802SHO 2010 Build

[bpd1151]

This will be a long post. Good read if using the bathroom for a #2.

Whew! You weren't kidding! Lots of techy stuff here. I feel better now. Not entirely because of the massive amounts of info here in this post alone.....

But also because that healthy morning #2 always does the body wonders!



Ha! Always exciting reading the developments.



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[802SHO]

I sent an email to Aeromotive but no response yet but the math is legit and Brett C back in ‘23 was clear. If the XDI60 HPFP according to XDI needs 60 minimum psi pressure set the FPR to 70psi constant idling. 1:1 with boost.

1:1 boost manifold reference (key distinction) and boost reference is always inHG reference. My idle is -20 — -21inHG. -2inHG equals 1psi. That’s why the first time I tried manifold only it dropped from 70-60psi constant.

Answering my own question. To run the XDI60hpfp at 70psi constant at idle and 1:1 with boost (Manifold reference) then it MUST use the 75-120psi spring. 70psi constant with reference is 80psi constant with no reference…thus the 75-120psi spring.

Aeromotive FPR 13134 comes with a 30-70psi spring installed and a high pressure 75-120psi spring.

Seems obvious now. Also Brett who was my tech…it may have been obvious to him but the explicit details…eluded me with no experience OR knowledge lol.

Getting it right one part at a time. And I do the $20 version per month AI lol but that’s cheap Motorsport consulting at 100+ hours a month hahahahaha

 

[802SHO]

This car has been in commissioning…not competition.

Commissioning means the car gets put through controlled validation before it earns the right to be leaned on. Not just “it runs.” It means verifying systems…exposing weak links…confirming the hardware and calibration are actually doing what they’re supposed to do…and making sure the package is safe and repeatable before full-send ever enters the conversation.

Even I thought this thing would be ready to be pushed within the first month…boy was I wrong. And that’s exactly why commissioning matters.

A frozen BOV…minimum pressure feeding the XDI60 HPFP…little stuff like that is easy to laugh off until you realize that’s the difference between a car that survives and a car that gets hurt because somebody was too impatient to let the truth show itself.

Good thing I always sided with caution and didn’t push it.

Because if I had listened to excitement…or noise…I’d have been out there trying to make drag pulls and track runs on a car that was still quietly telling me where it wasn’t ready. That would’ve been stupid. This build was never going to be bolt it together…fire it up…go set the world on fire in 30 days. Not with this level of change. Not with this many systems touched. Not with this much custom work stacked on top of OEM logic.

This thing had to be commissioned.

And now that it is being commissioned properly…it’s doing exactly what it’s supposed to do…showing me the weak links before they become expensive lessons. That’s not delay…that’s progress. That’s not fear…that’s discipline.

And for the people still teasing and asking if it’ll ever be done…yeah…it will. I’m just not foolish to force a finish line onto a car that’s still revealing truth.

I want a result that survives. The car will be done when the car is actually done…not when spectators get bored.

 

[kryptto]

amen to that!

 

[Zpak]

Wisdom.

 

[802SHO]

After removing potential liars from the equation the car still stumbles so I did the appropriate thing and captured it in a log and sent to Ryan. Regardless looking at the fuel trims it’s way too rich idling. LTFT trims are -19 B1 and -21 B2. I went back and confirmed at least that part is not new. Shown in STFT before LTFT values were learned. I’ve done extensive research I’ve point Ryan to checking TIP and MAP scaling are correct and match. Ford 3bar factory TIP and my 3Bar MAP visibly match part numbers and if one value is off it may be close enough KOEO is in range: 30 inHg on TIP is basically atmosphere. 30 inHg absolute is about 14.7 psi, so: TIP ≈ 14.7 psi. MAP = 14.9 psi. BARO = 14.5 psi
But trims are rich and LTFT are now fully learned so Throttle lift get transiently ugly.
So I’m advocating for that to be verified and I’m looking for base map Revision 2 to arrive soon. Plan is now drive the car and get some good data asap. Converter swap after validation testing that the TCM no longer browns out under load and fuel trims clean up and no more rpm stumble.

Having been trying to get this calibration dialed in since ‘24….im now involved and do everything I possibly can, physically and mentally to deliver honest data for Ryan to work with.

Meanwhile I removed my Ford truck lettering and switched it up.
raw carbon underneath. Too bad the finish wasn’t good enough for paint of a couple holographic creases left behind from transport
Knifeless tape
This looks really close, Vvivid black square CF vinyl (what’s used everywhere else for CF)
Added the original SHO lettering from the OEM badge panted black
Also wrapped the panel above the deleted glove box
Then I added 3M Matte PPF (anti glare) to my infotainment screen and Tinker 10” digital Dash

Now back to waiting for Ryan from EMS and David from Tinker Electronics

 

[FrankK]

Andrew is your evap system still connected? If you have a leak there you will have problems with the fuel trims.

 

[802SHO]

Andrew is your evap system still connected? If you have a leak there you will have problems with the fuel trims.

Deleted (Fuel Cell). OEM control pre HPFP deleted

 

[802SHO]

New game plan. 3 stages. Mandatory order of survival.

I originally wanted to throw the Stage 3 Precision of New Hampton converter in first and then tune from there.

Changed my mind. That’s backwards.

This car is basically a ******* wild animal right now. The smartest thing I can do is reel it in first. Not stack more major variables on top of it and then pretend I’ll somehow get cleaner data after that. I won’t.

Stage 1 is the biggest and most critical stage.

Stage 1 = current converter + 93 octane.

This is the commissioning stage. The honesty stage. The safety stage.

This is where I sort out the rich idle crap. Sort out the throttle return stumble. Clean up deleted hardware code nonsense that could be affecting strategy. Verify the transmission power/control is actually back online and legit. Get real street data. Basically get the car to stop acting like a wild animal and start acting like something that can be trusted.

This is also the longevity stage. If something is off, I would much rather discover it on 93 than on E85. Lower consequence. Safer zone. Smarter place to find problems before they become expensive problems.

If the car can’t behave properly here, it has not earned anything else.

Stage 2 = Stage 3 Precision of New Hampton converter + 93 octane.

Once the car proves itself on 93 with the current converter, then it earns the converter.

That makes way more sense. At that point the engine side is already sorted, so the converter becomes the only major new variable. Much easier to see what changed and why. Much easier to separate driveline behavior from engine calibration behavior. Much less chance of pulling the trans twice because I got ahead of myself.

Stage 3 = E85.

Only after the car is already honest on 93. Only after the car is already honest with the new converter. Then it gets the fuel and power level it was really built for.

That is the final power stage.

So the order now is simple.

Stage 1. Current converter + 93. Commission the wild animal.

Stage 2. Precision converter + 93. Refine the driveline.

Stage 3. E85. Let it eat.

That’s the plan now.

Honestly I think it’s the only plan that makes sense for longevity, safety, sucess, and not doing the same work twice.

The converter is no longer “next because I already own it.”

The converter is the reward.

The car earns it by passing Stage 1 first.

 

[802SHO]

Last night I rewired my Prolink+. I had the Rife ground, Prolink+ ground and Converter ground all connected and relying on the MPVI3 plugged into the OBD2. I couldn’t remember which Prolink+ signal wire I used, I thought red but maybe it was blue. So I tested both and they both registered whack numbers -0/0 -0/1 idling. One didn’t have signal but could be a ground continuity issue, it was messy and unreliable.

Went back and opened it all back up. It’s now:

Rife ground, Prolink+ ground and 5V converter ground — chassis ground in the interior.

Rife signal (white) — Prolink+ signal (Red).

Rife Power (red) — 5V converter power (green).

Interior wiper motor switched 12 volt —power distribution block.

Converter 12 volt and Tinker 12 volt —power distribution block.

The power distribution block bus I wanted to test the Tinker dash on the slot I used to have the Converter power on last time and the Tinker dash powered up KO (Key On)

Ran out of time so later today I’ll retest the Prolink+ external input Rife 300psi sensor idling. It should read from 0-2psi, a range that could make sense but since boost is - it may be 0. Need a drive to really see. But at least now my grounds are shared on the chassis ground and I know it’s the red signal not blue.

One thing in VCM Scanner. When you add the sensor. It allows you to transform and AI gave me the scale, but you’re then forced to choose from a prelist of pressure sensors and the AEM 500psi is the closest. With my scaling for 0-300psi and description of Rife 300psi EMP, it populates to channels labeled as AEM. That’s absurd.
I’m actually interested in nerding out here and I can’t stand that I can’t label it and have it populate to channels as Rife 300psi EMP. I reached out to HP Support bc correct labels is not asking for a Moon Landing.
I’m not sure why you can’t just add your external input, label it, scale it and choose unit as in PSI and done? But at least I got it on their radar.

After the wiring was done I used some mini ZBAD1 magnets to secure the Prolink+ out of the way for easy access.
If I need more switched 12 volt I can easily grab it here, 3 more slots up for grabs.

Still waiting for Ryan. Driving soon. Holding off on the converter means driving sooner than later and I’m pumped.

 

[802SHO]

For $240 these direct fit Halogen (compatible with our wiring connectors/harness) all black/amber headlight housing, all bulbs included…..I had to try them out.

I’m not mad at it. Can swap anytime back and forth.
I’ll use some light smoke tint on the front blinker part and do my signature vinyl eyebrows. Not as tough but kind of also looks sharper (arguably).

 

[kryptto]

they look fine

 

[802SHO]

they look fine

Less drag

 

[76FoMoCo]

This is the prettiest garage queen and the most expensive. If we can only get it on the track and off the runway.

 

[802SHO]

Map scaling was wrong. Now it’s correct. Dead system DTC baggage is also cleaned up. Massive improvement and no idle dip or choke.
The idle log Ryan reviewed back in November was rich bc MAP and TIP were not both scaled to 20.167 -2.162. It was hunting or guessing yet KOEO was showing no gross sensor mismatch. Yet when Ryan reviewed the original base map idle log he then instructed me to give it a drive. Do a steady state light throttle input and WOT blip. With a baseline that was already lying.

I have learned so much but honestly I never had LTFT and STFT issues so I could stare at it and think…nothing really. I could see Lambda and notice Brad kept it at .80 WOT. I’d just see a pattern. When I learned more about Lambda getting involved in considering my primary o2 sensor placement wasn’t good enough…to move them post turbo is when I really understood Lambda more. In simple terms like usually GDI EcoBoost run .85 and that’s leaner. Brad likes .80 and likes to say it gives margin and also has a cooling effect. So leaner hotter, richer cooler….ok. But bc of my o2 placement post manifold the error was going to show leaner than actual. So Brad’s .80 in logs was likely .76-.78. Super rich. Explaining the black smoke on WOT (blacker than regular catless downpipe) and very strong fuel smell.

After moving them post turbo with premium wideband extension harnesses I had Brad target .82 and that was in the middle of what he liked and what it could have been .85. But still STFT and LTFT…dunno what I’m looking at bc never needed to know specifically.

During the stumble I had ChatGPT5.4 look at some parameters and my LTFT and STFT it red flagged. Car was consistently removing 20% fuel. I look back in the original base map log bc now I learned what the **** it means and same thing. LTFT was basically 0 in that log bc it was a fresh flashed tune but my STFT were -19.5/-20/21 and Ryan said nothing. Well no, he did say to go out and drive it.

I didn’t catch this, Ryan didn’t catch it…ChatGPT did. wtf.

Chat said if I would have went out and drove it the foundation would be built off a lie.

Not the beginning I had imagined but it wasn’t driven and it’s good now but I’m perplexed.

Getting ready for a weekend test drive I’m going to throw on a couple street test filters instead of my own front mounted intakes (mostly bc I’m tired of that look lol) and get some data.

 

[kryptto]

very interesting and to be fair to the coding and match powers of AI I gotta hand it to it.

 

[802SHO]

very interesting and to be fair to the coding and match powers of AI I gotta hand it to it.

I’m loyal to my ECU. Period.

Truth over politics. Results over feelings.

Make the file match the car. Make the data match reality. Make the system honest.

That’s the whole game.

 

[802SHO]

I finally figured out where my disconnect was with CELs and DTCs on a stripped-down build like this.

When a code pops up on a normal car, my instinct is simple: something is wrong, fix it now. And usually that’s correct, because the hardware is still there, the system is still active, and the ECU is flagging a real fault that can affect drivability from mildly annoying all the way to full piece-of-shit mode.

But on this build, I had the exact opposite situation and was still mentally treating it the same way.

My human brain was going: that part is deleted, so ignore it…race car.
The ECU was going: cool story, I still think that system is on the car and now it looks failed.

Big difference.

So now look at the combo: OEM fuel tank deleted, no in-tank LPFP control, no EVAP, PCV recirc/valves deleted and vented to atmosphere, cruise module disconnected, electric BOVs deleted, A/C refrigerant gone, etc. Then I’m over here going WOT wondering why the car feels confused, ****** off, and weird.

Meanwhile the ECU is basically waving 10+ codes in my face saying: Hey *******, from my point of view this car still has all this stuff and it’s all broken.

And that was the disconnect.

Because when I see a DTC tied to something that is actually still installed, I’m trained to take it seriously and fix it immediately. That instinct is correct. But when the system is intentionally gone, I was sort of doing the opposite… mentally ignoring it because I knew it was deleted, while forgetting the ECU has no clue unless the calibration is changed to match reality.

So yeah, deleted-but-not-calibrated-out is basically the same as failed in the ECU’s eyes. That means disabling this stuff in the tune is not cosmetic cleanup. It’s not just “make the dash shut up.” It’s foundational. The tune has to reflect the actual car, otherwise you’re asking an OEM ECU to manage a vehicle that only exists in your head.

So the real lesson here is this:

On one hand, I’ve spent years seeing a DTC, respecting it, and fixing the problem right away.

On the other hand, I deleted half the car, left the ECU thinking it was all still there, then went WOT like: I don’t know, man… it just seems unhappy for some reason.

Meanwhile the ECU was already giving me the answer like an exhausted babysitter:
“PCV failed. EVAP failed. Fuel system control failed. Electric BOVs failed. A/C pressure low. Missing modules. Reduced confidence in your decision-making. Recommend adult supervision.”

 

[Jordan_R]

Getting the piggybacks (any system that is nonoem in additon to your build) to play nice and have everything jive is an art itself. It's a long battle and anybody who's saying you're taking too long has not experienced this level of build. This isn't a carbed 350 that you just rejet and twist some screws.

 

[Sleeper.Solutions86]

The problem is the green oak ECU. Andrew is better off with a 2013 ECU. There more control and better support for it.


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