I'm stumped. 93 ATX just finished the 60K. New timing belt, water pump, checked valves, CPS, plugs, wires, and acc belt. Put it all together last weekend and it ran fine except for fuel spraying from the regulator. I even revved it up to check the secondaries and they worked fine. Fast forward to today, I got the fuel leak fixed and put the intake back on and started it up. Very rough idle. Once in a while, it would pickup rpm and run fine, but then it would slowly die. Cannot give it any throttle, or it dies instantly. No check engine light either. Any ideas?
93 atx engine stalls when I try to rev
- Thread starter goryr88
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luigisho
SHO Member
bad seal from intake to head, pinched vacuum line in the back, wrong plug wire routing, belt jumped time... I would double check the plug wires and then go to removing the intake and reseating it. Make sure the couplers at the runners are loose as you can get a bad seal removing it and replacing it as one solid piece. Also check fuel pressure. All that stuff is at the top and is an easier place to start. I would also first pull codes even if you didn't see the check engine light
I'll check those in the morning. Plug wires are correct, because it ran fine last weekend. Please God I hope the belt didn't jump. I did not loosen any of the clamps on the runners last weekend and it ran fine. I did not loosen them this time either. Maybe I got a bad seal this time. Fuel pressure is good I believe. When I hit the valve, fuel comes pouring out, so I assume it is good.
luigisho
SHO Member
Fuel coming out is a good sign but not an accurate reading. You can get lucky with the intake but eventually it will shift ever so slightly and you'll think everything went on correctly but it didn't. I found that out the hard way and is why I mention it often. Same with pinched small vacuum hose on the back side where you can't see very well. I tightened the intake down and did not even notice a small hose got in there and I crushed it real good. Just spit-balling ideas from my own mistakes over the years. You have to eliminate the easy stuff before you dig deeper
Also you mentioned it ran fine and then you put the intake back on and it did not run fine so that is the logical place to start. At least to me
Also you mentioned it ran fine and then you put the intake back on and it did not run fine so that is the logical place to start. At least to me
So, I took the intake off and loosened the runners and put it on again. It sat nice and flush before I put the bolts in. Torque it down to 17 lbs on all bolts in 3 step increments. Connect everything else and now it'll run great for 10 to 15 seconds and then quit. Still cannot touch the throttle or it dies. No vacuum lines are crushed. Changed tps and maf and it still does it. The **** am I doing wrong?
luigisho
SHO Member
I agree. Take the car's help in pinpointing failures. Beyond that, was the car running well before the 60k? If so then you have to deconstruct what you did and see if there is an error somewhere or if a new part was faulty or an old part failed along the way. I wonder if the IAC is working properly? fuel pump? regulator failure? recheck the sparkplug wire routing to correct coil (happens more than you think), then look at the timing and the cps.
Codes first. Codes always first. Value your time and your wallet and take the 10 minutes to see if the car will help you solve any problem
Codes first. Codes always first. Value your time and your wallet and take the 10 minutes to see if the car will help you solve any problem
Ok. Here we go with the codes. it did run fine before the 60K. I'm gonna write these numbers in the sequence of the amount of times the check engine light blinked. It didn't work like I expected so here goes.
3 3 7 3 3 7 1 1 2 2 1 5 7 2 1 1 1 2 2 1 5 7 2 1 1
If I'm doing this right, I'm thinking
337-EGR feedback signal is/was high
122-TP low or possibly grounded
157-Mass air flow signal is/was low or grounded
211-ignitnion pip signal was erratic or missing
Someone chime in and let me know what they think. Much appreciated.
3 3 7 3 3 7 1 1 2 2 1 5 7 2 1 1 1 2 2 1 5 7 2 1 1
If I'm doing this right, I'm thinking
337-EGR feedback signal is/was high
122-TP low or possibly grounded
157-Mass air flow signal is/was low or grounded
211-ignitnion pip signal was erratic or missing
Someone chime in and let me know what they think. Much appreciated.
luigisho
SHO Member
I'm not sure about the numbers but that's too many sensor failures to be normal. First thing I would check is the battery voltage and voltage with the alternator running. When there isn't enough juice weird stuff happens. I never had a belt off time so I'm not sure if/how that effects codes across the spectrum.
Thanks to modern tech you can always try posting a vid with the flashes so people can double check your work. Usually if those codes are correct it's crazy electrical power problems, faulty computer, bad grounding issue etc. Also no experience with timing off significantly since the last motor swap I did was with an 80's car and no issues with that in any of my SHO's so someone else would have to pipe in on that
Thanks to modern tech you can always try posting a vid with the flashes so people can double check your work. Usually if those codes are correct it's crazy electrical power problems, faulty computer, bad grounding issue etc. Also no experience with timing off significantly since the last motor swap I did was with an 80's car and no issues with that in any of my SHO's so someone else would have to pipe in on that
No wonder it won't run. Both the mafs and the tps are ***** so it has no idea how much air is going into the engine, so no idea how much fuel to give it. So its trying to give it idle fuel even when you open the throttle.
Both the mafs and tps are on the same power circuit from the pcm. You will need to determine if there is power from the pcm to the mafs and to the tps, if its not being sent by the pcm or if its lost in the harness. Both are certainly possible. I am going to guess that the harness has a short somewhere and that the messing around with the intake manifold etc. has allowed that to appear, but its only a guess and you will need to find it and fix it.
Both the mafs and tps are on the same power circuit from the pcm. You will need to determine if there is power from the pcm to the mafs and to the tps, if its not being sent by the pcm or if its lost in the harness. Both are certainly possible. I am going to guess that the harness has a short somewhere and that the messing around with the intake manifold etc. has allowed that to appear, but its only a guess and you will need to find it and fix it.
Everything looks good that I can see. Is there supposed to be a ground on the bottom of the support piece that you stick down there? I know the ground connects through the top part of the support. I am trying to upload a couple vids, but I can't believe the limit is less than 20mb.
so I get:
current state codes
337 = egr feedback signal is high
stored codes
122 = tps signal low, grounded or open
157 = mafs signal low or grounded
211 = crank sensor signal erratic
Did you reset the codes (have battery disconnected) when you last pulled the intake manifold? If so, you still have the same issues. I am thinking that the crank sensor is bad and after it runs for a few seconds it quits working, which is causing the engine to die.
I am also thinking that you have the same lack of power to the tps and mafs that I discussed above.
If you did not reset the codes the last time you had the intake off, then you need to reset them, start the car a few times, and pull the codes again.
current state codes
337 = egr feedback signal is high
stored codes
122 = tps signal low, grounded or open
157 = mafs signal low or grounded
211 = crank sensor signal erratic
Did you reset the codes (have battery disconnected) when you last pulled the intake manifold? If so, you still have the same issues. I am thinking that the crank sensor is bad and after it runs for a few seconds it quits working, which is causing the engine to die.
I am also thinking that you have the same lack of power to the tps and mafs that I discussed above.
If you did not reset the codes the last time you had the intake off, then you need to reset them, start the car a few times, and pull the codes again.
luigisho
SHO Member
I agree. It's always best to check what is stored, clear it out and see what comes back. It doesn't sputter and seems to just cut out. I'm not sure if there is a pcm driver or wiring issue or if the crank sensor was bad out of the box. That is rare to fail out of the box but it has been posted on here before
luigisho
SHO Member
It ran ok before you did all the work?
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