93 ATX will crank but not start

[rpb51]

I have a 93 ATX that I've gone through for the last 4 years when I've had time.
The car only has 60K (verified) so I did a 60k tuneup, timing belt replaced with all marks lining up at TDC #1, water pump, VC gaskets, valve adjust, CPS, intake fully dismantled and cleaned, new plugs, 8mm Taylor silicone wires, cat back exhaust, fuel filter, etc. Got it back together with all the hoses hooked up right and all the ground wires triple checked and resistance tested. I've got good spark and fuel in the rails with good pressure. Still won't start. Cranks strong but no hint of turning over. I pulled a plug and don't think I'm getting fuel in the cylinders. Could the injectors be stuck shut? I replaced the gas tank and fuel pump and it's all working fine. I also pulled 111 codes so I'm at a lose for what to try next. Any ideas?

 

[jw89sho]

Hit it w/ starter fluid. Maybe plug wires crossed?

 

[quake]

Check all fuses!All

 

[projectSHO89]

Check the IGN COIL fuse (the rest don't matter). If the fuse is blown, disconnect the radiator overflow sensor before replacing fuse.

 

[rpb51]

All the fuses are good. The ignition coil has a 15A fuse in it and the cover has a 10A called for. Like I said I have a good strong spark. The plug wires are all correct. Could any of the remaining gas in the injectors have turned to varnish in the 4 years it's been idle? Is it worth pulling the intake again and cleaning the rails and injectors?

 

[Off Road SHO]

If it was sitting that long there's a good chance that your injectors are so gummed up that they can't fire. You really should have had them cleaned while you had everything torn down that far.

You can try and jolt them awake with pulses of ground from a test light.

First, With the ignition switch turned to on, verify with a test light that you have 12 volts on the red wire of each injector. As soon as the key is on, all six red wires are heated up.

If you got the reds heated up, now disconnect the probe from the battery and push the point of the probe into the non-red wire of injector harness clip and momentarily touch the clip to the negative post of the battery. This grounds the injector causing its coil to slam the injector open. When you take the ground away, the injector's spring returns the piston to the closed position. You will be able to hear the click every time it opens and every time it closes. There is quite a bit of difference in the sound of a normal injector firing and a gummed up one trying to fire.

Tom

 

[rpb51]

Finally got time this weekend and took the intake manifold back off and pulled the fuel rails and cleaned out the injectors. Only one needed some light tapping to get it loosened. Now they all make that wonderful ticking sound. Just finished putting it back together and it fired right up!

 

[Irish Pride]

Sounds like you didnt have the DIS grounded properly and when you removed the intake and put it back together you corrected the problem.

 

[rpb51]

Now, the car runs great but then will run rough with loss of power. The CE light also come on and goes off. Thought it might be the MAF even though I cleaned it well with MAF cleaner. Even swapped the good one off my 94 and it still ran rough.

 

[zoomlater]

Did you try pulling your codes again? You can also try clearing the codes and checking them again after the check engine lights comes back on. I'm dealing with an EGR code myself and the check engine light was cycling on and off.

 

[rpb51]

Bad ignition control module. First time I've had one go bad. Pulled a 216 code and checked the forum and found it was potentially caused by a DIS starting to give up the ghost. I swapped out the module from my 94 ATX and it now runs perfect. When I test drove the 94 it ran fine to so I figured it was the connector. Drove the 94 to a meeting this morning and half way there it started acting up. I got it home before it died and swapped it out with another unit I had. All's normal again. Thanks for all the help.