About to rain, window won't go up!

[Izzmo]

Okay, last night, for whatever reason, I turned my car on, went to the gas station and picked up a drink, 1 mile down the road no less.., and when I came back, driver's side window would not go up.

So, I'm getting the imfamous clicking from the relay. I looked at the fuses, they are fine. As far as I can tell, how do you know if they are bad?

I tried swapping out the driver side for the accessory and the access. still worked, so I assume its fine.

I'm not sure how to check the motor, to see if it works, someone said with jumper cables, but damn, isn't that too much?

~Nick

It's about to rain, so any help would be appreciated!

 

[Silvapain]

Hold the window up button and smack the door hard with your free hand. Most likely the window motor has a bad spot in the windings - pretty common on cars as old as ours. My driver's window does it every once in a while.

 

[Izzmo]

lol, nope, didn't work It started to rain! Trash bags rock

The door panel is off, I have removed the button from the panel and stuck them on the wiring so I could still drive it.

I hear the relay clicking on and off, and sometimes I can hear something going to the motor.. so would this indicate a bad motor?

 

[Izzmo]

Okay, I just took the switch all apart and when I press down on the copper filament for the driver side window up, nothing happens. When I press down on the filament for down, a hear a click from the relay. Now, the window is fully down, so does that mean it's doing it because the window can go no farther? Anyways, I think it might be the switch.

I still need to figure out how to get power to the motor directly.. hmm. Any ideas?

 

[93rev2sev]

Try dissassmbling the switch and using an emory board on the contacts. Also (I don't know if the express down module is the same on g3s) The express down module might be bad.

You can hotwire the motor with a cordless drill battery...here's a pic of the express down module innards from my 93...and the reason I could not roll MY window up...

 

[Izzmo]

So, the cordless drill battery...

How do I hotwire it?

 

[93rev2sev]

Heavy speaker wire will work. Just look at the terminals on the drill and crimp some ends on your wire that will stay on the battery's terminals. Then, hold stripped wire ends to the motor's terminals and with any luck, the window will go up. If the window tries to go down even further, switch the wires.

Most batteries that have 3 terminals. You want to make sure you are not trying to put current through the "third" terminal because it's a sensor for the charger.

Take a look into the drills battery socket. There will only be 2 terminals in there...they may even be labled... Just make sure to use the same two battery terminals that plug into the drill.

 

[Izzmo]

Sweet, thanks man! I'll try it out over my lunch break and see what happens. Hopefully it's not the motor..

 

[93rev2sev]

If the window went down...and still TRIES to go down (you will see the doors steel flex slightly) then it's not the motor.

 

[Izzmo]

Well, I can hear the relay going when I press the down... so.. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Thanks.

 

[Izzmo]

Okay, so I tried that, it did not work.

I hear the power getting to the motor, but the window does not move. Even if I try pushing up on it, it does not move.

Is there any way to rig it to go up, even it the motor is fried? (I can hear the motor clicking somewhat though...)

 

[Mr Anonymous]

You can hotwire 12vdc direct to the motor, simply reversing the polarity changes the direction the motor turns.

If the motor will not turn, you can always temporarily borrow the motor from the RR window to get it up for now.

 

[Izzmo]

How come the right rear? (Passenger back right?)

And how do you remove the motor?

Also, if I do, what will happen to the window?

Thanks.

 

[SHOZ123]

The motors are just held on with bolts.

The motors are the same front and rear for that side of the car.

You can prop the window up with a 2x4 to keep it closed.

But I have found that just unplugging the connector and cleaning it off has fixed my windows when they refuse to work. I suspect this is what happens when people bang on the door. Not so much the brushes. If the brushes were bad it would happen all the time.

 

[Izzmo]

I have tried everything humanly possible with the connectors. What a bitch.

I even tore the swich down to the silicone board and testing the power that way.
Note: not a good idea. I created about a half-inch arc of power from my needle slipping into the switch! Luckily, it didn't get to me.. but now my needle off my multimeter is bent melted looking.. err.

So, my next step is to remove the motor and see if it'll work if I put direct power to it. If it does, then it has to by my switch. (****.. $80.. rediculous) Or, if not that, then it is the regulator that is stuck. We shall see tonight.

BTW.. does v8SHO ever get updated anymore? I have ran into stupid ass problems that should probably be on there.. like this one. There is nothing real concrete about the windows on there.

 

[luigisho]

If it's a switch buy a used one and save some $.

 

[Izzmo]

Well.. true. I know what the problem is on the switch.. but I think I mighta really ****** it up with that arc lol. It put a nice "weld" kinda mark in the resistors.

 

[Izzmo]

So, mine are riveted in. How do I get those off?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

So, mine are riveted in. How do I get those off?

Your window motors?

No they're not.

There are three holes in the inner door panel steel that permit access to the three 10mm headed bolts that secure the motor.

 

[Izzmo]

Okay, yah, I'm ********, just saw that

Now, i got them out, now what? The motor doesn't budge.