93 atx engine stalls when I try to rev
- Thread starter goryr88
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Bryan
What do you get when a deer & SHO cross at 45mph?
Eh it could have just popped out with all the handling you have done in there as well. Those old connections are rather fragile after all this time
luigisho
SHO Member
Agree. Wiring is old on these things. Seeing alot of wiring issues pop up these days
Not sure if that is the source of your issues but you'll find out soon enough. Report back with what you find out.
luigisho
SHO Member
Looking at the video again I see what you mean about sabotage. Looks like a chunk missing in the wire length. That's weird. Hope patching this cures it.
luigisho
SHO Member
knock sensor wiring to the PCM? poking around I see reference to yellow with red stripe in Off Road SHO s post here
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/how-to-wire-a-sho-motor-in-something-else.115598/
Not sure if that's it or not. That is for a manual car so I'm not sure what differences are there. You have access to an EVTM for that year/config car? You could get lucky and find it on a simple chart like a post in that same thread
If the wires to the sides of DIS are slightly exposed you could see if they have any color match with that one.
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/how-to-wire-a-sho-motor-in-something-else.115598/
Not sure if that's it or not. That is for a manual car so I'm not sure what differences are there. You have access to an EVTM for that year/config car? You could get lucky and find it on a simple chart like a post in that same thread
If the wires to the sides of DIS are slightly exposed you could see if they have any color match with that one.
luigisho
SHO Member
I doubt it but I don't have vast wiring knowledge you should jumper it just to make sure. Have to eliminate everything. This car a recent acquisition? Are both ends fully exposed to short against something? ******* in the dark on this idea..
Bryan
What do you get when a deer & SHO cross at 45mph?
Maybe the pcm itself is bad? Can you try swapping that out with a new or used one? Perhaps that is the issue? It starts and then just dies... just spitballing myself here.
luigisho
SHO Member
I would get a gauge on it to verify. Do the box stores have a loaner for this? Not sure. It does look like it's getting choked out. Air fuel spark. You have to try and take each one with the once over. Fuel might be the easier one to start with. air in should be good so how about air going out or recirc choking it out? spark at this point would be bad battery/alt power, bad ground and pcm fault. This is the point where I consider paying someone with lots of diagnostic tools. I wouldn't do it yet but it's always an option if the wallet abides.
luigisho
SHO Member
Injector drivers from the pcm? fuel pump primes every time you turn the key back to the on position. If it starts to fail maybe that's the only constant delivery. Need a methodical game plan to eliminate things from the list of possibilities. bad regulator? the list gets really long when shooting in the dark
It should be the same, H3Z or H3Z2. I would check your fuel pressure as well to see what it is at before start up and what it is showing when it stops running. A few post back, you mentioned it ran fine the first time except for the FPR leak and didn't run well after you replaced the crush washer. Where did you find crush washers. When I replaced mine, both washers to fuel pressure regulator and damper were pretty unique and I could not find them so I reused my old ones.
I just got them from O'reilly auto parts. Crush washers couldn't really be the culprit could it? Is there a special tool to check the pressure? Every gauge I have will not go down far enough to get the pressure reading. It's like the valve is to deep to hit it with anything I have. How can you tell if the FPR is bad? No pressure?
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