bad day.. sho hates me again..**anyhelp**

[ThatShoGuy]

What bearing are you talking about?

if it happen to be a rod bearing think i could replace it and be good???

thanks shoz123

 

[tardboy21]

only thing i haven't checked is the tq converter nuts but whats my chances..

better than that of rod bearings or main bearings. People attend to assume the worst, had some noise from my motor a couple months ago, feared rod bearings perhaps, checked it out further and was just the water pump bearing. Those accessory bearings like to go, and with dropping a new block in, my bets are your chances are better you didn't completely tighten something.

 

[SHOZ123]

You need to figure out why a rod bearing failed on a new block if that is what happened before going any further.

 

[ThatShoGuy]

better than that of rod bearings or main bearings. People attend to assume the worst, had some noise from my motor a couple months ago, feared rod bearings perhaps, checked it out further and was just the water pump bearing. Those accessory bearings like to go, and with dropping a new block in, my bets are your chances are better you didn't completely tighten something.

thanks for your input all i know is i will find out once it breaks or i get the pan off..

You need to figure out why a rod bearing failed on a new block if that is what happened before going any further.

i dont know why i do know it had a oil pump that was newer installed with about 3k in miles on it.. so i know that cant be bad... well i hope..
what would you suggest for a way to find out???
im pullin the oil pan.. gonna find out for sure if it is or not.. it just dont seem like a rod bearing... but then again it does.. i been drivin it for a week now and it aint no louder nor quieter...

the weird thing is that soon as the motor hits 2500rpms the knock is gone.. and its not there every time i start it.. and its not there all the time at idle..

wonder if a lifter collapsed or something like ... idk guess i know tomorrow for sure if its a loose rod.. all i know is once its fix the sign is gonna be hanging

 

[SHOZ123]

You may have a bad shim. I doubt if a rod bearing failed. And the rod bolts are suppose to be a one time use only thing as they are TTY bolts but I have reused them.

Is the sound there after the car has warmed up?

 

[ThatShoGuy]

You may have a bad shim. I doubt if a rod bearing failed. And the rod bolts are suppose to be a one time use only thing as they are TTY bolts but I have reused them.

Is the sound there after the car has warmed up?

its there b4 after just give it 5 or so mins and it will start makin the sound..

i can come out to a cold or hot car and start it up after it sits and it will not make the noise i can drive about a mile and the sound starts to appear i have noticed if the car is still warm it will appear a little soon... but not always..

i know you were tellin me about how when removin heads from one block to another and that something to do with the shims needed checked... these heads have about 10k on there rebuild and this is there 3rd motor since.. all the motors were rod knocks after the rebuild.. idk what to do but pull the pan and check the bearings if it aint them i know for sure know..

thanks for the help like always

 

[bacernate]

Did you check the tc bolts yet!!!!

 

[ThatShoGuy]

Did you check the tc bolts yet!!!!

that might be first when i jack it up to remove the oil pan like i did say thats the only thing i haven't checked !!!!!

 

[SHOZ123]

You can take the starter off and peek in too.

 

[SHOZ123]

its there b4 after just give it 5 or so mins and it will start makin the sound..

i can come out to a cold or hot car and start it up after it sits and it will not make the noise i can drive about a mile and the sound starts to appear i have noticed if the car is still warm it will appear a little soon... but not always..

i know you were tellin me about how when removin heads from one block to another and that something to do with the shims needed checked... these heads have about 10k on there rebuild and this is there 3rd motor since.. all the motors were rod knocks after the rebuild.. idk what to do but pull the pan and check the bearings if it aint them i know for sure know..

thanks for the help like always

For sure the shims need checked. When I swapped my heads onto the new block some of the clearances were down to .01"

 

[ThatShoGuy]

For sure the shims need checked. When I swapped my heads onto the new block some of the clearances were down to .01"

do you have any kind of walk thru on how to check um??? and how to adjust them???

 

[HotRodKid]

s*** im on use head gaskets and bolts as it is..(btw no coolant in oil or anything like that)

WHAT ? WHAT ? does that say "used head gaskets" ?

 

[ThatShoGuy]

WHAT ? WHAT ? does that say "used head gaskets" ?

um yes were have you been they can be gotten anymore!!!!!!!

used but were new a year b4 installed on this motor!!!!

 

[HotRodKid]

i cant beleive you v8 guys get away with reusing head gaskets, thats like the one gasket that cant ever be reused no matter how good it still looks.

rtv fixes everything, except head gaskets, lol

 

[ThatShoGuy]

i cant beleive you v8 guys get away with reusing head gaskets, thats like the one gasket that cant ever be reused no matter how good it still looks.

rtv fixes everything, except head gaskets, lol

i cant believe its still goin also or leakin... but every one said dont do it and all.. i said f it i need this car to run.. had all the stuff but couldnt buy the gaskets..

read over this, its kind of the details of my project with these used gaskets and bolts....
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=89992&highlight=head+gaskets

the car has about 6k on the motor now.. and still kickin till now.... were see what happens..

 

[ThatShoGuy]

this is this morning when i started it i let it run for 20min and warm up till it started to knock and then i stopped it..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd3PB6X2PCA

 

[SHOZ123]

It's easy to check the clearance of the valves. Take off the intake and valve covers. Then with a good set of feeler gages. Just turn the cams (there's a big hex on each) until the cam lobe is 180 degrees from the shim. Then measure the clearance. You can also bump the starter to turn the cams using a simple jumper wire at the engine fuse box.

Specs are valve clearance intake (cold): 0.15-0.25 mm (0.006-0.010 inch)
valve clearance exhaust (cold): 0.25-0.35 mm (0.010-0.014 inch)

Now to adjust them is a bit more complicated. You need a special tappet compressor which is the same as used on the V6s and a special tappet holder which is unique to the V8. The hardest part is getting the tappet bucket holder in the exact place. It needs to be just on the raised edge of the tappet bucket so that the shim is not compressed. Then there is a small hole on the shim. That needs to be rotated so that you can direct a small concentrated stream of compressed air into it. If you can not easily rotate the shim the tappet holder is resting on the edge of the shim and not completely off it and on the actual edge of the tappet bucket. Then the shim pops out.

A small 45 degree pick and some sort of reducer for the common air blow gun are needed. A magnet is also good to pull the shim out with.


How to check clearance....



The tappet compressor.....




The tappet bucket holder....




Removing the shim.....



Tools needed....



Blow gun adapter....



How to bump the starter....

 

[ThatShoGuy]

wow thats alot of checkin.. looks hard to do??? also assuming i need thos tools to adjust them right??

also pulled the belt off the water pump and the sound seems to go away but i couldnt run it long it shot coolant out the degasser tank ?? so i really didnt get to test it much???

also check the tq converter nuts then werent loose but i could put a little more turn on them.. sound is so inconsistent i cant tell if they were the prob and had came a little loose again.. idk..

 

[SHOZ123]

It's not hard to do just tedious. The hardest part is getting the tappet holder in the correct position.

I can guarantee that if you did not adjust the valves when putting the heads on the new block that they are not within spec. This should be done soon before any damage results that would require the heads to have to come off again.

This would also coincide with the noise happening as the engine warms up. This will cause the valve clearance to reduce.

 

[ThatShoGuy]

so with the shim checkin.. do you think its related to the knock sound??

i can run the car in my driveway till it gets warm and it dont sound like there is a single prob.. onces its warm its there... shut the car off for 15min and its gone for a bit of time...

i can put the car in drive hold the brake pedal and give her some throttle get it up to 2-3k rpms and there still wont be a sound.. not even a tick..

this just dont make since to me

thanks shoz123