Anyone have an idea what this connector goes to?

[Ruckusnuts]

Hey everyone, I'm a newbie to SHO's. Just picked one up for a winter car and am trying to get it running right.

Trying to troubleshoot my rough running 95 MTX. I found this just hanging out in the engine bay. http://i.imgur.com/iARImgi.jpg

Also I'm throwing 112 and 212 codes. Any pointers? Thanks everyone!

Symptoms: No power and and stumbles and misses at Idle. Pretty sure it's not firing on all holes. I did a KOER Balance test and it flashed 9 as OK. It also didn't sound like one cylinder was worse than the other.

So far: Fuel pressure is a weak on the top end. 32lbs It has a new pump so I'm ordering a regulator as I smelled gas in the vacuum line where it connects.

Compression is 125lbs +/- 2% across all six
TPS voltages are good.
Cleaned the MAF
Secondaries open at 4k
Daylight through air filter
Plugs look new, but am ordering new wires. Tested a new coil but no change.

Also found an unshielded wire in a frayed loom behind the Intake manifold ground strap. It still has continuity to ground but it looks bad. I'm tearing into it momentarily. Here it is http://i.imgur.com/DwJ0Qxz.jpg WTF? Is it supposed to be bare? It doesn't look like it ever had plastic around it

Any ideas or tips. Thanks everyone!

 

[intimdatr]

Sounds like either a Cam sensor or Crank sensor is dying or dead.

 

[hawkeye18]

the plug you showed doesn't hook up to anything. It's a test port for the VAPS system.

 

[rubydist]

112 = air charge temp circuit grounded.

212 = SPOUT circuit grounded.

These are both serious problems and have nothing to do with crank sensors or cam sensors. Seriously guys, what is the point of getting the codes if you ignore what they are??

I have never seen a SHO run properly if it has a intake air temp code, so you must find why the 112 is appearing. it could be the sensor itself (in the bottom of the airbox) but more likely in the wire harness between the sensor and the pcm.

The 212 code means that timing is fixed at 10* because of the SPOUT wiring issue - that will also result in low power and poor performance. Again it sounds like a wiring harness issue from what you are describing.

As these cars get older, there are more and more wiring issues that are appearing. They are not fun to chase, but once you find and fix them your hot rod will be happy again and so will you.

 

[Ruckusnuts]

Thanks for the great reply Rubydist. I found some wires that had rubbed through while ******* with it waiting for parts to show up. I taped those up and the 112 and 212 are gone for the time being. I also put on a new set of plug wires, a fuel pres regulator, and cam sensor on. My ******** dropped the bonded rubber and copper washer that goes under the fuel inlet down in the V of the block. FML!

So I ended up pulling the intake and fuel rails off and grabbing the washer. For whatever reason there is a grounding post with 2 leads hidden in the V of the engine. WTF Yamaha? I cleaned them up and put it all back together, hopefully the intake gaskets are reusable!!!!!! Went for a drive and all was fine for ABOUT 10 minutes then it started bucking, running worse than ever and threw a 214 (CID circuit failure) and I limped it home. I swapped the old cam sensor back in and now it's ran 30-40 miles great. Hopefully it was a junk sensor from the factory. Any way to test them? If not its a wiring short or a computer issue I'd imagine. Really hoping it's not in the wiring.

These things haul ass for a big ol tank. Hopefully it keeps that way through the winter. I bought this car so I didn't have to drive my Bimmer ///M roadster in the snow.

FYI it was a Standard brand cam sensor from rock auto. My knuckles are cut and scraped pretty bad. For 2 bolts and a plug that cam sensor is a real M-F-er. I suggest splurging for an OEM if you have to do yours. All in all I wouldn't be surprised if my issue from the get go was with the plug wires. I haven't ohm'ed them out yet but they look 100k old.

Hope this helps someone down the line. I'd like to hear your input on what went down. Thanks everyone. Keep an eye out I'LL Post here if things go ****** again.

 

[rubydist]

Unfortunately, that is not the first cam sensor that has failed in infancy. They just don't make 'em like they used to... btw, the symptoms you had were a sick cam sensor, if it had just died, the car would run fine, but no tach - and would be hard to start because the pcm would have to guess at the orientation of cyl 1.

Sounds like you might have found your wiring problem - hope that is all it was.

When you replaced plug wires was there oil down in the plug wells? Because if there was, the valve cover gaskets need replaced. Oil in plug wells will short out new wires in no time.

 

[Ruckusnuts]

When you replaced plug wires was there oil down in the plug wells? Because if there was, the valve cover gaskets need replaced. Oil in plug wells will short out new wires in no time.

The plug wells are dry surprisingly.