BaySHO Performance
SHO Member
Run these tests which include the camshaft sensor (CID):
Backfiring into intake, timing issue?
- Thread starter Dylpro
- Start date
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BaySHO Performance
SHO Member
Here are a couple of '94 ATX control diagrams which include the CANP solenoid:
do you mind listing brands of the replacement parts used so far?
most threads have listed some type of grounding issue with ignition system components as a culprit with backfiring into intake/ hard start / no start.
at least one noted water in the plugwells after an engine wash, so basically another electrical issue.
haven't seen egr listed as a root cause, but can't hurt to check/clean the dpfe and the egr "nostrils".
most threads have listed some type of grounding issue with ignition system components as a culprit with backfiring into intake/ hard start / no start.
at least one noted water in the plugwells after an engine wash, so basically another electrical issue.
haven't seen egr listed as a root cause, but can't hurt to check/clean the dpfe and the egr "nostrils".
The DPFE is brand new, if I’m not mistaken it was Walker. I’ll have to go back and check what the brands were for everything but here’s what’s off the top of my head
DPFE: Walker
Plugs: Motorcraft
Plug Wires: NGK
O2 Sensors: NTK
CPS: Delphi
CKP: SHO Source
Vapor Canister: Carquest
Those I believe are all the parts that would be anything related to my issues.
I haven’t tried anything with the EGR as of yet. I broke the green line that goes from the EGR to the solenoid and replaced it with some tubing of the same size, though I need to get another line as I cut this one a little short. My next step was going to be attempting to clean, if not then replace the EGR.
I work today but am going to try getting some testing and further investigations when I’m home and will report back
Also discovered last night that my CEL is burnt out, after wondering if any of these codes would cause it to come on, foolish of me not to check if it was coming on when turning the ignition from the start. Whether or not this was intentional by the seller at the time I suppose I’ll never know
BaySHO Performance
SHO Member
I've never known a malfunctioning EGR system to cause the symptoms described.
Test the EGR valve first if considering replacing it: take the small tube off the back of the EGR valve. Attach a tube of the same diameter to the valve and suck on it. You should hear the diaphragm in the valve opening and closing. Now, turn the engine on and do the same thing. If the nostrils are blocked, the engine revs will stay the same. If the revs go down, the nostrils are clear.
Take the throttle body off, and you will see four holes in the intake behind it. Top two for the IAB, Bottom two for the EGR. If these are blocked, typical codes point to EGR valve opening not detected, or insufficient EGR flow. Unblock the nostrils with carb cleaner and a pick.
Test the EGR valve first if considering replacing it: take the small tube off the back of the EGR valve. Attach a tube of the same diameter to the valve and suck on it. You should hear the diaphragm in the valve opening and closing. Now, turn the engine on and do the same thing. If the nostrils are blocked, the engine revs will stay the same. If the revs go down, the nostrils are clear.
Take the throttle body off, and you will see four holes in the intake behind it. Top two for the IAB, Bottom two for the EGR. If these are blocked, typical codes point to EGR valve opening not detected, or insufficient EGR flow. Unblock the nostrils with carb cleaner and a pick.
Writing this as I wait for the tow truck from AAA. Car started without issue today and decided to get gas about 5 minutes from my house. Go to start it after filling up and the starter won’t engage, walked the five minutes home to get a Jack and small hammer and next try it begins freewheeling nonstop. Pulled the negative cable as quickly as I could but it was stuck on for at least 10-20 seconds. Is my flexplate more than likely damaged from this?
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BaySHO Performance
SHO Member
If the starter was spinning freely it won't have engaged the flex plate and damaged it.
I just had to replace an MTX starter for this very reason: spinning freely without engaging the flywheel. Got progressively worse until I almost got stranded. The electromagnet has got too weak. A replacement is necessary.
I just had to replace an MTX starter for this very reason: spinning freely without engaging the flywheel. Got progressively worse until I almost got stranded. The electromagnet has got too weak. A replacement is necessary.
Yeah no grinding or any nasty noises aside from the freewheeling so hopefully caught a break then.
Starters less than 3 months old, this was also a remanned Carquest starter which I’d heard can be hit or miss with quality. Going to order a new starter, any recommendations? I was recommended BBB industries by my boss previously, going for new rather than reman this time as well
Starters less than 3 months old, this was also a remanned Carquest starter which I’d heard can be hit or miss with quality. Going to order a new starter, any recommendations? I was recommended BBB industries by my boss previously, going for new rather than reman this time as well
BaySHO Performance
SHO Member
You might try this one. I installed one in a client car 10 years ago. No reported problems:
Thanks for all the help so far everyone. I’m wondering if the issues I was experiencing with starting may have just been rooted in the failing starter, we’ll see once I get the new one on how it goes.
Decided to take this time to address the leaky oil pan gasket as well so won’t be up and running for at least a few more days anyway.
Debating on whether or not I should go ahead and do the rod bearings at this point as well. I see it’s something mentioned more for MTX cars but is it still worth doing for peace of minds sake? Car has a little over 135k on it
Decided to take this time to address the leaky oil pan gasket as well so won’t be up and running for at least a few more days anyway.
Debating on whether or not I should go ahead and do the rod bearings at this point as well. I see it’s something mentioned more for MTX cars but is it still worth doing for peace of minds sake? Car has a little over 135k on it
BaySHO Performance
SHO Member
How many miles on the car? If above 150K I would at least check them. Look at the top bearing which gets more wear than the bottom one. If copper is showing, replace them. Available from SHO Source.
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