atx gen3 subframe - Update w/ more MTX

[rubydist]

here are a couple more photos of the mtx modified Gen3 subframe, for you guys who have not yet done it. It makes a huge improvement in the car.... (pictured is a 96 gen3 subframe)

in my opinion, this is the easiest way to lower that section of the subframe to provide clearance for the trans.

after this photo was taken, I had to cut some material away in both of those red boxes to allow the control arm to go through its full range of motion without hitting the subframe. also, make sure that where you lowered the section for clearance for the trans does not interfere with the control arm.

 

[Sho Amo]

I had no PS cooler before the swap and later removed CC when I put in an aftermarket steering wheel. Its crazy to look through this thread and see how clean it was then.

If theres anything I can stress to you guys doing this swap is take your time, get it powder coated, and do everything slowly. When I first swapped it, the trans notch wasnt correct so I had some vibration on hard right turns. The rattle can paint also flaked off the first time I sprayed brake clean on it after an oil change.




To add to the info Rubydist posted, here are the required parts.

Gen3:
subframe
Control arms
Knuckles
Tie rod ends
Rack bolts

Gen2
Trans mount (mtx)

 

[SHOZ123]

You guys using a GEN 3 SLO or SHO subframe?

 

[kevinspann]

A SLO subframe, Paul.

 

[SHOZ123]

That's what I thought. Two SHO subframes to the scrapyard then I guess.

 

[rubydist]

yes, regular slo Taurus subframe - the 96-97 variety is easier to modify, because you can just drill a new hole for the front right motor mount. with the 98+ subframe, you need more work in that area to move the motor mount hole.

 

[whiteguy3]

^ That is correct. Nice add to this thread. It's good to have all this info in one place.

 

[somedude_001]

I used a 04 subframe and it required a bunch of work for the front mount. I encourage anyone to use the proper year frame for the swap

 

[St Louis SHO]

I find the newer frames easier to build. Nothing a 2" hole saw and a steel plate wont fix.

 

[SHOtimer]

yes, regular slo Taurus subframe - the 96-97 variety is easier to modify, because you can just drill a new hole for the front right motor mount. with the 98+ subframe, you need more work in that area to move the motor mount hole.

So, on the '96-'97 you don't have to raise the level of the subframe where you drill the new hole to prep it for the new mount, you just drill it and you're good to go?

Doug

 

[rubydist]

no, you still have to raise it, but all you need is to drill a new hole and put a couple of the washers from the front axle nuts between the subframe and the motor mount.

on the 98+ the bottom side of the subframe in that spot is dropping way down, so you need to take a 2" hole saw and saw out the bottom side of the subframe, then weld in a 2" pipe section up to the upper side so it is strong enough.

you still have to raise the top side the ~5/8" on either one.

 

[boat]

Awesome thread, glad all of this info is in one place for this swap.

 

[SHOtimer]

no, you still have to raise it, but all you need is to drill a new hole and put a couple of the washers from the front axle nuts between the subframe and the motor mount.

on the 98+ the bottom side of the subframe in that spot is dropping way down, so you need to take a 2" hole saw and saw out the bottom side of the subframe, then weld in a 2" pipe section up to the upper side so it is strong enough.

you still have to raise the top side the ~5/8" on either one.

Understood.

Cool thanks! I'm going to start preparing.

Doug