89 mtx sho

[idc1233333]

I just purchased a 1989 SHO for $450 because it has a shifting problem. I absolutely love SHOs (my daily driver is a 1998 V8 SHO ). I have been told by a few people it sounds like I need a new clutch. They say maybe the throwout bearing isn't releasing the pressure plate. Whats happening is you cannot shift into gear normally. When the car is off you can run through the gears fine. However to drive you have to put the car in first then to shift pass 25 mph. Staying above 25mph you must put the clutch to the floor tap the gas and it will slide out of gear. To engage second you must rev it between 2,100 rpms and 2,500 rpms and it will slide in. You must do this all through the gears 35 for 3rd 45 for 4th 55 for 5th. It has 165,000 miles on the body and 80,000 miles on the engine. I heard that maybe there are two different sized clutches from gen 1 to gen 2. I don't know if this one has been changed if thats true. Any help would be appreciated. If it is the clutch how does the clutch come out or does the whole engine need to drop. Im not a mechanic but Im slowly trying to teach myself and forums like this help so much. :thankyou: I already removed the entire interior, it was taken over by mice. I live in RI and I think the only shop close to me is nesho (who are great guys). Once again any input is appreciated :wave:

 

[idc1233333]

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3310004 my V8 sho is on here. Ill be posting pics of the V6 sho (Tori) on this link too

 

[joesho_gb]

The Gen 1's had a cable linkage shifter, which were junk. Sloppy shifts and everything.
http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=index&catid=&topic=9
Troubleshoot and fix the linkage

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=81792
Convert the cable to a rod shifter, much better.
BTW - Although I'm not a huge fan of the Gen 3's, very nice looking one you have.

 

[idc1233333]

thank you very much. those links were very helpful.
if i do buy a regular SHO clutch or dxd clutch will it fit w/o that modification? now that i know about that i will defiantly look for the parts... money is the issue :/ so right now im just trying to get it road worthy.

and off topic the gen 3 is one of those cars where you hate it or love it. personally i love it but do like the looks of the gen 1 and gen 2 cars more

 

[shobote]

The Gen 1's had a cable linkage shifter, which were junk. Sloppy shifts and everything.
http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=index&catid=&topic=9
Troubleshoot and fix the linkage

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=81792
Convert the cable to a rod shifter, much better.
BTW - Although I'm not a huge fan of the Gen 3's, very nice looking one you have.[/QUOTE

Cable shifters are not sloppy unless the plastic ball socket is broken off; I prefer the cable to a rod shifter, and have the STS short shifter, much shorter and quicker shifts than a rod shifter, and also weighs 15 lbs less. It sounds like a TOB or broken PP probelm and not a shifter problem. IF the shifter is sloppy form the broken plastic ball socket, it will still shift without a problem.

 

[joesho_gb]

and off topic the gen 3 is one of those cars where you hate it or love it. personally i love it but do like the looks of the gen 1 and gen 2 cars more

I am/was never a big fan of the "oval" shaped Taurus from 96 to whatever year they changed body styles.
But, if I had to buy a Gen 3 Taurus, it would have to be a SHO.

 

[shotime1994]

If you have a 89 sho you have the smaller clutch. When you buy the new clutch kit it comes with a 9 and 3/4 inch clutch so you will need a new fly wheel.

 

[idc1233333]

the shifter is perfectly fine, it shifts when the car is off but its very tricky to shift it while the car is running like i said you have to get the timing just right. and sorry could you explain TOB or PP to me like im 4 haha, im still learning. And that red SHO is absolutely amazing.

 

[idc1233333]

thats what i thought. thanks shotime1994

 

[shobote]

TOB = throw out bearing PP = pressure plate Both are the most common failure points with stock clutches. It may be you have the OEM still in there with the smaller flywheel; my original 89 clutch lasted 140k. IF it has been updated, just get it resurfaced and put in the new clutch

 

[idc1233333]

Im 95% sure it hasn't been updated cause the kid i bought it from knew nothing about it. I was very happy to take it off his hands tho, it takes me back to my childhood in my dads 91 taurus. So all i have to do is buy a new clutch (does that include the TOB and PP) and a new flywheel (if it hasn't been updated)? Im obsessed with this car and it kills me to just look at it sitting in the driveway btw thanks for all the help :thankyou:

 

[idc1233333]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clut...rQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_4444wt_939

today is my research day before i buy parts so thank you for helping me. Like i said im on a tight budget and just want the car driving not racing. If i do not have the upgraded flywheel could i buy this or would this just be a waste of my time? Again :thankyou:

 

[sperold]

I remember from other threads that the small clutch (9 1/4") has a flywheel that looks like a piece of sheet steel and is comparitively thin. The later clutch (9 3/4") has a cast looking flywheel and is thicker.
I believe it was a recall early on (like 1990), so chances are you have the later clutch..... but, you have to take a look, maybe through the starter hole.
The good news is the flywheel is retatively cheap. You are going to be taking it out to have it resurfaced anyways.
If you want to limp along with the little one (if you have it), there are people on this forum who have bought it by mistake and couldn't return it, so they are out there. Not really recommended, but if you are tight for coin, it will be alot better than the one that is in there now.
The clutch kit will solve your problem. When your bite point is at the floor, the release bearing and pressure plate fingers are worn down, you will be noticing a vibration soon as the little fingers break off, one at a time.
All clutch kits are a variation of the Valeo clutch that Ford installed. If you are not wailing on your car, buy low because they last just as long. You very seldom wear out a disc, your release bearing and pressure plate fingers beat you to it.

 

[idc1233333]

Thank you very much. And actually i dont even have a bite point, as soon as you let off the brake the car drives even with the clutch pedal to the floor. But if the bigger one is that much better i will buy it instead. I bought this car just to tinker with and hopefully make it a track car one day but for now i just want her on the road.

 

[Titanium89sho]

Have you tried the clutch cable adjustment procedure? I thought my clutch or pp or tob was gone on my '89 and once I adjusted the cable, I got 25k more out of it with no issues. Search clutch adjustment procedure and it could possibly be a big saver for you. The cables do stretch over time, so this adjustment allows the slack to be taken up. My issues at that time sound similar to yours now. I had to rev mathc to get it into gears 2-5, and it would roll forward with the clutch to the floor in 1st and reverse. I would have to shut the car off to go between 1st and reverse unti lI adjusted the clutch.

Good luck, and hopefully it is an easy fix!
Jessey

 

[idc1233333]

thanks for your input titanium if thats all it was id be happy than pigs in you know what

 

[Bob Gervais]

I didn't take the time to read through a lot of the misinformation here, but here's the deal:

-89's came from the factory with a 9.25" clutch. They were later recalled to install a 9.75" clutch, and new larger flywheel to match. Chances are yours was changed to the larger unit.

-The 9.25" pressure plate is made with stamped steel. The 9.75" is cast iron. Pulling the starter and looking throught the starter hole into the trans with a flashlight, you should be able to tell which pressure plate you have.

-You have either a clutch, or clutch cable issue. Make sure the clutch cable doesn't have a lot of looseness in it, and that it's attached properly.


Where in RI?

 

[idc1233333]

Thanks bob, I live in little East Greenwich. I just did the clutch cable adjustment 10 times and heres some videos of the result... nothing I figured if i made videos everyone would understand what im talking about sorry about the crappy quality.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZVuBz0qqsw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coGXmT_LrfA

 

[Bob Gervais]

EG, not too far from me, I'm in Westerly (I say that like RI is a huge state... lol)

These cars are known for the clutch adjuster pawls not working. Did you use the pull up on the pedal, then depress the pedal method? If so, it could just be that your adjuster is not working properly. Not a big deal, it can be manually adjusted.

Hard to hear in the vid, however it doesn't sound like the clutch is making a ton of noise or rattling when the car is running. Could quite possibly be the clutch needing a manual adjustment.

Thanks for the vids too, it helped a lot!

PM me and we'll see if we can't get together at some point and I'll take a look see.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

We do have clutches if you need them: SHO Source

The stage 1 clutch has the reinforced straps which is a weak point on the clutch.