intimdatr
Got Cams?
Most 914 owners just drop the motor for that kinda stuff. Lol My Buddy and I are pretty at dropping them.
914-SHO Project Thread
- Thread starter 3d914
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Most 914 owners just drop the motor for that kinda stuff. Lol My Buddy and I are pretty at dropping them.
Exactly. Wiring, fuel, and now water will be designed for easy disconnect without draining systems, so the motor and its electronics can be isolated and lowered from the car. Won't be necessary for regular things, but for something like a 60K service - its just easier to drop it - especially with the cradle to put it on.
Got some time in this weekend to continue shaping the main firewall pieces. Feel like I'm chasing my tail on this left one. Every time I get one part of it to fit - something changes elsewhere. I've been using large magnets to hold the piece in place while I make adjustments, but they don't seem to hold very well. So I spent some time modifying my sheet metal clamps - used when butt-welding - so they will fit better and leave a smaller gap. I'm going to use three or four of them to hold the piece in place while I mark & make final adjustments.
Also spent time cleaning up the back side of the main firewall. Got the glue and paint off the upper firewall, except for the smaller sections in the corners. This will make the remaining cutting & welding work easier. Looks pertty - wish I could keep it this way.
Also spent time cleaning up the back side of the main firewall. Got the glue and paint off the upper firewall, except for the smaller sections in the corners. This will make the remaining cutting & welding work easier. Looks pertty - wish I could keep it this way.
Doing another test fit. I widened the trunk cutout - partly for the left head and partly for the intake. Now I can get the motor to its full and proper height.
Things are looking good - although there are a few issues - so the bad first:
Things are looking good - although there are a few issues - so the bad first:
- A valve cover bolt ****** on the left head is still interfering with the rear firewall. So it looks like I need to remove one more rib (about 1" wide) to get sufficient clearance.
- Also tried to fit the intake surge tank and found that it too needed some extra clearance.
OK, now for the good. With the motor in the correct position I have all the expected height needed install the motor mounts on the 1.5in 12g square tubing. This will give me about 3/8in clearance between the engine bar and the forward oil pan.
Speaking of the oil pan, you can see that it will be just above the bottom of the under-body.
Also have good clearance for the alternator.
And good clearance for the power steering pump - soon to be A/C.
Speaking of the oil pan, you can see that it will be just above the bottom of the under-body.
Also have good clearance for the alternator.
And good clearance for the power steering pump - soon to be A/C.
intimdatr
Got Cams?
Looking good dude! I'm sooo excited to see this thing run.
Was able to borrow a Hobart 175 Flux-wire/Gas welder from a neighbor (thanks Don & Charles). Spent the evening getting my wiring all squared away. Thing has a 50-amp plug on it. A little overkill for a 30-amp circuit, but I was able to adapt an extension to match our dryer's outlet.
Gonna do some tests tomorrow using the Flux wire I have first. If that's still a problem I'll use Mig wire and gas to compare with. I'll post some pics of the results. Sure looking forward to getting this body work done. Lots still to do.
EDIT: Note to self - measure the output voltage before making decisions. Plan first, then execute.
The dryer circuit turned out to be 120v/30a, not 230v. But that's OK. Digging more into the welder manual I found that even though its classed as a 30-175a welder, the circuit only need to be 20a. So that means I'll be modifying my compressor circuit to add an outlet for the welder.
Nothin but time, right?
Gonna do some tests tomorrow using the Flux wire I have first. If that's still a problem I'll use Mig wire and gas to compare with. I'll post some pics of the results. Sure looking forward to getting this body work done. Lots still to do.
EDIT: Note to self - measure the output voltage before making decisions. Plan first, then execute.
The dryer circuit turned out to be 120v/30a, not 230v. But that's OK. Digging more into the welder manual I found that even though its classed as a 30-175a welder, the circuit only need to be 20a. So that means I'll be modifying my compressor circuit to add an outlet for the welder.
Nothin but time, right?
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I done something similiar. Got a outlet on same circuit as the air compressor for my mig welder. [Just a super cheap welder]. Mine had a big plug on it also. Wonder why. Mine works find on a 30amp circuit. I just don't run air and welder at same time. Maurice
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Nothin going on this weekend. Spent most of the rainy weekend in Phoenix for a work-related conference. Brought the wife along so it turned out to be a nice weekend away. With a short week I won't get to the welder and motor mounts until Thursday. Will likely be rescheduling Thanksgiving dinner around kids arriving.
Everyone have a refreshing and peaceful Thanksgiving.
Everyone have a refreshing and peaceful Thanksgiving.
Had several hours in the garage yesterday while my wife worked on dinner and her ancestry project. With the short days of sunlight and long days at work it's a nice break to work on the 914-SHO.
Did get the wiring for the welder done. I just added a connection to the 230/20a circuit for the compressor. Welder testing will get done this weekend.
First I wanted to get the final mods to the trunk done. With the final rib gone on each side I should have no interference with surge tank or left head.
Also cut & drilled the pieces for the engine bar and mount disks. These sit on the 914's stock receiver where the stock engine bar hangs. Next step is to position the motor and locate the bar for final position.
Left
Right
Did get the wiring for the welder done. I just added a connection to the 230/20a circuit for the compressor. Welder testing will get done this weekend.
First I wanted to get the final mods to the trunk done. With the final rib gone on each side I should have no interference with surge tank or left head.
Also cut & drilled the pieces for the engine bar and mount disks. These sit on the 914's stock receiver where the stock engine bar hangs. Next step is to position the motor and locate the bar for final position.
Left
Right
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Did another test fit to verify dimensions before final drilling on the engine bar, and the bar receiver plate. I got the 3/8" clearance at the front oil pan, alignment at the drive hubs, and surprisingly really good alignment on the tranny mounts. I was expecting more than the 1/2" shown here, but I still have to mount the surge tank on top intake and check my height there.
OK did another fit today and added the surge tank. It definitely changes a few things. You can see that the surge tank wanted to hit the front firewall, so I needed to lower the motor and move it back 1/2 inch. This give me good height and clearance for the tank.
That means though that I don't have enough height for the biscuit mounts - they end up being too tall. That gives me plenty of clearance between the engine bar and the oil pan.
When I add the motor mounts on both sides - they do line up in the correct longitudinal position in relation to the engine bar, but when attached to the bar, they will close some of the large gap between the bar and the oil pan (to approx 3/8 in).
Left motor mount
Right motor mount
So overall the height and the length are proving to fit well. I only need to adjust the height between the engine bar and receiver plate. I figure I can do this with a thick high-density rubber washer.
With this longitudinal position of the motor, I get good tranny drive shaft alignment to within 1/4 inch back of centered.
I also get the large gap I was expecting at the rear tranny mounts. So I will have to come up with either a custom mount, or a custom adapter plate to mount the stock pieces.
I'm starting to get stoked now that it looks like it will really fit as planned. I'm hoping to get the mounting arrangement completed before the end of the year.
That means though that I don't have enough height for the biscuit mounts - they end up being too tall. That gives me plenty of clearance between the engine bar and the oil pan.
When I add the motor mounts on both sides - they do line up in the correct longitudinal position in relation to the engine bar, but when attached to the bar, they will close some of the large gap between the bar and the oil pan (to approx 3/8 in).
Left motor mount
Right motor mount
So overall the height and the length are proving to fit well. I only need to adjust the height between the engine bar and receiver plate. I figure I can do this with a thick high-density rubber washer.
With this longitudinal position of the motor, I get good tranny drive shaft alignment to within 1/4 inch back of centered.
I also get the large gap I was expecting at the rear tranny mounts. So I will have to come up with either a custom mount, or a custom adapter plate to mount the stock pieces.
I'm starting to get stoked now that it looks like it will really fit as planned. I'm hoping to get the mounting arrangement completed before the end of the year.
Looking good. I just notice the braces in the door opening. Nice design. Is the rear trans mount should go up to meet the sheet metal mount? It seems like the starter is going to hit bottom of car. I assume going to space it down. You know a lot more about these cars. Is it spaced down going to affect the half shaft coming out of the trans axle? Only thing I am concerned about is vibration and durability of the them? Maurice
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Maurice, I still have to determine if the rear trans mount needs to go up to meet the sheet metal mount. The gap shown is based on the centerline of the engine, so when I lowered the engine slightly the tranny came with it.
When I weld the motor mounts unto the engine bar, this will lift the motor slightly - but still not enough to close the gap at the tranny mounts. Even if the gap did close, the starter will not hit as it is in the stock position.
The half shaft position is my big concern. I can get by with a little movement longitudinally, and even vertically an inch either direction, so I'd like to keep the movement to less than that.
So the next step is to get the motor mounts welded onto the engine bar and see how that affects my gap at the tranny and position of half-shafts.
Just curious. I wasn't sure on your type setup. I know on motor in front and rear axle keep eye on driveline. So I put the trans back in same mount and put the center of crank in same place in engine bay as the 2.3 that was in it. Keep posting very interested see how it all works out. Maurice
Spent over five hours on the 914 today. Wish I had more to show for it. I started out getting the engine bar and motor mounts positioned so I could spot weld them in place. That went quite well.
Now its just a matter of doing another fit check to get the tranny mount offset and the new position of the engine bar on the receiver. I got the motor mounts attached and was able to get everything positioned correctly. I was even able to drop the engine bar onto the receiver with 1/4in thick washers I found as Ace.
From there I remeasured the offset at the tranny and it looks like the vertical offset will need to be 3/4in. The longitudinal alignment is right on the money.
So then I just needed to mark the hole center from the engine bar to the receiver plate - which I did with a black marker. At least I though I did. Once I pulled everything down and looked for my marks - nada! Turns out the marker was too fat to reach all the way through the bar - missed by 1/16in. So I get to do that part all over tomorrow. $#@$#@%!
Now its just a matter of doing another fit check to get the tranny mount offset and the new position of the engine bar on the receiver. I got the motor mounts attached and was able to get everything positioned correctly. I was even able to drop the engine bar onto the receiver with 1/4in thick washers I found as Ace.
From there I remeasured the offset at the tranny and it looks like the vertical offset will need to be 3/4in. The longitudinal alignment is right on the money.
So then I just needed to mark the hole center from the engine bar to the receiver plate - which I did with a black marker. At least I though I did. Once I pulled everything down and looked for my marks - nada! Turns out the marker was too fat to reach all the way through the bar - missed by 1/16in. So I get to do that part all over tomorrow. $#@$#@%!
Got the marks I needed on the receiver plates - now I just need to flood weld the old holes and redrill. Been a crazy week at work and now have some cold/sinus thing, so not sure how much I'll get to this weekend.
Stay warm.
Stay warm.
Last of my six days off so I needed to get something done. Spent the first four days driving over to TX and visiting my daughter for a couple days. Spent yesterday just catching up on stuff. But today I got some time on the project - mostly cleanup stuff.
Finished the welding & grinding on the engine bar/motor mounts. Decided to cap the ends also for a more finished look. Will get primer and paint soon.
Tried out the mig/gas welder I borrowed and not too thrilled with it. The wire feed is way too fast, even on slow and the welds build up too high. I could probably track faster, but that makes it harder to push the beads so they overlap.
End cap
Also replaced the casters on the engine dolly. The rubber like wheels didn't role easily after some time so I went with steel wheels rated at 175# each. Much better.
Finished the welding & grinding on the engine bar/motor mounts. Decided to cap the ends also for a more finished look. Will get primer and paint soon.
Tried out the mig/gas welder I borrowed and not too thrilled with it. The wire feed is way too fast, even on slow and the welds build up too high. I could probably track faster, but that makes it harder to push the beads so they overlap.
End cap
Also replaced the casters on the engine dolly. The rubber like wheels didn't role easily after some time so I went with steel wheels rated at 175# each. Much better.
