93 PCM Question

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Blackdr16

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It was the PCM. Got the spare X2J and installed it tonight. Everything works perfect again. Thanks to SHOSource for the good parts! (Got a spare CCRM just in case - haven't installed it..will wait until needed.) Thanks for all the good troubleshooting info everyone!

Does anyone know if there's a place that repairs the old X2J PCMs? I'd like to repair my old one and have it around as a spare just in case...
 

notahemi72

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Awesome.
Test the CCRM to make sure it's good before you store it. Nothing against SHOSource, but I got a bad one from them a few years ago. They replaced it with no problem.
 

luigisho

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thegreatbriguy

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I would be interested to hear how the repair turns out. I have a bad x2j with a fuel circuit problem.
 

Blackdr16

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Update - New PCM started showing signs of failure after driving about 50 miles. Was almost back home from work when I felt engine power go down, CEL came on and exhaust started smelling rich. Shut off car then moved ignition to KOEO position. Check engine light came on solid - this time fully lit - radiator fan and fuel pump running solid again. Could not pull codes. I could still start the car but it ran pretty badly, felt like I was running on ~4 or less cylinders.

Just to validate something in my CCRM wasn't malfunctioning I swapped it to the brand new one and had same results. So I have something that is actively causing this PCM failure. Started checking other components that research shows can affect PCM such as my coil pack. Found #2 cylinder wire on coil pack was not seated fully into coil. Coil had evidence of water in it at some point, base of socket green with corrosion.

I've ordered a new PCM (I plan on getting both the dead ones repaired once the shops come back with estimates), new ACCEL coil pack, new wires. From the immense knowledge on this forum, is there any other places to investigate that you've seen **** a PCM? When it ran (both on original and replacement) the engine ran strong & average MPG was ~24.5. I'm sure #2 cylinder wasn't firing perfectly based on the condition this connector was in but it wasn't enough to cause noticeable misfire or imbalance.

This may sound a bit crazy but a new cam sensor has never been known to **** PCMs right? I've had this particular SHO for a couple weeks, initially had an intermittent misfire come up storing code 214 which is why I changed cam sensor in the first place. My new assumption is that the initial 214 code was probably coming from the original PCM / coil failing and not the cam sensor.

Take a look at the attached pic, guessing there is water / was water in the coil pack specifically at #2 port based on the corrosion and rust seen on the boot and wire's end.

Another left field question - could the DIS play a role in killing a PCM? (grounding, failing component..etc)
 

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luigisho

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What are the codes? I suppose a short could cause PCM issues but 2 cylinders could easily be a coil pack. Accel products are hit and miss and not as good as oem. i usually use a used coilpack unit from a parts car.
 

Blackdr16

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What are the codes? I suppose a short could cause PCM issues but 2 cylinders could easily be a coil pack. Accel products are hit and miss and not as good as oem. i usually use a used coilpack unit from a parts car.
I’ve not been successful pulling codes once this PCM started failing. CEL turns on and remains solidly lit. Doesn’t ever blink or turn off. Fan stays running on high and fuel pump runs continuously as well. It’s as if the PCM ignores the jumper once it gets to this type of failure.

Good to know on the accel coils, hopefully the one that’s already shipped turns out ok.
 

zoomlater

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I think what luigsho posted makes sense. Swap out the coil pack and wires and see if that solves the issue. I have not come across a DIS or Cam sensor causing issues with the PCM.
 

luigisho

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Well a solid clue of PCM failure is the inability to pull codes. I would swap coil packs for ***** and giggles but you may have to trace wiring which can be a beast. There are vids online on how to narrow down shorts and open circuits in an orderly fashion. So it seems daunting but you might be able to eliminate chunks of possibilities with tips from people who do this often. I have ADD and this stuff makes my head spin at the beginning

Let me amend this. Are you saying that using a jumper you can't get the pcm to cycle through diagnostics? If so are you using the correct pins at the diagnostic plug? Triple check??
 

Blackdr16

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Well a solid clue of PCM failure is the inability to pull codes. I would swap coil packs for ***** and giggles but you may have to trace wiring which can be a beast. There are vids online on how to narrow down shorts and open circuits in an orderly fashion. So it seems daunting but you might be able to eliminate chunks of possibilities with tips from people who do this often. I have ADD and this stuff makes my head spin at the beginning

Let me amend this. Are you saying that using a jumper you can't get the pcm to cycle through diagnostics? If so are you using the correct pins at the diagnostic plug? Triple check??
Yes, that's correct. I took a pic of my jumper just to be sure, checked that a few times myself as well. Order of events: 1. Plug in jumper, 2. Turn KOEO (key on engine off). CEL stays solidly lit, fan immediately runs on high and fuel pump stays running as well. Upload 2021 5 15 10 52 47
 

BaySHO Performance

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Don't have a clue what might be frying the PCM if that's what is happening. My only vaguely useful input is that the fan will run all the time KOEO if the PCM is disconnected. Might be worth checking the connector.
 

luigisho

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Yep that's right. Ugh. Not envying this. I think you'll be probing with a multimeter soon. I don't have great tips except I used about 1/2 dozen youtube vids to see a few options and pick one that looks like a good methodology. Hopefully it will be a simple isse that's easy to find.
 

Blackdr16

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Yep that's right. Ugh. Not envying this. I think you'll be probing with a multimeter soon. I don't have great tips except I used about 1/2 dozen youtube vids to see a few options and pick one that looks like a good methodology. Hopefully it will be a simple isse that's easy to find.
Hopefully. If its any clue the moment the issue started on the replacement PCM I was driving down the highway running about 45-50mph in 5th gear, higher load and lower rpm. This is when the engine suddenly bucked and ******, CEL came on immediately and then stayed on. Misfired and smelled strongly of unburnt fuel the rest of the way home. Then the rest of the story which I posted in the update above. If its not something loose in a harness somewhere I'd bet that's the moment the coil shot energy back into the PCM.
 

Devin

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That sounds similar to my CKS failure, but I could pull codes.

When in KOEO and the fan running constantly, have you tried wiggling the PCM harness? That's how I check for shorts :)
 

Blackdr16

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That sounds similar to my CKS failure, but I could pull codes.

When in KOEO and the fan running constantly, have you tried wiggling the PCM harness? That's how I check for shorts :)
Yeah, tried that on about every connection I can find. Think I’m gonna pull the intake when I do plugs and wires just for the extra space. I’ll get a better look at the PCM harness at the same time and see if anything else stands out.
 

Blackdr16

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This is the company I just bought my latest from. Haven't reached out to them specifically on rebuilding though.

UPDATE: Asked them and they replied stating they don’t rebuild or perform PCM repairs for customers.
 
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rubydist

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There is a reasonable chance that you have an intermittent short in the harness somewhere. If you can get the pcm repair place to tell you which circuit they need to repair, that may help you narrow down which part of the system you need to be evaluating. Otherwise, you are left with about 100k combinations to ohm out...
 

Blackdr16

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Agreed. If I find a place that will perform the repair I'll follow that lead. So far the couple places I've reached out to won't repair them or haven't replied back yet. Will follow up with phone calls if I don't hear back in another day or two.

Take a quick look at the attached photos, it appears there is evidence of water that's since dried up (Look at the old CCRM's capacitor and surrounding joints in particular, looks like a bit of rust. Could have led to an intermittent short circuit in the CCRM's board?) All spark plug wells were dry when I pulled wires out but had rust residue about 1 - 1/2 inch high on each end. Plugs also have a lot of rust on the upper sides. Coil pack had 2 plug wires green in corrosion. Guessing water was introduced to the engine bay? (If so, I'm sure someone prior to me had the best of intentions cleaning things so I'm not going down the rabbit hole, only attempting to rationalize the cause / effect.) I'm currently tracing thru harnesses to find if any of them retained water - assuming there may be shorts if insulation is broken anywhere. Hopefully I find anything else outstanding before installing new components.

So far every harness I've gone thru has been in good shape, nothing that looks to be damaged or pinched. Would seem to indicate an active component in the chain malfunctioning as the engine is running. If it were the old CCRM I would make a guess that when the PCM commanded a solenoid such as engine fan to come on it may have short circuited briefly causing component failure. That or voltage from the coil took an easier path thru the harness to PCM control if resistance were too great on both sides of a specific coil's output?

I'll also try using PCM pinout diagrams to see if I can tell what chain of circuits the transistors that appeared to be fried belong to on the original. As rubydist stated, knowing that failure point will almost certainly isolate the circuit and component causing this.
 

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