another issue! resolved

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ThatShoGuy

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well i drove the car to my partents house to work on it...
i scaned and the codes i got

p1130
p1132
p0174
p0172

car has 113k miles the o2 sensor look to never been changed. the car has no power off the line?
 
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ThatShoGuy

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anyone know for sure if thats my issue

o2 sensors?

come on you pros???
 
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rubydist

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Here's the relevant manual info:

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0171 bank 1 (Cylinder 1) and DTC P0174 bank 2 indicate the fuel/air ratio is too lean. The fuel trim system is at the rich correction limit.

DTC P0172 bank 1 and DTC P0175 bank 2 indicate the fuel/air ratio is too rich. The fuel trim system is at the lean correction limit.

DTCs HO2S Reference list:

HO2S-11 = DTCs P0171 and P0172
HO2S-21 = DTCs P0174 and P0175

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1131 bank 1 (Cylinder 1) and P1151 bank 2 indicate the fuel/air ratio is correcting rich for an overly lean condition. The HO2S voltage is less than 0.45 volt. DTCs P1132 bank 1 (Cylinder 1) and P1152 bank 2 indicate the fuel/air ratio is correcting lean for an overly rich condition. The HO2S voltage is greater than 0.45 volt.

DTC P1130 and P1150 indicate the fuel control system has reached maximum compensation for a lean or rich condition and the HO2S is not switching.

DTC/HO2S Reference List

HO2S-11 = DTCs P1131, P1132 and P1130
HO2S-21 = DTCs P1151, P1152 and P1150
Possible causes:

Fuel system

Excessive fuel pressure.
Leaking fuel injector(s).
Leaking fuel pressure regulator.
Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel.
Contaminated fuel injector(s)
Vapor recovery system
Induction system

Air leaks after the MAF.
Vacuum leaks (vacuum lines and gaskets).
Restricted air inlet.
PCV system.
Improperly seated engine oil dipstick.
EGR System

Leaking gasket.
Stuck open EGR valve.
Leaking diaphragm.
Base engine

Oil overfill.
Cam timing.
Cylinder compression.
Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2Ss.
Check intake air system for leaks, obstructions and damage.
Check air cleaner element, air cleaner housing for blockage.
Verify integrity of the PCV system.
Check for vacuum leaks.


The codes you report suggest one bank is too lean, and the other too rich. O2 sensors generally fail showing too lean, so another issue (such as vacuum leak) is more likely the cause, or you have more than one issue.
 
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ThatShoGuy

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thanks for the tech stuff.but thought that it ment the car couldnt get enough fuel to get it out of lean. that the ecu was commanding as much fuel as it could and that it was still lean.


i pulled the Y pipe yesterday thinking maybe the cats were crapping out. they are still 1 piece from what i can tell. i dont think i have a vac leak.but i guess its possiable? from the heads up are sealed with Grey RTV permatex silicone and i let it curl for 24 hours b4 starting the car(which i use this on my tbirdsc that seen 15psi of boost) so i assume no leaks. now i am omost 100% i had an exhaust leak because i resealed the Y pipe when i reinstalled it and the exhaust is very quite. also all wiring looks to be safe from melts(o2sensors)

the idle surges (sometime) seems like once its out of cold start it runs a little better(say 10min after it has been running the car will rev up and run "smoother" so to say)
when the car is idling or reved up to 2k rpms it feels to have a miss. all coils "should be good"(they were all tested with my spark tester on a front cylinder)
but the car has NO off the line power, it will barely go. but once its over 2-3k rpms it just still dont feel right but it dosent feel to have as much power lost.

CAMS ARE WELDED! NOS short block. heads had around 4k miles,(motor has around 13k)


SHOZ123 where are you i know you can help =P
 
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rubydist

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Its possible that you have some bad fuel injectors - have you looked at the spark plugs?
 

ThatShoGuy

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well i havnt picked up another mafs yet.. all i had was that late model one.....


i did pull 2 front plugs because it was showing a coil #7 miss i switched them around with 5-7 and both plugs looked pretty good

i swtich coil and plugs and so far no miss??? i checked all the wiring. the case of the wires were stuck but not melted and shorting out on each other.

i have no clue were to look. tho i know it might not matter the maf sensor its self isnt that old it was changed about 20-25k ago. tho it is 5 years old. and i have cleaned it with mafs cleaner.
 

ThatShoGuy

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You could data log the O2s and MAF with the SCT flasher

dont have one.. been to worried about getting my thunderbird sc on the road and seeing 350hp that i dont have any extra cash to do anything to this car..

it has been pretty good till about a week ago. i can get my hands on a ford scanner but i would have to get a hold of my uncle and i think he would want me to drive my car out to him. which i dont wanna have to do because i dont wanna cause another issue!.

what do you suggest???

and THANK YOU!
 

jmpSHO

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If you think the car has original O2 sensors then it might be a good idea to replace them and that might clear up a code or two but it seems you may have other issues as well. You have to start some where and thats where I would start.
 

ThatShoGuy

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yea i was planing on buying 2 upstream o2 sensor 2morrow thats when i get paid...

but if im just shooting in the air i could waste money that i dont have much off to get this thing right. this is my daily driver so i have to get it right.
 

Mr Anonymous

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yea i was planing on buying 2 upstream o2 sensor 2morrow thats when i get paid...

but if im just shooting in the air i could waste money that i dont have much off to get this thing right. this is my daily driver so i have to get it right.
Yeah, just throw some new parts at it. That fixes everything.

o2 codes rarely mean an o2 sensor is bad. But hey, it's only money...
 

jmpSHO

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I would rather throw parts in my car than pay some idiot mechanic $75 to scan it and tell me I may need O2s anyways which most mechanics would suggest given that he may have the original O2s in the car.
 

ThatShoGuy

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I would rather throw parts in my car than pay some idiot mechanic $75 to scan it and tell me I may need O2s anyways which most mechanics would suggest given that he may have the original O2s in the car.

i agree but i wont pay someone im sure i can get it figured out but not sure...
 
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Yeah, just throw some new parts at it. That fixes everything.

o2 codes rarely mean an o2 sensor is bad. But hey, it's only money...

I agree chris, but when i had the misfire and code p0174 it was driving me nuts but i believe i fixed the misfire it has been a week and hasnt showed back up after reinsulating the rear cp wires, i have no vaccum leaks or intake leaks, but still have the code p0174 so i dont know where else to turn except get a new o2 sensor and see if that was the problem, what is the worst that can happen ? it doesnt go away, at least i have a new o2 senor
 

ThatShoGuy

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idk i was really over looking thos codes some more.. it does sound alot like the o2 sensors are whacked out. but i dont know. im mostly good for doing the work not figuring out whats wrong.
i straighten the code up, so it was way easier to read because b4 they didnt make much since. lol

DTC P0174 bank 2 indicate the fuel/air ratio is too lean. The fuel trim system is at the rich correction limit.

DTC P0172 bank 1 indicate the fuel/air ratio is too rich. The fuel trim system is at the lean correction limit.

DTC P1130 indicate the fuel control system has reached maximum compensation for a lean or rich condition and the HO2S is not switching.

DTCs P1132 bank 1 (Cylinder 1) indicate the fuel/air ratio is correcting lean for an overly rich condition. The HO2S voltage is greater than 0.45 volt.
 
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rubydist

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I would say there is a good chance you have at least one leaking fuel injector on bank 1 (rear/right). Once that is corrected, the fuel trim issues may or may not go away. If they do not, then I would change the O2 sensors - but I would fix the over-rich problem first.
 

ThatShoGuy

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ok.. i didnt know were to start i do have another set of fuel injectors.. ill just install those and see were that takes me..
 

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