Another rob bearing Question

[jsho]

Another rod bearing Question

Ok I've searched and searched. I havent came to a conclusion whether to replace them or not. I have 181K, not any real noticeable noise. I talked to many shops, even performance-plus, and they all say replace with engine overhaul, not otherwise. I been reading from a lot of you guys that they should be replaced. I would like to do the job before it's really necessary. At the same time, I would hate to spin one after replacement.

 

[Ishodu]

It would be a good idea to do them at that mileage the next time you do any work where you have to remove the oil pan or y-pipe. But if your really worried about them just do them!

 

[somedude_001]

mine started knocking slightly at 199K so I replaced them it cost me about 65 bucks through RCM and you will need a torque wrench.

here is a writeup I found when I did mine although honestly if you can handle the job do it, if you live close to me (buffalo NY) I would give you a hand.

*what you want for this* http://home.earthlink.net/~rcm_automotive/id16.html

59.99- 3.0L-3.2L Clevite rod bearing kit
STD, .25mm, .50mm, .75mm under
Includes:
Clevite rod bearing set
Front oil pan seal
Rear oil pan seal
RTV silicone sealant (for pan rails)
Oil pump pickup tube gasket
Plastiguage

now for the writeup

Ideal rod bearing-to-crank clearance is .024mm-.056mm (.0009-.0022")
Max allowable is .08mm (.0031")

Search keys: connecting rod bearing replacement procedure

1.. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
2.. Drain oil, temporarily install new filter.
3.. Remove O2 sensors.
4.. Remove manifold nuts and cat ****** bolts.
5.. Remove Y-pipe.
6.. Remove oil level sensor.
7.. Remove starter.
8.. Remove oil pan bolts and nuts.
9.. Remove oil pan (there are interferences).
10. Remove oil pickup tube.
11. Remove windage tray.
12. Remove bearing girdle.
For each cylinder:
13. Loosen the two rod end cap nuts and unscrew a few turns.
14. With the 13mm socket and extension still on the nut, tap on the socket extension with a hammer to separate rod end.
15. Use non-scratching means to slide bearing halves so they can be removed.
16. Lubricate new bearings where they contact the crankshaft journal with assembly **** or lithium grease.
17. Install new bearings with tabs at the indentions in the rod and rod cap.
18. Gently install rod end cap and torque to specs, 1st stage 22-26lb-ft, 2nd 33-37lb-ft.
19. Rotate the crank to position the next two rod ends.
Reinstall each component that was removed in steps 1-12 in the reverse order with the following exceptions.
20. Add new gasket to oil pickup tube.
21. Install new oil pan gasket and silicone. If reusing a good condition old gasket, use PermaTex Ultra Black silicone.
22. Install oil pan, torque 11-17lb-ft.
23. Clean, sand contact points on starter.
24. Use new sealant on oil level sender.
25. Use new donut gasket on exhaust ******.
26. Use Anti-seize on O2 sensors and manifold nuts.
27. Refill new filter with oil and refill crankcase with oil.
Once everything is back together:
28. Unplug DIS and crank until OIL light extinguishes.
29. Reconnect DIS and start engine.
30. Set idle speed programming.

 

[jsho]

that was very helpful, thanks. I just put a clutch in the car, so this shouldn't be as bad. I'm still a little nervous about the actual bearing replacement, though.

 

[Rockledge]

Replacing the rod bearings on my SHO was one of the first projects I tackled. I wanted to do it before I started putting a lot of time and money into the car. I had read more than a few stories about guys who went crazy modding their SHOs only to spin a bearing and essentially have to start all over again, at least time-wise. And I hate doing things twice.

It was also a matter of me wanting to get a good peek at the bottom of the engine, I just wanted to make sure (to the extent that I could) that I wasn't driving around on borrowed time.

IMO, changing the rod bearings on the SHO ranks right up there with the 60K stuff in terms of importance.