93 atx engine stalls when I try to rev
- Thread starter goryr88
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luigisho
SHO Member
I would do the same. Usually when I work on something and it runs worse-- its from human error or faulty part in the work that was done. It could be that the failure is outside that, like pcm error or wiring fault, but logic would point to retracing the stuff you know was changed first
luigisho
SHO Member
will it continue to idle for a good while if you don't increase revs or will it stall out from idle?
Are you able to measure the fuel pressure when it is running and when it starts to cut out
My 2 cents. I noticed your intake is painted, and what caused very similar problems for other owners were wires not making a good ground because of the paint. After resurfacing those spots, everything was fine! Can someone elaborate on this? If you search you can find a couple of threads on this. I will post the specific one I had in mind when I find it.
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I made sure when I painted it that I didn't paint the bottom where the intake sits, the DIS part, or where any of the gaskets went. I did paint the bolt holes on the passenger side crossover tube though. I could sand them down, but the first time I put the intake back on, it ran great except for the fuel leak so that has me confused.
So here's the deal. Like a ***** I went and bought another one of these because I'm dumb. A 93 ATX black/black. Back to this problem. I had the cables off the battery for a couple days. Here's the codes. 337 egr feedback signal high. 539 which is nothing. 212 ignition tach was sporadic or SPOUT circuit fault. 337 egr again. Same business. Car runs but no throttle. Quits after 30 seconds or so. I pressed the shrader valve down while car is running and fuel almost his the hood. Still lost and frustrated beyond belief. How can this run fine and then just be a pile? I don't know what the **** to do...
ok, 2 new ideas:
1. disconnect the cam sensor and see if that changes anything. As you likely know, it may take 3-4 crank attempts to get it to start with no cam sensor, because the pcm has to guess at which cylinder is #1. You will have no tach but otherwise, once running, the car should run normally. I have seen where sick cam sensors make these cars run very poorly and/or die.
2. smack the egr valve. It is possible that the egr return is high because the egr is stuck open, which will not be good for allowing the car to idle. I've never experienced this on a SHO, but its possible that an open egr valve can make it run poorly / not idle.
1. disconnect the cam sensor and see if that changes anything. As you likely know, it may take 3-4 crank attempts to get it to start with no cam sensor, because the pcm has to guess at which cylinder is #1. You will have no tach but otherwise, once running, the car should run normally. I have seen where sick cam sensors make these cars run very poorly and/or die.
2. smack the egr valve. It is possible that the egr return is high because the egr is stuck open, which will not be good for allowing the car to idle. I've never experienced this on a SHO, but its possible that an open egr valve can make it run poorly / not idle.
How many miles are on the engine. Can you tell if the EGR passages has ever been cleaned or if the DPFE sensor looks the original one. I had a stumble and fluctuating idle on my 94ATX and it threw an EGR code. I cleaned the passages and nostrils (and hoses to the DPFE sensor) a couple of times, but the EGR code kept returning. I finally replaced the DPFE sensor and the problem and code went away.
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/dpfe-sensor-question-code-337.98399/#post-1034229
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/dpfe-sensor-question-code-337.98399/#post-1034229
I don't know much about the dpfe except the two hoses go into it and it has a plug that goes into it. I've never done anything with it. Car has 104k miles on it. Could that have went bad from taking the intake off? I'm still shocked at how this car ran great and all I did was remove the intake, put new crush washers on the fpr, and put the intake back on,. Now it's like I completely screwed everything up. Don't get it...
luigisho
SHO Member
SPOUT can get set off by PCM problem or sometimes DIS failure or bad DIS ground. That's where I would look next. Frustrating Look at the DIS module for cracks and bad grounds, sometimes fault from CPS signal can interrupt SPOUT signal (IIRC). When you said you painted the bolt holes on the passenger side crossover tube what holes are we talking about? Also did you paint the holes where the brackets mount to the intake and the head? There is a big ground strap that connects up there. The DIS module is grounded at the upper left bolt that holds the module to the flat spot of the intake. Clean that out as bad ground there is no bueno, bad module no bueno, bad cps no bueno etc
I did notice a crack in the "plastic" part of the DIS, but I don't think that would have any impact. I do have a spare DIS, but I already swapped it and it did nothing. You're talking about the area where the support mounts on the back left side of the engine right? That was never painted. Any holes were covered and not painted because I knew ground was important. Just the 2 holes that mount the xover tube to the intake were painted. I still can't believe how this can happen. I am just floored over this.
yes, a chunk of carbon could have moved during the r/r of the intake, messing up the egr.
I don't think you have a ground issue in the intake, because that would not explain the "runs for 15 seconds, then dies" symptom.
I don't think you have a ground issue in the intake, because that would not explain the "runs for 15 seconds, then dies" symptom.
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