802SHO 2010 Build

[802SHO]

Can you remove the TC and see what the space looks like after you drop the engine down to where it needs to be? It might give you a better idea of what you need to do.

I had the front of block and trans lined up and lowered it straight down and the rear turbo is hitting the steering rack. So measuring off the bolt holes from trans to block it needs to be lowered an additional 4”. I came at it lower and straight on as well and it was closer to 3” as some of the compressor cleared the rack with it lower.

The trans and PTU were left installed when I removed the engine so the trans and PTU aren’t interfering with anything it’s the rear turbo location and size of turbo.

 

[802SHO]

Pic supplied by @Jordan_R you can see the hybrid GH Gen3R turbo is same as OEM and hugs the exhaust manifold/block. So as well as my rear turbo being a bit larger, it’s also too far out from block.

 

[Bluezone]

I don't know if this would work, but what about the 2009 Taurus steering rack and a Volvo power steering pump? That is if nothing else works.
One other thing the turbos need to be relatively level. Otherwise you can run into oil drain problems.

 

[Bluezone]

Can you remove the V band clamp on the turbo and drop the motor in and see exactly what clearance issues you have with the Motor In? This way you can check for any other issues before you start tackling problems with the rear turbo clearance. With the motor roughly in position that way the issue might be smaller or larger.

 

[802SHO]

Can you remove the V band clamp on the turbo and drop the motor in and see exactly what clearance issues you have with the Motor In? This way you can check for any other issues before you start tackling problems with the rear turbo clearance. With the motor roughly in position that way the issue might be smaller or larger.

I like seeing where the clearances are with everything attached and measuring off the block to trans to determine how much closer the Turbo needs to get to the block. However there’s no right or wrong way to go about figuring out how to make this work so any idea is a good idea to try. I might try that.

 

[bpd1151]

I would imagine (& I honestly do not know) that it might be wise to account for more clearance than not, to allow for the motor rocking under throttle, yes?

I'm just thinking that if you barely cram it in there, without much extra clearance, it could potentially be problematic under real life operating conditions.

Interesting watching the repetitive fitment attempts. But as others have said, where there's a will, there's a way and you've more than displayed your perseverance.

Continued successes moving forward for you Andrew!

 

[SHOthyme]

I mean, do you really need steering, you're going in a straight line right?

 

[FiveLeeter918]

I mean, do you really need steering, you're going in a straight line right?

Power Steering Delete! Drop in a Flaming River Manual Rack and let's get to town

 

[802SHO]

More interior fun. Got my Braum B-Pillar harness bar in. At some point I’ll get my Takata 4 point seat belt harness in. Picked up an Innovative Motorsports Ethanol gauge(with harness, fuel sensor) the OBDLinkMX+.

A while back when I removed my stock steering wheel with my cousin, I had him checking it out to verify he could wire up some aftermarket paddle shifters. He has been into robotics since he was about 15 years old. Now 21 he’s no stranger to wiring, let alone working on his own car projects. He’s always a great helping hand to have around. His take on wiring up another set of paddles was that it would be easy. Ok, let’s hope he can wire up this (Works Bell) universal paddle shifter kit with wiring harness to the existing harness that used to attach to the stock steering wheel. After the engine is finally in and everything is together and running (Just went for attempt 4 on fitting the turbos, still not quite in but getting closer) I’ll get my cousin back over and put him to the test, of which I’m sure he’ll ace. I’m going to challenge him to do a write up as well. So I should still retain M (manual) gear select with the aftermarket steering wheel.

Real Carbon Fiber, pricey too so let’s hope he can deliver!

 

[Jordan_R]

Beautiful!

 

[Bluezone]

Man that looks sweet.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

Very cool! I'm not seeing a lever on the paddles, is it activated by the buttons is there a hidden lever mechanism for shifting?

 

[802SHO]

Very cool! I'm not seeing a lever on the paddles, is it activated by the buttons is there a hidden lever mechanism for shifting?

Wiring is inside the housing, that’s why it’s so thick, coming from each end and meet in the middle, and all wires are hidden bc the Sparco quick release is installed on top.

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

I mean, do you really need steering, you're going in a straight line right?

I like where your head is at.

 

[jasong_10]

They look great. How effective is your manual mode? Mine is terrible, like an 800 rpm lag between hitting the paddle and the actual shift, car feels way better just in drive.

 

[802SHO]

They look great. How effective is your manual mode? Mine is terrible, like an 800 rpm lag between hitting the paddle and the actual shift, car feels way better just in drive.

I agree and 95% of the time I just leave it in Drive but I do like to control it from time to time, it is possible to anticipate the delay and adjust the timing to shift but what I mostly use it for is a quick reset of my octane adjust ratio. I’ll probably get 10 or more tune revisions to the my new setup and each flash to the ECU resets OAR to 0 regardless of premium fuel. I feel like I don’t have the time to drive it all around after a long day to get some tune data (I will however do the recommended break-in procedure) I just want to flash it and go out and get the data and I don’t want it pulling timing and spark bc it isn’t sure what’s in the tank yet, so I’ll put it in 4 and 5th gear at really low mph 35-40 and give it some gas…..lugging it is the term many ppl call it….it’s a horrible position to make it perform at such a low speed in such a high gear…..so it drinks (chugs like a man) fuel like it’s at a party…..I’ll just be watching my OAR climb and by the time my 8-10 min drive is complete to where I can do my data log it’s -.96 every time. I’ve got a method lol! And it works. But I need M mode to force it to operate that way. Honesty I’m not even sure that’s good for it.

Otherwise I’ve tried the “drive it like normal” method to get OAR back up after a tune flash and I’ve seen it still super low after 25-30 min with occasional spirited driving…..I don’t have time for that lol!

 

[jasong_10]

I agree and 95% of the time I just leave it in Drive but I do like to control it from time to time, it is possible to anticipate the delay and adjust the timing to shift but what I mostly use it for is a quick reset of my octane adjust ratio. I’ll probably get 10 or more tune revisions to the my new setup and each flash to the ECU resets OAR to 0 regardless of premium fuel. I feel like I don’t have the time to drive it all around after a long day to get some tune data (I will however do the recommended break-in procedure) I just want to flash it and go out and get the data and I don’t want it pulling timing and spark bc it isn’t sure what’s in the tank yet, so I’ll put it in 4 and 5th gear at really low mph 35-40 and give it some gas…..lugging it is the term many ppl call it….it’s a horrible position to make it perform at such a low speed in such a high gear…..so it drinks (chugs like a man) fuel like it’s at a party…..I’ll just be watching my OAR climb and by the time my 8-10 min drive is complete to where I can do my data log it’s -.96 every time. I’ve got a method lol! And it works. But I need M mode to force it to operate that way. Honesty I’m not even sure that’s good for it.

Otherwise I’ve tried the “drive it like normal” method to get OAR back up after a tune flash and I’ve seen it still super low after 25-30 min with occasional spirited driving…..I don’t have time for that lol!

Gotcha, I can understand that.

 

[Autox4fun]

please add a few layers of heat protection to that wastegate actuator... don't need that diaphragm getting all melty on you

 

[802SHO]

Engine fits!!! Bc…..going top mount with a hood exit exhaust! Instead of “trying to make room” I’m going to utilize the real estate that’s already there by relocating the battery and intake. Approved by my engine builder and he recommends about 3ft of exhaust to not accidentally suck in fresh air and throw off the o2 sensors.

Matching the G25 turbine inlet vbands with 2.25” stainless and 3” stainless turbo downpipe/exhaust. Let the fun begin! I’ll be able to do anything turbo and wise at my finger tips. They’ll actually get cooling from my Race Louvers hood vents. The PTU will get less heat. Each turbo will get a PTP turbo blanket so the rear turbo won’t cook my brake master cylinder and the front turbo won’t add unnecessary heat to the top of the trans.

It’s going to look sweet to pop the hood that’s for sure. I’ve been debating to go top mount for about a week, had to just shake off the fear of the unknown. Would adding 1.5 to 2ft of piping to my manifolds ruin my build? Would it have too much lag? Would it fall on its face? I don’t think so. Turbos will definitely breathe with very little exhaust. 2.25” piping will be easy to run them over to where I’ll have plenty of room. It’ll be a smooth transition too and retain some velocity. Keeping it as compact as possible as recommended by @Bluezone.

I could go with a power steering rack, but not know it’s dimensions until “after” buying it….potentially it still doesn’t work…potentially it does and then I think maybe I can chop up my tear turbo downpipe …..but maybe I chop it up and for whatever reason it just doesn’t work….then I’m out for the price of the rack plus I just turned a sellable set of downpipes into scrap metal. Want to keep it as simple as possible. Adding piping to the manifolds and just moving them to a better spot doesn’t get any more simple than that.

Now the real fun begins and I actually know what I need to do…..haven’t felt that way in a few weeks. So I’m excited.

Will it be optimal… don’t think so….but is it better than OEM location and hybrid turbos? I think so. Maybe we can speculate that if it was more optimal of a setup it would have ran 9.99 instead of 10.3! LOL! I see a stand alone engine management system in my future.

Side note: picked up more Race Louvers from @aaron240 to put a set in the rear bumper. And got new hardware for all, not doing rivets I’m doing nuts and bolts, black bolts. I want to easily take them off for whatever reason (vinyl car wrap)?

 

[Bluezone]

If I recall Ford chose the stock turbos for three reasons. First was quick spool, second easily available (price) and 3rd was compact enough to fit in the space. So going top mount when Ford wouldn't, makes perfect sense.