A Couple of Weird Noises and Issues

[David Owen]

Hello All,

I lost access to my other account, so I am only sort of new. I've been browsing the forums for a while, but now I need some help...

I have 3 annoying issues with my 2015 Ford Taurus SHO with 41,000 miles.

1. While driving in a spirited manner (), if cruise along at 90mph, more often than not, I will start hearing a drone type sound from the rear end. It's almost like a waaah waaah waaah sound in a somewhat rhythmic manner and goes away when I drop down to 88mph or so. Similar to the sound of having your back windows down on the highway, but not as loud. I changed out the PTU and RDU fluid with recommenced viscosities of Lucas Oil and Mobil 1 with no change in symptoms.

2. When reversing, I usually let the idle engine carry itself in reverse, not hitting the gas, however, if I punch the gas a little (like on a hill) I occasionally hear either a rather loud click or I will feel a small jolt. The click usually happens when I am backing up straight and happens after I put it in reverse, and the jolt primarily happens when I am turning the wheel to the right while backing up.

3. Are your brakes loud?! Like seriously, if I put moderate pressure on my brakes while slowing down from highway speeds I get a distinct grumble from the front calipers. The car will rip your face off when stopping if you really jam them, and there is no abnormal brake fade. (Small back story, I bought the car with warped rotors and thought that the grumble was due to that. Swapped out the pads and rotors, warped feeling gone, but grumble remains). Anyone know what I am talking about?

Sorry for the long post. I am ready to start dropping money into mods, but want to get these few little quirks ironed out first.

 

[SM105K]

Insight below in bold.

Hello All,

I lost access to my other account, so I am only sort of new. I've been browsing the forums for a while, but now I need some help...

I have 3 annoying issues with my 2015 Ford Taurus SHO with 41,000 miles.

1. While driving in a spirited manner (), if cruise along at 90mph, more often than not, I will start hearing a drone type sound from the rear end. It's almost like a waaah waaah waaah sound in a somewhat rhythmic manner and goes away when I drop down to 88mph or so. Similar to the sound of having your back windows down on the highway, but not as loud. I changed out the PTU and RDU fluid with recommenced viscosities of Lucas Oil and Mobil 1 with no change in symptoms.

If it is rhythmic first thing I think of is tires. Pitch changes as speed increases. However, if you are hitting 88 mph, the flux capacitor is primed.

2. When reversing, I usually let the idle engine carry itself in reverse, not hitting the gas, however, if I punch the gas a little (like on a hill) I occasionally hear either a rather loud click or I will feel a small jolt. The click usually happens when I am backing up straight and happens after I put it in reverse, and the jolt primarily happens when I am turning the wheel to the right while backing up.

I don't do much backing up while punching the gas and turning. This could be the some slop in the drive train and the axles. I wouldn't worry about it, and I wouldn't advise stomping the gas while in reverse either.

3. Are your brakes loud?! Like seriously, if I put moderate pressure on my brakes while slowing down from highway speeds I get a distinct grumble from the front calipers. The car will rip your face off when stopping if you really jam them, and there is no abnormal brake fade. (Small back story, I bought the car with warped rotors and thought that the grumble was due to that. Swapped out the pads and rotors, warped feeling gone, but grumble remains). Anyone know what I am talking about?

Yes, my PP brake pads were loud and they squeaked. Literally drove me insane. I replaced all four corners with the PowerStop Vented and Slotted rotor with their ceramic pads. I have beat the **** out of them (past the point of brake fade) and they are still very quiet.

Sorry for the long post. I am ready to start dropping money into mods, but want to get these few little quirks ironed out first.

 

[SM105K]

Also did you paint/powercoat your stock SHO wheels?

 

[David Owen]

Thanks for the info.

The dealership painted them, which I thought was odd, but at the time it looked so good it actually pushed me to choose this car. Come to find out there was rim damage they covered up and two bent rims

 

[SM105K]

Thanks for the info.

The dealership painted them, which I thought was odd, but at the time it looked so good it actually pushed me to choose this car. Come to find out there was rim damage they covered up and two bent rims

So the rims were damaged? That could be your issue/the sound you think is coming out of your rear end.....

 

[David Owen]

You're absolutely right. I'm, a little short on cash right now, so I went with a set of police interceptor rims and nice set of Michelin MXV4's with about 60% tread life. The car rides like butter now and ironically the noise in the rear at high speeds is gone. Still a little driveline slop when reversing, but it seems to be common with these cars. The only thing really left on my list is the braking noise. It's not standard braking noise like a squeal or anything. They're just rough and grumbly when you get on them. Never experienced this before in a vehicle, and like I said, I replaced the rotors and pads, so I can't imagine wy it would be like this. I should probably go test drive another car and see if it's normal.

They work fine, just kinda freak passengers out when they hear it. I drive for uber, so freaking passengers out is not my mission. I just force myself to be super easy on them and they are quiet. But leaving the interstate and braking on an exit ramp sometimes causes enough force to get them grumbling.

 

[SM105K]

You're absolutely right. I'm, a little short on cash right now, so I went with a set of police interceptor rims and nice set of Michelin MXV4's with about 60% tread life. The car rides like butter now and ironically the noise in the rear at high speeds is gone. Still a little driveline slop when reversing, but it seems to be common with these cars. The only thing really left on my list is the braking noise. It's not standard braking noise like a squeal or anything. They're just rough and grumbly when you get on them. Never experienced this before in a vehicle, and like I said, I replaced the rotors and pads, so I can't imagine wy it would be like this. I should probably go test drive another car and see if it's normal.

They work fine, just kinda freak passengers out when they hear it. I drive for uber, so freaking passengers out is not my mission. I just force myself to be super easy on them and they are quiet. But leaving the interstate and braking on an exit ramp sometimes causes enough force to get them grumbling.

Interesting....clearly the car was curbed.

Do you feel it at any other time other then braking? Were the pads that you removed worn evenly? Is it isolated to the front or the sides. I am thinking maybe you have a bent bracket and the pad isn't engaging flush and that is causing some binding/chatter.

Like I said I hated my PP pads, I went full power stop pads and rotors all the way around, and now she doesn't make a sound. I also drive her like a complete ***** sometimes, and have pushed those pads and rotors past their limits....still butter smooth and no sound.

 

[David Owen]

That's a good point. The pads seemed to be worn evenly, but they were also fairly new looking. The rotors were definitely warped. Warp went away with the rotor change and I properly seated the pads to the new rotors with the 30/50/70 stop technique (whatever it is). BUT, I never considered that maybe the caliper is not engaging them evenly. These are dual piston calipers if I remember correctly, right? Maybe they need a flush or maybe the little slide pins need closer inspection. I'll dig into it soon. Too much going on right now to worry about it.

 

[SM105K]

That's a good point. The pads seemed to be worn evenly, but they were also fairly new looking. The rotors were definitely warped. Warp went away with the rotor change and I properly seated the pads to the new rotors with the 30/50/70 stop technique (whatever it is). BUT, I never considered that maybe the caliper is not engaging them evenly. These are dual piston calipers if I remember correctly, right? Maybe they need a flush or maybe the little slide pins need closer inspection. I'll dig into it soon. Too much going on right now to worry about it.

Did you re grease the slide pins?

I wish you lived closer, I would let you drive mine and you could see how good the brakes can be.

 

[David Owen]

I did, I used the same **** that goes on the pad. I've been doing it that way for as long as I can remember.

 

[SM105K]

I did, I used the same **** that goes on the pad. I've been doing it that way for as long as I can remember.

Something isn't right. Can you isolate where it is coming from?

 

[David Owen]

It just feels like it's in the front end. If I really get on them I can hear it vibrating the dash a bit. I don't really feel it in the brake pedal and they respond well. They're not grabby and they progress appropriately based on pedal pressure. I had to emergency brake a few weeks ago and the abs kicked in a stopped the car on a dime. Other than the grumble on harder braking, they seem to work perfectly fine.

 

[jfalkingham]

Your symptoms in reverse sound eerily similar to mine, it was the PTU. The dealer kept glossing over it until one night backing up heard a louder thump then a nice streak of ptu fluid on the driveway. It took a while from first symptoms to failure, but it did progress.

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[David Owen]

Your symptoms in reverse sound eerily similar to mine, it was the PTU. The dealer kept glossing over it until one night backing up heard a louder thump then a nice streak of ptu fluid on the driveway. It took a while from first symptoms to failure, but it did progress.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I truly think it is the PTU also, which is why I changed the fluid. I should have until 60,000 miles to get that replaced under warranty and I'm at 41,000. Hopefully, it fails before 60 and not after...

 

[SM105K]

I truly think it is the PTU also, which is why I changed the fluid. I should have until 60,000 miles to get that replaced under warranty and I'm at 41,000. Hopefully, it fails before 60 and not after...

Take it in now. Better safe then sorry. Usually when the PTU goes it cracks the trans case. Most times Ford does not replace the whole trans unit, only the case.

 

[David Owen]

Yeah, my only problem is that I can't replicate it consistently, I find it nearly impossible that Ford will actually find it.

 

[jfalkingham]

Yeah, my only problem is that I can't replicate it consistently, I find it nearly impossible that Ford will actually find it.

Keep recording the symptoms! You have plenty of time.

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