Hey @Jordan_R never looked close enough - you using regular Ford radiator hoses - or did you make your own silicone - or buy them pre formed from a known vendor - curious.
802SHO 2010 Build
- Thread starter 802SHO
- Start date
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Did you mean me? OEM hoses and the UPR dual valve catch can hoses are visible
Radiator specifically
Yeah OEM radiator and hoses
Just was wondering thanks!
I’m not sure if you guys remember but a while back when I first started my air suspension install I had used my rear seat delete panel from @aaron240 to mount the tank and manifold. My cousin helped and we came up with this. 
So many PTC bulkheads leaked……I guess every time a hard line was custom bent and test fitted to the PTC fitting…it was ruining the fitting. PTC (push to connect) are supposed to be reusable. These fittings turned out to be some of the most pathetic things I’ve ever used in my entire life. The worst was when I was trying to get the PTC cartridge on the Airlift manifold to seal in the tank connection and from putting it in and out repeatedly….(since all you can do is push it in) it ruined the rubber seal and air would blow right out of it. Airlift was nice enough to warranty the manifold but would not send me back an NPT manifold, they sent me another (new) PTC manifold.
So with the new manifold and being afraid of hurting the PTC (should stand for PATHETIC) I went to all plastic DOT lines to just get it operational so I could start adjusting my struts and fitment. My setup went from fancy to lame quick
So this layout on the rear seat delete panel was already drilled and getting a new seat delete panel was….something I was trying to avoid. Wasn’t sure what to do exactly with this……until…LevvelAir started selling anodized fittings that were PTC converted to AN (army navy) with soft rubber braided hoses….and I thought…this could work.
Well, it did! In fact, at a later date, I could convert my entire air system to all NPT to -6AN and only have PTC at the manifold itself. But for now I’m still using 1/4 NPT to 3/8 PTC on my front bags, and my rear bags are also 1/4 NPT to 3/8 PTC. So this I could convert and delete PTC and I will….but not right now. So this is the new setup that works!
I stripped the panel and started vinyl wrapping it. I simply covered the holes on the sides that used to be for air speed control. I also ruined the rear of this ghost metallic dark grey trying to cut a piece….i cut through all layers of the roll…so after this piece for the top all I had left over were cut strips hahahaha! Damn! So the bottom is ghost matte metallic black and the back…but the front top is grey…
The PTC bulkheads were much larger than these -6AN bulkheads so I decided to use stainless steel washers that I drilled to fit the AN bulkheads and my son suggested I burn them with a blowtorch to make them sort of blue.
I also switched from one chrome compressor to 2 black compressors and was also able to convert the water trap tank feed fitting to -6AN as well.
So we got no PTC here except the manifold itself…I was tempted to not use the rear seat delete panel bc this setup with 2 compressors is heavy for what it is…I’d say about 50lbs total…including the panel…the panel is only like 8lbs so it was worth keeping as it just lets me have this nice presentation inside the car. Is what it is type of thing.
I laid down a thin rubber mat under the panel. Next was making the rear lines.
I then got one compressor going to get the bags aired up so I could put the car on the ground and open the doors all the way to run the second compressor wiring harness through the car and firewall. Success
No leaks!!! What a major accomplishment for myself to overcome these damn PTC fittings. Literally the LevvelAir conversion from PTC to -6AN saved my installation plans with the rear seat delete panel. Only thing left to do is finish the manifold empty hose line (dumps air out when you release air to lower the car) and bolt the panel down to the back seat. So basically done and on to the fuel cell!
So many PTC bulkheads leaked……I guess every time a hard line was custom bent and test fitted to the PTC fitting…it was ruining the fitting. PTC (push to connect) are supposed to be reusable. These fittings turned out to be some of the most pathetic things I’ve ever used in my entire life. The worst was when I was trying to get the PTC cartridge on the Airlift manifold to seal in the tank connection and from putting it in and out repeatedly….(since all you can do is push it in) it ruined the rubber seal and air would blow right out of it. Airlift was nice enough to warranty the manifold but would not send me back an NPT manifold, they sent me another (new) PTC manifold.
So with the new manifold and being afraid of hurting the PTC (should stand for PATHETIC) I went to all plastic DOT lines to just get it operational so I could start adjusting my struts and fitment. My setup went from fancy to lame quick
So this layout on the rear seat delete panel was already drilled and getting a new seat delete panel was….something I was trying to avoid. Wasn’t sure what to do exactly with this……until…LevvelAir started selling anodized fittings that were PTC converted to AN (army navy) with soft rubber braided hoses….and I thought…this could work.
Well, it did! In fact, at a later date, I could convert my entire air system to all NPT to -6AN and only have PTC at the manifold itself. But for now I’m still using 1/4 NPT to 3/8 PTC on my front bags, and my rear bags are also 1/4 NPT to 3/8 PTC. So this I could convert and delete PTC and I will….but not right now. So this is the new setup that works!
I stripped the panel and started vinyl wrapping it. I simply covered the holes on the sides that used to be for air speed control. I also ruined the rear of this ghost metallic dark grey trying to cut a piece….i cut through all layers of the roll…so after this piece for the top all I had left over were cut strips hahahaha! Damn! So the bottom is ghost matte metallic black and the back…but the front top is grey…
The PTC bulkheads were much larger than these -6AN bulkheads so I decided to use stainless steel washers that I drilled to fit the AN bulkheads and my son suggested I burn them with a blowtorch to make them sort of blue.
I also switched from one chrome compressor to 2 black compressors and was also able to convert the water trap tank feed fitting to -6AN as well.
So we got no PTC here except the manifold itself…I was tempted to not use the rear seat delete panel bc this setup with 2 compressors is heavy for what it is…I’d say about 50lbs total…including the panel…the panel is only like 8lbs so it was worth keeping as it just lets me have this nice presentation inside the car. Is what it is type of thing.
I laid down a thin rubber mat under the panel. Next was making the rear lines.
I then got one compressor going to get the bags aired up so I could put the car on the ground and open the doors all the way to run the second compressor wiring harness through the car and firewall. Success
No leaks!!! What a major accomplishment for myself to overcome these damn PTC fittings. Literally the LevvelAir conversion from PTC to -6AN saved my installation plans with the rear seat delete panel. Only thing left to do is finish the manifold empty hose line (dumps air out when you release air to lower the car) and bolt the panel down to the back seat. So basically done and on to the fuel cell!
Thank you for explaining to those of us that haven't attempted to do this. It looks like an art project, quite beautiful. Glad you worked out the issues and taught us all through your trial and error.
Those Michellin tires are hawt.
Bronco2fan
SHO Member
Really sharp looking set-up. Much nicer than PTC for sure. That's way more than I'll ever do to mine, but nice to look at.
Well, there’s always the XDI60 that Xtreme-DI has in their possession since April 23…..just to change the inlet to 0 degree and well that was done within the first couple weeks, been sitting waiting for them to flow test it.
I’ve been slammed busy with work so that doesn’t help. But I’m indecisive about the location of my oil sump tank for the turbos. I don’t have much space for it in the middle unless it’s up high, like under the exhaust manifold. Since I’m using a scavenger pump….im not sure it matters too much….but either the tank sits about level with the turbos but under the alternator …with the front turbo having more hose to reach the tank, or it’s above the turbos more in the middle. ..ideally want it lower so it kind of has some gravity fed to the sump, then pumped out and up …but since the whole thing will be getting sucked out with the pump, maybe it’s ok to leave it up high, and not sure it matters too much if one turbo oil drain hose is longer than the other…less than ideal but with a scavenger pump…does it matter? Also just the lack of space …it kind of has to go where it can fit. So…battling with space restrictions …and not being able to put it where I’d want to…below turbos in the middle. Time to think about pros and cons of it being off center or high center. All good progress, needs to happen one way or another. Just I don’t always work on things in order.
Also cleaned up to start the fuel cell install. When a task gets completed its like a bomb of tools went off….so working late…then get out in the garage, look around and it’s like, all messy and unorganized ..spending time putting tools away..taking down a table to make more room….half focused on that then trying to route the oil drain sump tank and what orientation will work…I’m a bit of a scatter brain ..so clutter is my enemy. Pick something up to put it away…..then see something I still need to test fit…then see I still need to clean up…and what did I do for those few hours in the garage…kind of not much lol! Lots of those days. But I finally got the JMS Boost max I bought over a month ago, just want the harness, believe I can use it to help the new lpfp work…or maybe I messed that up and the JMS throttle max or that one was the one I needed. Believe I just need its throttle position wiring harness.
Lots of minor things that are critical and important that can’t be overlooked or rushed. But no matter what, it’ll be done soon, this season! 100%
I am far from the person to ask, however I can Google too. I searched a few racing build sites, and well here is this sites explanation - see link. The sad part with no room, near the bottom of the oil pan.
How to Build Racing Engines: Sumps and Oiling
Lubrication is the critical lifeblood of every racing engine. Without it, the engine’s lifespan is measured in seconds. The oiling system is designed to deliver a constant supply of clean, filtered oil to properly lubricate all of the engine’s moving parts. This includes the engine bearings...
me and my bookie are looking forward to it. lots of popkorn and peanuts sacrificed to this project. we need the dough to help us melt all the weight we have put on.
That’s a great article and man, a dry sump oil system is so RACE CAR!! That would be awesome!I am far from the person to ask, however I can Google too. I searched a few racing build sites, and well here is this sites explanation - see link. The sad part with no room, near the bottom of the oil pan.
How to Build Racing Engines: Sumps and Oiling
Lubrication is the critical lifeblood of every racing engine. Without it, the engine’s lifespan is measured in seconds. The oiling system is designed to deliver a constant supply of clean, filtered oil to properly lubricate all of the engine’s moving parts. This includes the engine bearings...www.musclecardiy.com
I’m not talking about the same type of system. For the turbos in a remote mount configuration, in my case in the front of the engine and below the oil pan…well barely below, I need to scavenge the oil return and need to use a pump. But it’s not that simple. In order to have a system that doesn’t lead to excessive oil consumption of the turbos you need to run the oil return into a sump tank, with filter.
After I made my post I sent an email to Turbowerx to ask about the location of my oil return dry sump, if it’s better to have it low near the turbos which bc of space means it would be off center, with the rear turbo (passenger front) having about 1’ of hose to the sump and the front turbo (driver front) having 3’ of hose to the sump, or if it would be better to have it more center with equal length hoses but at the cost of having it mounted well above the Turbos…using the scavenger pump…which would be better or does none of it matter bc of the power of the pump?
Let me divulge a little. The pump is Turbowerx “base-model” pump…but get this, it’s designed to scavenge hot turbocharger drain oil from anywhere to anywhere in automotive applications. Time-tested, proven reliability over years, and with its 1.75GPM (105GPH) scavenging capacity, it is powerful enough to scavenge oil from most twin turbo setups. It will self-prime/draw from over 8 vertical feet, and pump the oil as high as 20 vertical feet! Whether the application moves 1 oz of oil a minute or up to 1.75 gallons a minute, 'under-flow' applications are no problem. In fact, the TurboWerx pump may be run dry indefinitely. May be operated up to 60PSI pressure for pressure applications. It’s one **** of a pump! So it might not matter too much even though it’s less than ideal, that one oil drain hose is 3 times as long or if it was mounted above the turbos.
This is where I mocked it up, under the alternator.
It’s made for a twin turbo setup and comes out a single -8AN return with an inline 100 micron filter to the scavenger pump, back to the rear OEM turbo drain. I can’t mount it under the radiator inbetween the chassis splitter mounts, and I could do the driver side but it would be the same orientation, one side longer than the other.
I could mount it on the subframe closer to the center but not by much. As is I checked the oil filter, I can get it off and back on with the fitting directly below it. Or I could make some bracket to use the bolts that go on top of the exhaust manifold but that would put it higher but more center…but also hotter.
1) will different length oil drains work just fine with the suction of this powerful pump
2) or is it more important the oil drains are the same length, more so than the height?
3) the different length oil drain hoses are insignificant and so is the height, the pump will easily pump the oil out of the turbos, into the sump and back into the block. Fluid flow won’t be compromised bc of an extra 2’ on one side.
I’m not concerned with the pump whatsoever. Just where to mount the sump. I’ve got over 1k into AN fittings and hoses, and it can take me up to 3-4 hours to make 6-8 hoses…learning as I go lol. I don’t want to waste anything so I need to decide on the location of the turbo oil sump and it’s basically done…feed, return, pump. Until then it’s on hold.
Today I got the new custom Rotora brackets for their forged 2 piston calipers I bought for my Voodoo13 hydraulic handbrake!
These are based directly off the same plane as the OEM knuckle caliper brackets. And would require 4 OEM caliper bolts. The idea is, to help make this setup easier to fabricate, will be to cut the caliper brackets off the old set of knuckles I have
Then weld them on to the new knuckles at the same plane as the originals, then I can use OEM caliper bolts to bolt these new brackets to the knuckle and add the 2 piston calipers….
Rotora was kind enough to help out and make these brackets!
That looks like a great place for your custom mount, based on your earlier pictures I was wondering where the f you would find space. Thanks for the education and product you are using. That looks like a great location near the turbos.
Andrew, we all know you are busy, and thank you for taking the time to indulge us all with the story of this build. It is amazing the people that have helped Jordan, vendors, others and such should be proud of the work that has and continues to be done.
We all thank you for sharing and allowing us to bust your balls like I/we do.
We all thank you for sharing and allowing us to bust your balls like I/we do.
studio460
SHO Member
802SHO:
I also bought the Rotora calipers, front and rears, for my 2019 SHO PP. I haven't installed them yet because I thought we needed some kind of "spacer" and didn't know which one(s) were required. Is the Rotora kit as-delivered, plug-and play with my 2019 SHO; i.e., no spacers required? Thanks!
The calipers are thicker so if you’re on OEM wheels you will likely need a spacer. Probably fine with aftermarket wheels. Can just put one wheel on gently, maybe put some painters tape on the side of the caliper….if your spokes of your wheel touch…then yeah, if they don’t then no. The Rotora kit is plug and play. Everything you need to install everything for the brakes is there. But if your OEM wheels touch then might need to get a 5mm spacer. Likely need spacers.
studio460
SHO Member
Awesome! Thank you very much for the help! FYI: I put 2012 Ford factory SHO wheels (powedercoated black) on my 2019 SHO PP (which I'm guessing is the same ID as the 2019 factory wheels). Is there another dimension spec'd for the spacers? I just searched NAPA for "caliper spacers" and one set comes up: "NAPA Caliper Spacer Kit Part #: NCP 2643031 (no dimensions given).
Wait—do I need spacers for the calipers or the wheels? Thanks!!!
Wait—do I need spacers for the calipers or the wheels? Thanks!!!
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