914-SHO Project Thread

[3d914]

Been making progress on the approach for engine install. Have the engine bar, the cradle to do the bench test of the engine, and the motor mounts all designed. See details here.

Now just sourcing material to start assembly.

 

[3d914]

Well my old Craftsman compressor died a week or so back, so it was time to up the ante. Since I want to increase the level of tasks I take on with this project, it made sense to upgrade one of the main tools as well. I can now consider taking on all the base primer work - instead of relying soley on canned primer.

Now I just have to find someone locally to assist with the electrical circuit.

 

[3d914]

Got some work done on the engine cradle for the SHO motor. Progress in this thread, but I'll post a picture of the final here.

 

[3d914]

Found out the pulleys didn't line up correctly on my motor. Turns out I installed a 3.0 water pump on the 3.2. Tom was willing to exchange the upper portion so I needed to remove it.

Thankfully there is a raised shoulder near an open threaded hole, so I was able to use one of the shoulder bolts from the WP pulley as a pry point. Its important to loosen, but leave in a couple of the larger bolts that hold the assembly to the block.

Using a small pry bar I was able to break the front loose.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Gerard,

Measure that from pulley mounting ****** to gasket mounting surface. If it's the 3.0 like we suspect, it should be about 3.849".

Tom

 

[3d914]

Yep, 100mm or 3.9 inches

 

[itwonder]

It's really taking a chance to change just the front of the water pump because the housing usually will shift just enough so the tiny little o-ring between the housing and the block will leak. When you have all of the bolts out that hold the front, there is nothing holding the housing. But good luck!

 

[Off Road SHO]

We're not changing out the rear housing but I am sending him new o-rings.

Tom

 

[3d914]

That's good to know Bob, thanks

 

[3d914]

OK, decided to ditch the radiators mounted at the engine bar and drawing air from underneath. I would have to force more air under the car - which is undesirable - and the shrouds would have to sit below the body & would be a candidate for speed bump fodder.

After spending some time discussing it with a 914 racer friend of mine who has studied the air flow of the 914 at the roof/engine lid/trunk area, we've concluded the best approach in the engine bay is this.

The advantage of this location makes use of the high pressure air being drawn into the top of the engine bay. Tests ran by Tim showed that air pulls off the top and into the engine bay, and also pulls forward from the front 12 inches of the trunk lid.

I'll have to modify my engine lid from the standard, which is half painted metal and half metal mesh, to a GT style lid that is all mesh.
Here's the twin rad placement from the rear.

 

[3d914]

Didn't get sh#t done this weekend - felt like crap.

Did manage to get the 3.2 water pump installed though, belt tensioned, and covers back on. Need to come up with a way to torque the crank pulley nut since I don't have a flywheel yet.

Also rigged up a method to support the lower alternator since I won't be installing A/C initially.
Tom had the extended bolts and the Alternator-to-A/C bolt ******, so I welded some washers as stops to the extended bolts.

This positions the Alternator-to-A/C bolt ****** correctly. I did need to use some thick washers to make up for the lip on the end of the support ******.

I also added a 1/2 inch steel spacer between the A/C bracket and the head.

Tightened it all up and it feels secure. I'll get a better idea during the bench test.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Gerard,

You have those long stud-bolts in backwards but the way you have done it will work. Make sure those welded washers are really welded.

Tom

 

[3d914]

Tom, I tacked them at four places each. I can check them after the bench test to see if there's any change.

Also, I looked at installing the stud-bolts the other way but there wasn't enough thread to get through the Alternator-to-A/C bolt ****** and still get a nut on it.

OK, I get it. The hex part of the stud-bolt is supposed to go on the outside of the Alternator-to-A/C bolt ******. But why have additional thread extending out on that end then?

 

[Off Road SHO]

Because something else gets bolted under it perhaps?

On another note; do you want either of these radiators?

Tom

 

[3d914]

Sure, I'll shoot you an email.

 

[3d914]

Well got to work on the engine a little while electrician was here hooking up the compressor.

Thanks to some used parts from bruso I now have the pieces to put together sufficient exhaust system for the bench test. Or so I thought. I also have to replace my ATX headers with MTX to fit this MTX Y-pipe.

Started off by welding a fitting to the muffler section.

Now I've got the makings of a short, but complete, system.

 

[3d914]

After picking up the MTX headers from rbruso (Thanks), managed to get them hooked up to see how things would fit. Unfortunately I have interference between my cradle bracket (for mounting the engine to the test stand) and the ****** on the front header.

There's also no room now for the 1.5in X 2in vertical support which is supposed to sit behind the bracket.

This shows the engine bar support and a tube for the bar taped to it. There is just enough clearance between the engine bar and the Y-pipe - about 0.2. I have the same 0.2 clearance between the top of the engine bar and the oil pan.

The back side is more forgiving since the Y-pipe is not as close to the oil pan on that side.

I don't think I can change my cradle support sufficiently to make it work with the MTX headers & Y-pipe. The ATX header ****** sits much higher, and the pipe angle allows more room.

It looks like I'll have to use the Y-pipe pieces I have to fabricate one just for the bench test. That way I can get the fit closer to what I need. This would also be good practice for the final exhaust as well since it looks like I'll have to fab the Y-pipe as well.

I noticed that the portion of the Y-pipe that crosses under the oil pan keeps a good distance. Instead of crossing under my engine bar, I'd like to cross between it and the oil pan. Can I fab my crossover to be closer to the oil pan if I plan to wrap it with some insulating material?

Another thought would be to cut up one of the header heat shields to fit between the crossover pipe and the oil pan and mount it to my engine bar.

 

[3d914]

Making slow progress this weekend. Managed to fix the interference problem by welding a standoff plate .25 thick behind my support bracket. I'll now have enough room to get a bolt on the back side of this plate.

Took a couple steps backward since mocking up the exhaust. I now have to raise the engine support posts on the cradle at least three inches. I've only got a 10.5" section of this rectangular tubing left - so decided to cut it in half and add to each post.

Turned out to be a good welding exercise. Got a chance to see how the metal pulls in the direction of the first weld. See if you can tell which support I did first. On the second one I alternated sides and only welded a small section to see if I could manage the pull. Seemed to work as it came out nice and straight. Since the left side is capped I cut it first and inserted the new piece between - more welding practice that way.

 

[3d914]

HooRa! Finally got the SHO-914 adapter kit. This guy from the SHO forum had a kit he purchased back in 93' and never used. Now I can get the flywheel, clutch, and tranny assembled with the engine so I can get this puppy on the test stand.

 

[3d914]

Got to finish up the front supports for the SHO motor. Will get to the rears this week, and hope to put it on the engine test stand next weekend.