93 SHO ATX problem

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SHOdownTN

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I'm new to SHO's so I may be a lil bit confused.
My car drives fine except when you floor it. The RPM's climb to around 7,000 before it seems to shift and go on.
What I wanna know is the tranny slipping or is this normal.

Also, The check engine light is on and has been since I bought the car. i ran codes and came up EGR voltage too low so I swapped the EGR valve. Light is still on but it comes and goes.
When I ran codes it came up also CID sensor, BOO switch or "Brake on/off switch", and PS/PS sensor.
I swapped the PS pump hopeing the PS/PS one would go away since I was getting a whinning noise from what I thaught was the pump. Turns out the whine was a Idler pully.
I think the BOO switch maybe why the cruise control was un-hooked.

Sorry to throw so much at once but like I said I'm new to these cars and just purchased this one for $1,000 with 117,000 miles on it.
 

MilTownSHO

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SHOdownTN said:
I'm new to SHO's so I may be a lil bit confused.
My car drives fine except when you floor it. The RPM's climb to around 7,000 before it seems to shift and go on.
What I wanna know is the tranny slipping or is this normal.

Does it shift when it hits 7,000 or stay there and take a second? If it shifts at about 7,000 when you are flooring it, thats normal, if your bouncing off the rev limiter (7,300) before it finally shifts then you have a problem.

Get a Ted B. LPM, it literally makes a world of difference! :thumb:
 

SHOdownTN

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MilTownSHO said:
Does it shift when it hits 7,000 or stay there and take a second? If it shifts at about 7,000 when you are flooring it, thats normal, if your bouncing off the rev limiter (7,300) before it finally shifts then you have a problem.

Get a Ted B. LPM, it literally makes a world of difference! :thumb:
Nope it shifts right on at 7grand when floored. What's a Ted B. LPM?
 

MilTownSHO

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SHOdownTN said:
Nope it shifts right on at 7grand when floored. What's a Ted B. LPM?

Then it's working fine, a Ted B. LPM (lifetime program module) plugs into your computer improving shifts, spark, and many other factors. Really wakes up an ATX.
 

SHOdownTN

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MilTownSHO said:
Then it's working fine, a Ted B. LPM (lifetime program module) plugs into your computer improving shifts, spark, and many other factors. Really wakes up an ATX.
hmm, how much and where do I find them?
 

n8rsk8r

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hey dude, was that the KOEO? All that means is that you didn't turn the wheel, depress the brake pedal, and the other is for letting you know how many cylinders you have in the engine.
 

MilTownSHO

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SHO&PRV said:
I've been having the same problem w/ mine as well. :madflame: Only thing is it's a '93 w/ 131,00 mi. on her. So how much is it 2 reprogram one of those babies.

What problem? :confused:

The cost is free if once you own the chip, although if you buy it used I believe there is a one time $20 user change fee.
 

Edveen

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Im not very fond of electronics on cars, but what exactly does the LPM do? Does it automaticly adjust to modifications you put on your car? Or does a mechanic have to program it to do so? Can any mechanic program it or only shops that specialize in SHO's?

Excuse my ignorance :eek:
 

SHOdownTN

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n8rsk8r said:
hey dude, was that the KOEO? All that means is that you didn't turn the wheel, depress the brake pedal, and the other is for letting you know how many cylinders you have in the engine.
I think CID was while running, i'm not conserned with the PS sensor or the BOO switch.
Will the CID make it run a lil rough and hard to start? I'm assuming the EGR Sensor is Bad also for the check engine light beeing on still.
 

musiccitysho

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A bad CID will cause it to run rough and have hard starts, also the tach will intermittantly not work unless you floorit in drive and get the revs a bit past 5500. Mine threw a code and ce light.
 

MilTownSHO

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Edveen said:
Im not very fond of electronics on cars, but what exactly does the LPM do? Does it automaticly adjust to modifications you put on your car? Or does a mechanic have to program it to do so? Can any mechanic program it or only shops that specialize in SHO's?

Excuse my ignorance :eek:

No you have to send it to be reprogrammed if you add something that will affect the car (such as an LPM, Y-pipe, etc) you don't have to send it back if you add a windshield banner, clear corners, etc.

LPM's modify how your car shifts, timing, fuel, spark, etc.
 

SHOdownTN

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musiccitysho said:
A bad CID will cause it to run rough and have hard starts, also the tach will intermittantly not work unless you floorit in drive and get the revs a bit past 5500. Mine threw a code and ce light.
Ok,I'm thinking more and more about swapping the CID. My car since I have posted this has started missing at idle, seems to go away after getting the r's up and seldom misses afterwards. It is hard to start also, mostly when it's cool.

Will also swap the EGR valve position sensor since I'm getting a low voltage code from it still after I swapped the EGR valve.

I will also be doing the 60k since there is no records to be found in the car and plug wells are seeping oil. Along with new plugs and wires if not included in the 60k.

I can only do one at a time each week but should have it up to par within 3 weeks. Did I get ripped by spending $1,000 for this 93 taurus? with 117,000mile on it?
 

musiccitysho

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Sorry I didnt mention that the CID as most electronic sensors will generally only act up when the engine is heated. I never had a problem with mine when the engine was cool. The seeping oil in the plug wells could very well be the cause of the the missing at idle and hard starts. Unless you have a code for the camshaft sensor I would not assume its bad.
BTW 1000.00 for a 93 aint bad, I paid 4000.00 for mine 3 years ago and have dropped over 2000.00 just in maintenance, thats not even including the mods. Ouch It hurts to even think about it, but somehow it seems worth it when Im on interstate 65.
 

SHOdownTN

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The seeping oil in the plug wells could very well be the cause of the the missing at idle and hard starts.
Yea, I really think the oil is causing the miss, I stuck the stock airbox back on and seems to run a lil better.
Unless you have a code for the camshaft sensor I would not assume its bad.
That's the thing, i do get a code saying CID low voltage I think was the code.

I'm gonna check codes again and write them down so you can see what it's telling me.
 

SHOdownTN

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ok codes go like this:

327 - O,C,R EGR (EVP/EPT) circuit voltage below minimum voltage.

521 - R PSPS circuit does no change states during self-test
(I didn't turn wheel while it was running.)

536 - R BOO switch circuit fault/not activated during KOER test.

538 - R Invalid cylinder balance test caused by CID sensor circuit fault.

632 - R Overdrive cancel switch circuit does not change during KOEO test.
(didn't hit overdrive button)
 

musiccitysho

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The only egr code I ever got was the 332 for plugged nostrils. The CID is a snap and only around 25.00. The only PITA is that accesability is a little tight on the ATX and the two small hex screws that hold it in place dont come with the new one so be careful not to lose them.
 

n8rsk8r

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hey okay my DIS book says that: CID (cylinder Identification Sensor) Hall effet sensor which generates a signal to identify a specific point in the travel of piston 1. The CID signal is used for DIS logic and EEC-IV SEFI fuel delivery logic. So yeah sounds like that would effect quite "abit." Let us know how it is coming along. :thumb:
 

musiccitysho

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A bad CID will intermittantly cause a hard start when warm...it will take multiple attempts to start and once it does it will but w/o a tach and it will run very poorly (rich) with a CE light, Unless you wait about 20 minutes or so depending on how hot the engine is. Occasionally it will correct itself while driving, the tach will start to function and the light will go off. It progessively gets worse and gets really unreliable. Run a search on "CID" for a wealth of info that will walk you through it.
 

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