ARRRRGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! STILL OVEHEATING!!!!

[Oz]

1. New thermostat. Its a 192. I know, but it STILL shouldnt run so HOT!

2. Bypassed heatercore.

3. New Temp Sender.

4. Reflushed coolant.

What the **** is going ON!

THis is my NA car by the way. It runs at about the O-R, and if I even DARE to look at the AC switch, it goes to N. Fan works fine, I can hear it. And its not even that hot out, and these are only 10-15 mile stretches!!!!

Can someone help?

I swear, im THIS close to trading this clunker in for an acura.

<small>[ October 03, 2002, 05:23 PM: Message edited by: Pakisho ]</small>

 

[Mr Anonymous]

When it was flushed, was it pressure tested? I'm wondering if you have a restriction in a hose or in the radiator somewhere. Could also be a bad water pump.

 

[shojuan]

If you haven't already done it try this:

Take a bottle of simple green, or some good detergent. Soak the AC condensor fins with it. It will be a pain in the ass because the front grill is in the way. Time to practice your arm dexterity exercises. Blast the crap out of it with the hose. Finish up by doing the same thing to the radiator from the engine bay side to get any gunk that might have washed through from the front.

Hope this helps.

Rick

 

[projectSHO89]

The guage reads in the NORMAL range.

I wouldn't worry about it. It seems a LOT of energy has been expended lately to get the temp guages down to about the "AL" range.

Hook up a good aftermarket temp guage and see what it says.

BTW, think of the heater core as a secondary radiator. It's presence and use will remove heat from the engine's cooling system. It cannot cause an engine to run hot.

Rememer, it the AC is running, the heat released by the condensor raises the temperature of the air flowing through the radiator, reducing its efficiency.

Try checking for crap between the condensor and the radiator, like dead bugs, leaves, dirt, paper, mouse nests, etc. Also, verify that the radiator fins are clean and straight and that the seals between the condensor and the radiator are intact. Verify that the lower air dam is in place (if your higher temps are being registered while in motion).

BTW, you run that Acura this many miles for this many years, and it may become a 'clunker' also....

Steve

 

[SHOnuff93]

run less antifreeze, more water, replace the radiator cap, back flush the system, or deal with it.

my car runs in the O when i am driving through town, and drops to the A when on the freeway.

There is also the possibility that the guage is very sensitive.

 

[Oz]

K, now WTF is a back flush? Will be draining out coolant, putting in water and pouring water wetter in until the sunuvabitch comes out the cars ears.

And the gauge aint sensitive. Its been a little bitch ever since I had my 60k done over a year ago.

 

[shojuan]

SHOnuff93:
run less antifreeze, more water, replace the radiator cap, back flush the system, or deal with it.

my car runs in the O when i am driving through town, and drops to the A when on the freeway.

That's exactly where mine is running too! FWIW, I'm using 30% antifreeze and a bottle of waterwetter. Another thing that most people will not think of is if you flush your cooling system out and remove a bunch of scale, you are removing a layer of insulation between the coolant and the metal surfaces. This is a good thing. It also means that more heat can flow into your coolant which will result in higher coolant temperatures (and correspondingly *lower* block and head temperatures). A higher temperature at the radiator means a larger temperature differential with the outside cooling air which means that more heat will get rejected into the surroundings. OK, probably more than many of you wanted to know. In summary, with a nice clean cooling system more heat can move from the engine to the coolant. This is a good thing as long as the needle doesn't get into the red zone.

Rick

 

[Millersho]

Is projectSHO89 the only person here with some sense?

Everyone's been down this road before, replace what you will, but you will find it won't do anything.

I eventually gave up as well, then all of a sudden my gauge now never reaches above the middle mark, it's been that way for over a year now.
It used to go up to the top, so I thought my car was overheating. I even took it to the local ford dealership and got the actual temp and it was fine!

OVer the period of 2 years I basically replaced ever part in the cooling system, it did nothing.

It's the gauge or air in the system, drive the friggen car and stop trippin. If you keep replacing things, your going to get more air in the system.

Can we tack something like this to the top so we stop getting these questions every week.

If it's anywhere in the normal range, it's exactly what it says it, NORMAL.

Edited to say:

Actually, you should get the acura.
You don't deserve this car with an attitude like this.

You talk about getting an acura like your giving us here at shoforum an altimadum or something!
"I swear, if you guys don't tell me the answer to this peice of shit car, I'm going to get an acura".

You know what F off and get one then. Good Day

<small>[ October 03, 2002, 07:04 PM: Message edited by: Millersho ]</small>

 

[Lupo]

Just get an additional aftermarket water temp gauge from autometer or something. That way, you can see what actual temp corresponds to the range of "NORMAL" on the oem gauge, plus you get a "second opinion" on water temp.

 

[SHOZ123]

Most people with any sense have quit posting to the cooling system problems. Nobody listens any way. Normal is normal you know.

Now if the water was shooting out of the radiator like a gyser or you can hear it boiling it would be a different story.

Take the thermostat out. Then it would be in the N range all the time, well until it got cold.

 

[Millersho]

Another thought,

This may be a long shot, but has anyone ever thought about why the normal is so broad on the SHO's?

Have you ever seen an auto with such a wide normal range?

Maybe there's a reason for this??

Naww, I think I'll just keep posting these threads...

 

[SHOZ123]

If you really want to know what your engine is running relative to the gauge position get an ohm meter and check it against these values.

IAT/ECT SENSOR VOLTAGE AND RESISTANCE SPECIFICATIONS
Engine Coolant/Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Temperature Values

F..............Voltage.........Resistance
...............(volts).........(K ohms)
248.............0.27.............1.18
230.............0.35.............1.55
212.............0.46.............2.07
194.............0.60.............2.80
176.............0.78.............3.84
158.............1.02.............5.37
140.............1.33.............7.70
122.............1.70............10.97
104.............2.13............16.15
86...............2.60............24.27
68...............3.07............37.30
50...............3.51............58.75

<small>[ October 03, 2002, 07:19 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>

 

[Oz]

Millersho:
Is projectSHO89 the only person here with some sense?

Everyone's been down this road before, replace what you will, but you will find it won't do anything.
Can we tack something like this to the top so we stop getting these questions every week.
If it's anywhere in the normal range, it's exactly what it says it, NORMAL.
Edited to say:

Actually, you should get the acura.
You don't deserve this car with an attitude like this.

You talk about getting an acura like your giving us here at shoforum an altimadum or something!
"I swear, if you guys don't tell me the answer to this peice of shit car, I'm going to get an acura".

You know what F off and get one then. Good Day

Hot damn, you have some ******* nerve there, buddy. I was asking for opinions on how to bring down my water temp. What it should be at, and what I should be happy with, is NONE OF YOUR ********* BUSINESS. If I want one of my Shos to run at 23 ******* degrees below zero, I am WELL WITHIN my rights to post on here and ask for advice. And if you dont like my "altimadum" and dont like the fact that I own a sho, then why dont you click the X at the top right corner of your screen and go take a nice cold shower?

Brian and others who responded, thanks, I will be following most of these suggestions.

And incidentally, *******, your temp sender has stopped working. the same thing happened to my friends car. Except that when his did start overheating, the temp gauge did not react in time and his engine seized, resulting in him having to part out the car.

<small>[ October 03, 2002, 07:19 PM: Message edited by: Pakisho ]</small>

 

[Millersho]

Everyone has rights, were all exercising them, even me.

Please sell your SHO and get an acura.

Good Day.

<small>[ October 03, 2002, 07:43 PM: Message edited by: Millersho ]</small>

 

[luigisho]

Oz, when I switched out my lpm I noticed a big diff. in temp range cuz Ted programmed in a lower temp. setting to kick on the fan. I forgot that was in the programming for a day or two and was worrying about overheating. The difference on the gauge was pretty big.
Point? If your normal oem t-stat is supposed to be in the 180 range switch it out and see what difference it makes.

 

[Oz]

Miller, I decline your request. Thanks for your input.

Luigisho, Ive been thinking about that. I will be swapping for a 180. Thanks!

<small>[ October 03, 2002, 07:59 PM: Message edited by: Pakisho ]</small>

 

[shodazzl]

Funnny I had the same problem replace everthing ect,sender,tstat,radiator,flushed system,and it took about two months for whatever reason -the car has been running the way I think it should,at the A L range .Ive noticed when I stop moving over 2 minutes it goes up to the middle,then back down when driving.My guage used to read as high as the n For about 2years.Now don't ask how it fixed itself..

 

[Oz]

your temp sender died/went bad. happens very quickly on shos.

 

[shodazzl]

Funnny I had the same problem replace everthing ect,sender,tstat,radiator,flushed system,and it took about two months for whatever reason -the car has been running the way I think it should,at the A L range .Ive noticed when I stop moving over 2 minutes it goes up to the middle,then back down when driving.My guage used to read as high as the n For about 2years.Now don't ask how it fixed itself..93 atx

 

[Millersho]

So pakisho, are you proposing that the reason behind our temp reading suddenly “fixing” themselves is because the temp sending unit going bad and our temps are actually higher then we think?

It’s a valid assumption, the gauges work by measuring variances in a circuit.
So the temp sender unit can no longer read a curtain range of ohms.

I know mine acts funny, when warming up, it will sometimes raise to halfway, then quickly drop down to 1/4. It seems real sensitive as well.

Am I wrong about my guess about your guess?