ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
so its ether deal with a rattling cat (if thats it) or gut it and tune it out>?
bad day.. sho hates me again..**anyhelp**
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so its ether deal with a rattling cat (if thats it) or gut it and tune it out>?
loosenut
SHO Member
You can replace them if you want to. They are not as exspensive as they used to be. Once you know if and which kind it is you can have one welded in. Mine had ceramic like material in it. It looked like baked pottery with no glaze on it. Looking from one end it looked like a bunch of square shafts from end to end, thousands of them. Back then GM used marble like material in theirs. Mine got broken from the dealership throwing the exhuast pipes on the shop floor, so they are fragile.
I think Magnaflow makes or is in a partnership with a company that makes converters. Check their site.
Goodluck.
I think Magnaflow makes or is in a partnership with a company that makes converters. Check their site.
Goodluck.
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
this would be the last thing i would do i would cut the old ones out and weld piping in b4 this lol
SHODWN
Mother Threasa
I personally shim mine that tight so thats not it.
From the sound of the video it sounds like a rod bearing, it could be other things.. as already removed the belt so thats good.. I guess it could be the TQ con bolts..
Next question.. is it welded? and who welded it? there are lots of ****** procudures that have led to crank bearing failure.
why 4 motors? hiw much do you have invested in ths car?
From the sound of the video it sounds like a rod bearing, it could be other things.. as already removed the belt so thats good.. I guess it could be the TQ con bolts..
Next question.. is it welded? and who welded it? there are lots of ****** procudures that have led to crank bearing failure.
why 4 motors? hiw much do you have invested in ths car?
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
I am curious about assembly **** on the crank when you first fired it up. My v-6 block was wrapped up pretty good, and soaked in oil still. Had plenty of assy **** on the main's and rod bearings. I checked all of mine to verify it was all there.
I am also curious how you broke it in. Sometimes that can make a difference from what I've read on engine brake-in periods when I was searching online. For me it was a little easier being a stick and I drove it to an open road.
I let mine warm up, then put it in first, drove it fairly slow, but definately steady up to 7300, then let the engine "brake" it back down near idle. Did that 3 times, then changed the oil hot. Dumped a gallon or two of some cheap oil thru it to semi-flush it. Then filled it up with some "real oil" for the first 5k miles. Changed it at 500 w/ filter. Changed filter again at 1000 topped off with oil. Then at 2500, then 5000. Now I'm back to my Mobil 1 and she's lovin it.
Being you got a v8 block it *should be a lot newer, and I would imagine the **** from the factory would have a less of a chance for it to dry out.
Maybe run your codes... **** a knock sensor could have gone out.. hard telling. Did you check for codes yet? Its a v8 and an EGR auto.. 2 things I don't know a lot about. Just guessing here. Good luck tho!
*check the trunk for gremlins too..
I am also curious how you broke it in. Sometimes that can make a difference from what I've read on engine brake-in periods when I was searching online. For me it was a little easier being a stick and I drove it to an open road.
I let mine warm up, then put it in first, drove it fairly slow, but definately steady up to 7300, then let the engine "brake" it back down near idle. Did that 3 times, then changed the oil hot. Dumped a gallon or two of some cheap oil thru it to semi-flush it. Then filled it up with some "real oil" for the first 5k miles. Changed it at 500 w/ filter. Changed filter again at 1000 topped off with oil. Then at 2500, then 5000. Now I'm back to my Mobil 1 and she's lovin it.
Being you got a v8 block it *should be a lot newer, and I would imagine the **** from the factory would have a less of a chance for it to dry out.
Maybe run your codes... **** a knock sensor could have gone out.. hard telling. Did you check for codes yet? Its a v8 and an EGR auto.. 2 things I don't know a lot about. Just guessing here. Good luck tho!
*check the trunk for gremlins too..
Last edited:
ThatShoGuy
SHO Member
I am curious about assembly **** on the crank when you first fired it up. My v-6 block was wrapped up pretty good, and soaked in oil still. Had plenty of assy **** on the main's and rod bearings. I checked all of mine to verify it was all there.
I am also curious how you broke it in. Sometimes that can make a difference from what I've read on engine brake-in periods when I was searching online. For me it was a little easier being a stick and I drove it to an open road.
I let mine warm up, then put it in first, drove it fairly slow, but definately steady up to 7300, then let the engine "brake" it back down near idle. Did that 3 times, then changed the oil hot. Dumped a gallon or two of some cheap oil thru it to semi-flush it. Then filled it up with some "real oil" for the first 5k miles. Changed it at 500 w/ filter. Changed filter again at 1000 topped off with oil. Then at 2500, then 5000. Now I'm back to my Mobil 1 and she's lovin it.
Being you got a v8 block it *should be a lot newer, and I would imagine the **** from the factory would have a less of a chance for it to dry out.
Maybe run your codes... **** a knock sensor could have gone out.. hard telling. Did you check for codes yet? Its a v8 and an EGR auto.. 2 things I don't know a lot about. Just guessing here. Good luck tho!
*check the trunk for gremlins too..
thanks for the replay man lots of questions lol no prob tho..
idk about the assembly ****, i didnt check i figured that part was good..
this is really the 3rd motor
1st cam failed and then spun a bearing on the next 3k miles after that failed...
2nd was a cam failed motor i bought off midnight auto. 91k on it lasted 5k kind of got a little hot(didnt over heat tho) on my way back from the dream cruise i beat the crap out of it and spun a bearing a broke it(i didnt care at that point)..
this is now the 3rd motor nos short block with rebuilt heads that had 4k on them seen 2 other motors...
i didnt really brake the motor in to say. this is what i did.. i bought the oil filter(cheap stuff) ran the motor for 500miles didnt drive it hard nothing just normal drivin.. drained that oil out. put in some good stuff(i dont use synthetic) ran that for 1500miles drained it, refilled ran that 3k miles drained it and now im on oil that has good 800miles all oil was as clean as it came out the bottle.
i know it sounds like rod knock i checked all the rods. didnt pulled the bolts but i wiggled the rods and every one was tight as crap.
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
I wish I knew more about those motors. I was just thinking along the lines of the rotating assembly's being similar. Good luck finding it tho. Probally and usually something trival.
SHODWN
Mother Threasa
Im locking this after.
1. Head gaskets are available.. Dont beleive what people tell you! under the parts section it clearly states to check with the supporting vendors first! if you had done that you would know that two of us have all of the gaskets, and all of the bolts.
2. People are instructed on how to weld with cleaning the cams inside the motor with oil and chemicals still in the motor.... well when you add brake kleen into the motor and the oil is still in the motor the Kleen will rise to the top of the oil and get into the bearings.. Yes I cant beleive it either! to me this explains your second motor failure.. cant say for sure but I see PLENTY that die this way.
3. welding without gas.. (gasless wire) this introduces a 1000 time more SLAG into the motor and thats bad! this left in the motor is only going to wreck it! we shouldnt be welding anyway in a motor but if your going to wouldnt you want the cleaner weld you can get?? dont beleive me? go ask anyone who welds for a living and get your answer.
4. just because the cams are moving dont mean squat! take the covers off and LOOK at each weld to make sure it did not break apart and chunks are missing that may have got into a bearing.
5. New motors.. these have been sitting around for ever! These were first brought to my attention in 2003.. A guy called me from Texas and wanted me to buy them all for a discounted price.. Im sure I know of one other guy that got the same call.. Who knows how they have been stored or treated? They could have been outside and open to the air. again imagine the worst case scenario.. I never did because I counted the gaskets and bolts vs blocks and the number did not match.. not even close!!! so as I would have had to buy them all I would have been sitting on motors that I could never use!
6. I sell used/refreshed motors, I have sold and installed 212 motors for 3000.00 and have 1 fail on me.. It was one that I delivered to Ohio for someone else to install which if you read my site I advise against this! as I sell them for the same price installed or not.. This motor after going back and forth with the owner and after the court was threatened I offered to pay for it under certain guide lines. the disasembly had to be taped, it was and they pulled a bolt from the motor! bent a valve! I had them send me the bolt and low and behold it was a 1/4-20 bolt.. well these are not used on these motors and I was released from any claim! there is not a single standard thread bolt in my shop..
Check the welds! each one. One by one
Check the shims.
its either a rod bearing, or a timing tentioner.. Just delt with a guy that had a tentoiner break down.. the main slack adjuster, (well the only one) had poped the cap off of the tentioner. causing slack in the chain and a weird noise..different sound than yours but listening to things over phones and internet video dont help really. they never sound right.. Also I have been selling other timing componets as they seem to be in high demand.. personally I have not seen this. and always put up a fight with the customer when it comes to this. maybe its becoming more normal now?
break in procedure is what you like.. same as every other motor.. We install the bearings with assembly ****, start the motor and let it sit idleing for 15mins.. drop the oil and refill. then to 7000k it goes. break it or break it in!
Paul, is one of the most knowlegable people when it comes to this, if you can head there then I would. I can also make a time to listen to it, but I dont know when the next time I will be coming through, about twice a month accross 80, so would have to meet at the 280/80 interchange.. Also Bizzy lives in the same state and she could listen to it as well.
You also might want to sign up at the www.V8SHO.INFO list, and ask there.. there are a few people that are just motor heads! and might give you a better diag. Most lists are redundant with people but you might get someone that lives closer to listen or a different and better answer. go to www.v8sho.info and go to the bottom of the page, there is a link to sign up.
1. Head gaskets are available.. Dont beleive what people tell you! under the parts section it clearly states to check with the supporting vendors first! if you had done that you would know that two of us have all of the gaskets, and all of the bolts.
2. People are instructed on how to weld with cleaning the cams inside the motor with oil and chemicals still in the motor.... well when you add brake kleen into the motor and the oil is still in the motor the Kleen will rise to the top of the oil and get into the bearings.. Yes I cant beleive it either! to me this explains your second motor failure.. cant say for sure but I see PLENTY that die this way.
3. welding without gas.. (gasless wire) this introduces a 1000 time more SLAG into the motor and thats bad! this left in the motor is only going to wreck it! we shouldnt be welding anyway in a motor but if your going to wouldnt you want the cleaner weld you can get?? dont beleive me? go ask anyone who welds for a living and get your answer.
4. just because the cams are moving dont mean squat! take the covers off and LOOK at each weld to make sure it did not break apart and chunks are missing that may have got into a bearing.
5. New motors.. these have been sitting around for ever! These were first brought to my attention in 2003.. A guy called me from Texas and wanted me to buy them all for a discounted price.. Im sure I know of one other guy that got the same call.. Who knows how they have been stored or treated? They could have been outside and open to the air. again imagine the worst case scenario.. I never did because I counted the gaskets and bolts vs blocks and the number did not match.. not even close!!! so as I would have had to buy them all I would have been sitting on motors that I could never use!
6. I sell used/refreshed motors, I have sold and installed 212 motors for 3000.00 and have 1 fail on me.. It was one that I delivered to Ohio for someone else to install which if you read my site I advise against this! as I sell them for the same price installed or not.. This motor after going back and forth with the owner and after the court was threatened I offered to pay for it under certain guide lines. the disasembly had to be taped, it was and they pulled a bolt from the motor! bent a valve! I had them send me the bolt and low and behold it was a 1/4-20 bolt.. well these are not used on these motors and I was released from any claim! there is not a single standard thread bolt in my shop..
Check the welds! each one. One by one
Check the shims.
its either a rod bearing, or a timing tentioner.. Just delt with a guy that had a tentoiner break down.. the main slack adjuster, (well the only one) had poped the cap off of the tentioner. causing slack in the chain and a weird noise..different sound than yours but listening to things over phones and internet video dont help really. they never sound right.. Also I have been selling other timing componets as they seem to be in high demand.. personally I have not seen this. and always put up a fight with the customer when it comes to this. maybe its becoming more normal now?
break in procedure is what you like.. same as every other motor.. We install the bearings with assembly ****, start the motor and let it sit idleing for 15mins.. drop the oil and refill. then to 7000k it goes. break it or break it in!
Paul, is one of the most knowlegable people when it comes to this, if you can head there then I would. I can also make a time to listen to it, but I dont know when the next time I will be coming through, about twice a month accross 80, so would have to meet at the 280/80 interchange.. Also Bizzy lives in the same state and she could listen to it as well.
You also might want to sign up at the www.V8SHO.INFO list, and ask there.. there are a few people that are just motor heads! and might give you a better diag. Most lists are redundant with people but you might get someone that lives closer to listen or a different and better answer. go to www.v8sho.info and go to the bottom of the page, there is a link to sign up.
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