914-SHO Project Thread
- Thread starter 3d914
- Start date
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Thanks.
I know this is an over-simplification, so 9.8 * 14.7 = 144 psi. Undoubtedly there are many factors to get to the actual PSI, that's why I was asking if anyone knew it. I can't seem to find it documented anywhere either.
Continued to clean parts prior to testing. Got the O2 sensors cleaned along with the IAC (air by-pass). IAC was filthy - so it was likely contributing to cold start stumbling. I also checked all the injectors and all had good healthy spray of fuel. All held full pressure individually - so no leaking concerns. I did notice some cracking in all injector's black cushion rings so a new set is on order.
Should be ready for another test run next weekend.
See ya then.
Should be ready for another test run next weekend.
See ya then.
Well injectors seals are back on, fuel rails in, manifolds on, fuels lines are all hooked up and I'm ready to test this motor again.
But wait - daughters HS graduation is this evening so rest of the afternoon will be spent elsewhere. But I'll be back bright and early tomorrow to see how this runs.
But wait - daughters HS graduation is this evening so rest of the afternoon will be spent elsewhere. But I'll be back bright and early tomorrow to see how this runs.
Still seeing cold-start and RPM surging issues. See new topic here.
After long last - Yee Ha - I've got a good running SHO! :woo-hoo:
Spent the weekend working out the final bugs, here's what it took:
Rechecked O2 output and its now steady and w/in spec. Fuel pressure is holding properly. I need to recheck the IAC valve on a cold-start because the last values I got over the weekend didn't look good.
But it's sounding really good. The little bit of hunting at idle I think has to do with run time. I just need to get more time for the PCM to register settings.
Here's an updated video.
:woo-hoo:
Spent the weekend working out the final bugs, here's what it took:
- Added shielding for DIS cable extensions
- Fixed cracked and separated shielding in stock engine harness
- Fixed an intermittent main ground. Pin in plug was not seating completely. Sometimes had continuity, sometimes not.
- Similar pin problem with Coolant temp sensor. Replaced it with a spare I had.
Rechecked O2 output and its now steady and w/in spec. Fuel pressure is holding properly. I need to recheck the IAC valve on a cold-start because the last values I got over the weekend didn't look good.
But it's sounding really good. The little bit of hunting at idle I think has to do with run time. I just need to get more time for the PCM to register settings.
Here's an updated video.
:woo-hoo:
Had a good run today. With a single fan/shroud I borrowed from rbruso (Thanks!) I was able to run it longer. Did a 30 minute run today. I varied the rpm range every little bit and only let idle twice. Will do a 60 min run sometime this next week.
I checked the codes when finished. If I understand this correctly, the first 111 indicates the KOEO test passed, the second 111 indicates there were no continuous memory codes.
There were some codes that followed a single "1", but they are hard codes I've seen/fixed before, so memory is not clearing?
I checked the codes when finished. If I understand this correctly, the first 111 indicates the KOEO test passed, the second 111 indicates there were no continuous memory codes.
There were some codes that followed a single "1", but they are hard codes I've seen/fixed before, so memory is not clearing?
you will get the current codes first, displayed twice.
then you will get a single flash as a separater (1)
then you will get the stored codes, displayed twice.
it sounds like they are either still happening on occasion, or they are not being cleared.
then you will get a single flash as a separater (1)
then you will get the stored codes, displayed twice.
it sounds like they are either still happening on occasion, or they are not being cleared.
I agree - they are probably not clearing. I seem to remember having an issue getting them to clear on this PCM. I'll hook up a Gen-I PCM I have and go through the same process. If I get no stored codes that will tell. If I do get some stored codes, then I'll have to look more closely at the wiring for each.
intimdatr
Got Cams?
^that is what i do. Never had a problem with that way.
OK another good test run, this time an hour long. Got the codes to clear using the prescribed method above. Still getting codes on the IAC valve - which makes sense because the values were off when I tested it at cold start. Time to order a new one.
Other than that the run went well.
Other than that the run went well.
OK, well rainy season hit before gutters were finished so I've been dodging the rain. Got them finished up Friday though with the long weekend.
Spent today building a fixture for the car dolly weldments from some scrap wood. The weldments are made from 3-inch and 6-inch 1-1/2 inch sq tubing - all at right angles. So hopefully I can do a decent job of getting them to come out right. There are ten separate weldments.
Should be able to get some time during the week to begin welding, so I'll post some pictures as I do.
Spent today building a fixture for the car dolly weldments from some scrap wood. The weldments are made from 3-inch and 6-inch 1-1/2 inch sq tubing - all at right angles. So hopefully I can do a decent job of getting them to come out right. There are ten separate weldments.
Should be able to get some time during the week to begin welding, so I'll post some pictures as I do.
Here's the first of the three weldments. This is a three-way bracket for the lower four corners of the dolly. They're rotated at each corner so that each side gets one pass-thru and one butt joint. This allows me to adjust the fit. The lower cross pieces will be approx 54" in length, bolted at the butt joint and match-drilled and bolted to fit at the pass-thru end.
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Well it's been a couple of weeks but I haven't been idle. Got the dolly finished. The next time I have to drill this many holes I need to get me a drill press.
Now I just have to figure out how to get the body up on it.
Now I just have to figure out how to get the body up on it.
Maurice, good idea. The top comes off so I can get to the floor pan. Just not sure the pan would be strong enough to support the weight. But if I ran the chain through holes in the floorboard and around some steel tube that extended out to the main longitudinals - that would work.
I was just gonna use cinder blocks to work my way to the right height. That's how I got it onto the rotisserie before.
But, I'll look at that closer. Thanks.
