'94 ATX, no spark, replaced main items

[MotoArts]

Car has had recent front 60k with no problems for 1K+ miles. Gave CEL briefly once a day for 2 days, then refused to start in the driveway. Cranks fine, but has no spark at plugs. Checked voltage at DIS pins per rangerj's outline on search. The only offending reading was the yellow wire (SPOUT) at the DIS, with a reading of 9.6V. I have tried 4 other DIS modules, only to test them on another running '94 ATX and finding out that all of them (now) do not work. The chances of having 4 (now possibly 5 - read on) defective modules is one in 3 gazillion. I assume something is blowing the DIS', and (referring to another members' problem with their high SPOUT reading) now have replaced the D4U1 ECM with another, and a 5th DIS. Battery was very low from having the glove box door opened for several days (leaving the light on - d'oh!), so I used the 50A jumper briefly for cranking purposes. Checked all connections, cranked engine, and still no fire. Left battery on charge (10A with 2A trickle) and now battery shows signs of shorting (pulls 10A from charger, won't crank engine).

Codes are the venerable 212/214. I do have good tach reading when cranking. Coil pack has not been tested/replaced. Neither crank or cam sensors were replaced in the 60K (everything but those was ). Car ran and started absolutely perfectly, with no misfire or cold/hot start issues before retiring.
I have discovered Havoc's diagnosis for the broken solder joint at the PCM plug, but haven't checked my bundle yet, nor have I checked resistance in any of the wires (just voltage). I will rerun the voltage checks in the AM.

Silly question, but should I run the checks using the back probe method only? The shorted battery is raising a red flag also... Any help will be greatly appreciated!
TIA!
Pete

 

[revhardSHO]

Car has had recent front 60k with no problems for 1K+ miles. Gave CEL briefly once a day for 2 days, then refused to start in the driveway. Cranks fine, but has no spark at plugs. Checked voltage at DIS pins per rangerj's outline on search. The only offending reading was the yellow wire (SPOUT) at the DIS, with a reading of 9.6V. I have tried 4 other DIS modules, only to test them on another running '94 ATX and finding out that all of them (now) do not work. The chances of having 4 (now possibly 5 - read on) defective modules is one in 3 gazillion. I assume something is blowing the DIS', and (referring to another members' problem with their high SPOUT reading) now have replaced the D4U1 ECM with another, and a 5th DIS. Battery was very low from having the glove box door opened for several days (leaving the light on - d'oh!), so I used the 50A jumper briefly for cranking purposes. Checked all connections, cranked engine, and still no fire. Left battery on charge (10A with 2A trickle) and now battery shows signs of shorting (pulls 10A from charger, won't crank engine).

Codes are the venerable 212/214. I do have good tach reading when cranking. Coil pack has not been tested/replaced. Neither crank or cam sensors were replaced in the 60K (everything but those was ). Car ran and started absolutely perfectly, with no misfire or cold/hot start issues before retiring.
I have discovered Havoc's diagnosis for the broken solder joint at the PCM plug, but haven't checked my bundle yet, nor have I checked resistance in any of the wires (just voltage). I will rerun the voltage checks in the AM.

Silly question, but should I run the checks using the back probe method only? The shorted battery is raising a red flag also... Any help will be greatly appreciated!
TIA!
Pete

If your lucky, it may be something as simple as the coolant level sender in the overflow bottle. It will short internally, blowing the mini 10a fuse in the power distribution box. I simply replaced the 10a fuse and disconnected the sensor, and that solved my no spark problem (it was my 94 ATX).

 

[MotoArts]

None of the fuses are blown. I have replaced the 10A coil fuse also.
Pete