Back window not going on *Update*

[gatzby143]

My drivers side back window will not go down. I tried both buttons(the drivers button and the back seat button). All the other windows go down no problem. I dont even hear a noise like it its trying to go down and stuck somehow, it does nothing at all. What possibly could it be and is it an expensive and difficult fix? If it helps I have a 93 ATX. Thanx

<small>[ March 23, 2003, 03:49 PM: Message edited by: gatzby143 ]</small>

 

[Angelo]

I have the same problem, if you put your car on the on position, at night with the lights on - hit the button, if the lights dont dim at all, then your motor is shot. If the lights dim, then the window is stuck somehow. My motor is shot.

 

[rangerj]

gadsby,

Remove the rear door panel, Unplug the motor and try to operate it with a car battery. If the motor works you have a connection, wire, or switch problem. If the motor does not work it needs to be replaced.

Easier yet, remove the rear switch and power the window directly with a battery using the wires from the switch. You need to refer to a wiring diagram for the positive up, down, and ground wires. If this works, again it is a switch problem, but which one, the rear, or the master switch?

Remove the front switch and attach a battery to the correct wires. Then try the rear switch. If it works, the rear switch and all the wire to it are OK. You can do the checking with a test light, volt meter, and/or a continuity tester.

I prefer to activate the motor so I know I'm testing the right circuit. You can also do some of these test with the key in the on position and jumper wires.

Again you need to refer to the wiring diagrams. Helm's manual gives a specific set of tests for the switches using a continuity tester. This also works. Hope this helps, rangerj

 

[gatzby143]

Thanx for the help guys. I hope its not the motor cuz I am sure thats a pretty expensive fix. That along with the A/C not working it seems like its gonna be an extremely warm summer for me. I seemed to always get screwed boink

 

[SHOsupercharged]

Well there is always the dealer that can handle the problems, but the lights dimming idea is good, and just try and see if the rollers are swollen, or just stuck...there are alot of hypothesis on what could be wrong, but just try them out...

 

[whlav]

I bought a new ford l/rear power window motor off ebay a couple of months back for $65.00. Installation is simple, just buy a pack of door panel push pins before hand and your all set. I think you need about 11 pins . I chose to use all new ones as the old ones will break easily on removal. Might as well grease up your window track while you are in there.

By the way, Ford wanted close to $300 for the motor and installation.

 

[gatzby143]

Well I took the door panel off and the window doesnt seem stuck and when I hit the window switches the lights dim a little and I hear a click that comes from inside the door. Does anyonw know what this possible means? Is the motor shot? Thanx

 

[rangerj]

gatzby,

Disconnect the wires to the motor and apply battery voltage to the motor. If it will not budge, it is most likely shot.

However, you want to be sure it is the motor, and not the window binding in the tracks. Check the window and the tracks very carefully. The dimming lights indicate that the motor is drawing a lot of amps. That also is a strong indication of a toasted motor.

Removing the motor is tricky. You have to drill out three large rivits, I think they are 1/4 inch. Check the service manual for the rest of the proceedure, or maybe someone else will be kind enough to post it.

I'm away from my manuals, and it has been a while since I messed with one of those. Sorry I can't be more help, rangerj

 

[DougLee25]

I've had great success with actually taking the window motors apart, putting a new surface on the commutator and brushes with some sandpaper, cleaning everything else up with some eletric motor cleaner, and throwing it back together. Maybe that could work for you.

Doug

 

[SilverSHO]

DougLee25:
I've had great success with actually taking the window motors apart, putting a new surface on the commutator and brushes with some sandpaper, cleaning everything else up with some eletric motor cleaner, and throwing it back together. Maybe that could work for you.

Doug

Since quite a few of us have cranky windows, could you do a write-up on how to do that? My port-side rear window is stuck down about an inch, and neither the driver's window switch nor the door switch will raise it.

whlav--where did you get the pins for the door panel?

 

[whlav]

Got the pins from AutoZone.Pack of 15 was about $5.00.

 

[30footSHO]

I have the same problem happening with my passenger rear window, except it is stuck in the down position Is there any way to get the window up and keep it there? I'm getting a little cold, and the plastic covering my door is really, really annoying.

Also, I may be a real big *****. How do I apply battery power to the motor? Do I just hook a positive lead to the 'up' connection, or do I have to ground the sucker?

Please help, I want to put this SOB up!

Dave

 

[rangerj]

30footSHO, and anyone else interested,

Left, or port, or driver side, rear window. From the driverside power window switch, (master switch)the left rear window hot ( power wires) are red with a light blue stripe, and yellow with a light blue stripe. The ground is black. All are 14 gauge wire. One powers the motor up, and the other powers the window down.

The common power line is light blue with a black stripe, and it is a 12 guage wire. You can jump the power to the up or down wire with the key in the on position, or use a battery with two leads. One lead goes to the ground, and one to the up or down wire. If the motor is good it will drive the window up or down.

As mentioned above you can clean up the motors commutator, grease the bearing surfaces, and gear, and clean any crap out of the motor to make it work.

This is true if nothing else is wrong with the motor. It is a good idea to clean and grease the tracks the window moves on as well. The helm manual, and I assume any other manual, describe the motor removal process, and installation process.

The rivets removed to get the motor out can be replaced with lock nuts and bolts. I believe the size is a 10mm, but check the Helm manual to be sure. To replace the rivets you need an industrial size rivet tool, which is available through Harbor Freight for cheap.

The single window switch is about $14 at a dealer. The master switch is about $45. Hope this helps. rangerj

 

[30footSHO]

I have the passenger window problem. But it's ok, I looked through an EVTM at the stealership last night and have the correct wiring.

Is there a way to manually raise this bitch if the motor just won't work?

Thanks,

Dave

 

[30footSHO]

Update: Success! I have raised the friggin' window!

Seems that the motor is ok, but the contacts were just plain dirty. A little spark from a hot wire livened it up a bit. Still wont raise from the master control, but at least I don't have plastic on that window anymore!

Thanks for the help. beer beer

Dave

 

[rangerj]

30footsho,

There aint nuthin like a suck cess story (sic).

The master switch sounds like it is FUBARed. Replace it when you are ready to be in control again! Cold Molsons for everone. beer beer beer thumbs_u rangerj