Ok so I'm doing my semi 120k this weekend. I need to do all this mainly because I just bought the car and have no maintenance records. I need the cam sensor replaced asap. I have the timing belt and water pump to replace. I also have valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, plugwell seals, plugs, wires, tb gaskets, and a new cam sensor. Anything else I may need to do this job or links to any site will be well appreciated. Thanks guys/gals.
91+ rebuild
- Thread starter blk\blk90
- Start date
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https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/collection-of-sho-repair-information-and-photos.136089/
SHOPhoenix Links:
Maintenance
http://web.archive.org/web/20090428070051/http://www.shophoenixproject.com:80/maint.htm
Modifications
http://web.archive.org/web/20090428070051/http://www.shophoenixproject.com:80/mods.htm
Finding Parts
http://web.archive.org/web/20090419010332/http://shophoenixproject.com:80/parts.htm
Apparently images from the page re: rod bearing replacement are missing, but now have been made available by a fellow member:
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/rod-bearings.139431/#post-1511327
SHOPhoenix Links:
Maintenance
http://web.archive.org/web/20090428070051/http://www.shophoenixproject.com:80/maint.htm
Modifications
http://web.archive.org/web/20090428070051/http://www.shophoenixproject.com:80/mods.htm
Finding Parts
http://web.archive.org/web/20090419010332/http://shophoenixproject.com:80/parts.htm
Apparently images from the page re: rod bearing replacement are missing, but now have been made available by a fellow member:
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/rod-bearings.139431/#post-1511327
Last edited:
luigisho
SHO Member
Chances are if you need a cam sensor you will need the cam seals replaced. Pull the sensor out and see if there is oil leaking on it.
So "lots" of work started today. Still trying to figure out posting pics so bear with me.
Bringing it to my new house.
Dirty rear VC vs "cleaned" front VC.
This is most of the RTV I pulled off the VC and plug well seals. You can still see some on the plug seals. Is this normal?
Gotta make sure with what you got.
There she is. Just a peek though!
Rear dirty VC vs front "clean" VC
Interior view of previous.
My new workspace/project.
Throttle body removed.
DIS mount. Maybe not enough heat sink stuff?
Bringing it to my new house.
Dirty rear VC vs "cleaned" front VC.
This is most of the RTV I pulled off the VC and plug well seals. You can still see some on the plug seals. Is this normal?
Gotta make sure with what you got.
There she is. Just a peek though!
Rear dirty VC vs front "clean" VC
Interior view of previous.
My new workspace/project.
Throttle body removed.
DIS mount. Maybe not enough heat sink stuff?
Ewww
Partial disassembly.
Full disassembly.
Time for a cleaning!
Still a lot of work to do! Most of those part are for the tundra. SHO parts are in the car.
Do I need any rtv for the VC's? And how do you clean the secondaries? Can you put them in the washer? Cause I'm probably going to...
Partial disassembly.
Full disassembly.
Time for a cleaning!
Still a lot of work to do! Most of those part are for the tundra. SHO parts are in the car.
Do I need any rtv for the VC's? And how do you clean the secondaries? Can you put them in the washer? Cause I'm probably going to...
The old plug well seals.
Other side.
Is this ok? When I said this engine was full of rtv, I wasn't kidding. Do I need to use any? In the corners yeah, but like this? I was scraping that shit out for a while. Until I learned that rtv doesnt like degreaser. Note to self: degrease first.
Other side.
Is this ok? When I said this engine was full of rtv, I wasn't kidding. Do I need to use any? In the corners yeah, but like this? I was scraping that shit out for a while. Until I learned that rtv doesnt like degreaser. Note to self: degrease first.
luigisho
SHO Member
That's alot more rtv than I ever used. It is needed on the rounded corners where the semi circles meet at the vc and heads. That's it for original setup. I have heard of people using it to get a better seal at the spark plug well seals.
Were you going to replace the crank position sensor as well? Unless you know it was a recently replaced item, you might as well since everything is apart. If it is still working, I would keep it as a spare.
sperold
Last to Know
The best way to get the bolt out is to use the starter motor.
Put a socket and short extension on the bolt and put a long bar on whatever is solid and bump the starter.
Put a socket and short extension on the bolt and put a long bar on whatever is solid and bump the starter.
luigisho
SHO Member
You need either an air gun or a way to get a good cheater pipe over a breaker bar or a strong ratchet and correct socket
KyngofPop
Freday-day
Can you not get the stater to even bump? That’s the most common way to get the crank bolt to break free without power tools.
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