paticular attenetion to what it does inbetween gears....a.k.a. long pauses, revs up, shutters..ect.. Also note what it does in each dear, there should be four total and you may feel converter lock up if it is not correctly modulated
Sound advice, which I would like to echo. If you should require any diagnostic procedures or information, "SHO"time, let us know and either Steve, Paul, or myself will post up the proper factory procedures for you.
 

sho'd

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i've been following this post, as i don't have enough cash to get a FPS tranny yet, anyhow was wondering how does one test the line pressure, at the tranny cooling lines? i am totally ingnorant when it comes to transmissions. thans
ks
 

Axianator

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sho'd said:
i've been following this post, as i don't have enough cash to get a FPS tranny yet, anyhow was wondering how does one test the line pressure, at the tranny cooling lines? i am totally ingnorant when it comes to transmissions. thans
ks
Since I don't immediate access to the necessary diagnostic procedures, I will defer to Paul for that information.
 

shomesomesho

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more rubber, more HP.....
[QUOTE="SHO"time]rpms rev high then shift. it acts like it doesnt want to shift gears but will really late .only when driven for awile.its drives normal when the car is cold[/QUOTE]

The '94 ATX I no longer own used to do that during the 1st-->2nd gear shift. When the tranny was warmed up, I would have to rev it all the way up to the rev limiter to make it shift into 2nd.

When the tranny was not all the way warm, I would have to let off the gas to make it shift 1st-->2nd gear, like driving a stick shift almost.
 

projectSHO89

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sho'd said:
i've been following this post, as i don't have enough cash to get a FPS tranny yet, anyhow was wondering how does one test the line pressure, at the tranny cooling lines? i am totally ingnorant when it comes to transmissions. thans
ks

There are specific taps in the transmission case housing that have a bolt-like plugs installed in them. The plug is removed and the oil pressure guage is installed in its place. The transmission is then tested by exactly following the steps in the diagnostic procedures and recording the readings. The data is then analyzed to come up with a logical understanding of what is and is not working from a hydraulic and mechanical standpoint.

If you don't have the service cd yet, get it from www.fordcds.com or ebay or wherever.

I bought the guage from my local O'Reilley's (special order) for about $35.

Steve
 

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