ARRRRGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! STILL OVEHEATING!!!!

[Oz]

Thats exactly what Im telling you. And this is what happened to Nick Chrimes' daily driver. It overheated, but the temp gauge never moved until it was too late. Thats why, as far as Im concerned, temp stability is a BIG deal. I need to know what going on with my white car, and I will continue to post regarding this subject until it has been resolved entirely to my satisfaction.

 

[SHOfun 93]

Oz,
I suggest hooking up a water temp gauge to see what is really going on. That is what I am doing. I am tired of generalities with internal temps on these cars and dummy lights. Can't risk it. Best of luck finding your problem.

 

[Isaac]

Ok, I haven't had this confirmed here but if the heater core is not working or clogged or whatever happens to that little bugger behind the dashboard can it cause the car to run too hot???
If that is replaced will the cooling system

My 3.2 after the drive home (20min.) when the hood is up that intake (runners and all) is pretty damn hot. The whole bay seems hotter than it should be. (I just got it flushed and a small leak fixed...new tstat too...and the orange coolantas specified by sdpatt)

I found out if I keep the revs under 4k, the gauge goes to A but if I do any spirited driving (why I bought this car) the temp will go to R...I really don't like that.

BTW...I get the antifreeze smell with heat and a little oil I found in my plug wells last night...(like a few drops)

 

[SHOZ123]

The heater core will not affect the engine temp, you can use it as a small radiator though. I use to drive my cars in the '70s with the fan blade removed, if they started to overheat I would turn on the heater full blast. Usually controlled the engine heat very well.

Try this, take the top radiator hose off from the radiator, put a themometer in the hose so that when the t-stat opens you will get flow over the themometer. Start the car, let it get to operating temp and watch the flow coming out of the top hose. Use a garden hose in the radiator to maintain the water level. Doing this you will know excatly what temp the t-stat is working, whether it is leaking or sticking, and the amount of flow the water pump is producing.

Have you replaced the water pump or radiator? The water pump impeller might be corroded down to nothing and the radiator might be clogged due to the corrosion and subsequent redepositing of metals in the cooling sytstem.

 

[projectSHO89]

Ok, I haven't had this confirmed here but if the heater core is not working or clogged or whatever happens to that little bugger behind the dashboard can it cause the car to run too hot???

I've already addressed this. Please read my previous post.

Geez! Why are so many people so stressed out by a guage that is reading NORMAL ???????

Steve

 

[Diameg]

Sure it's reading normal but there's nothing wrong with Oz wanting it to read on the lower side of normal. For the life of me I can't figure out why that would bother you?

Oz, my car always read on the high side of normal too. Everyone told me it was okay and there wasn't a thing I could do about it.
Josh flushed my coolant, changed the t-stat with a 180, and put a water biased mix in. Voila, temperature stays at the A on the highway and slightly higher in town (LPM turns on my fan early, so I'm not sure how high it would get otherwise).

Put in Redline Waterwetter later on and was surprised at how much of a difference it made too!

I would be mildly surprised if the 192 vs 180 t-stat makes that much of a difference, but you never know with these finicky cars.

Mike

<small>[ October 04, 2002, 10:28 AM: Message edited by: Diameg ]</small>

 

[luigisho]

Mike, make sure you have the right ratio when the temps really drop up there.

 

[Isaac]

What happens if the thermostat is installed with the jiggle valve anywhere but at 12:00 position?
Just curious...

 

[BeatDaSHO]

pakisho.....i have the SAME EXACT problem as you. I replaced everything from the cooling system in 4 weeks and nothing has brought down the temp. I hooked up an electrical gauge and it was getting up to 220 before the fan kicked on and i thought that was wayyy to high. I bought this fan relay from pep boys and the fan could kick on at any temperature. i set it to kick on at 195 and the temp now stays at 195 all the time. it's not to factory specs but it's 25 degrees colder which works for me. if you find out what is wrong with yours, give me an email at [email protected] .

Greg

 

[Isaac]

Beat.... was that difficult installing that relay??? I am VERY interested..............
I should have thought of something like that!

 

[Diameg]

luigisho,

Yes, good point. I don't think Josh did a 70/30 split or anyhing like that. I'm thinking he probably did more like 55/45, since we live near each other and he knows full well what weather I'll be hitting this winter.

Actually, my car will probably spend some quality time at Josh's in his heated garage anyways this winter (Quaife, clutch, some other goodies). As usual he'll make sure it's prepped for the limited winter driving it will see.

Mike

 

[LaTechSHO]

Ok, so let me get this straight...

your fan wasn't kicking on till 220.... at which point the temp stayed around 220...

put in aftermarket relay to kick them on at 195... and when the fan stays on the temp stays down at 195.....

sounds to me like the original problem is the fan not coming on when it is supposed to... sound logical??

i would replace the piece that kicks the fan on... ECT you called it? i call it the coolant temperature sensor..(i believe you said you installed a new one on a different thread... if i were you i'd get a different one... or check and make sure the resistance/voltage is correct at the correct temperature) sometimes they do come defective in the box... seen it happen... even on motorcraft parts.

no matter how you look at it..from what you have said..... the fan just isn't coming on when it is supposed to

Louis

 

[HoustonSHO]

I didn't hear anything about pressure build-up, but just in case....I'm currently fighting a cooling problem as well, except mine is going above normal. There is a lot of pressure building up in the system which leads me to belive that one or both of my head gaskets are blown (I had earlier overheated my car to the point of engine stall and didn't realize it until it was too late). You can also smell the system while the engine is running and check for an exaust scent. One more thing to check is for water in your oil. All of these things apply to my situation. Just a suggestion.

Aaron