This fuse keeps blowing everytime I turn the parking lights on. No parking lights, tail lights, nor cluster parking lights. This only happens when I turn the parking/head lights on. With that said, is it possible that the parking/headlight **** switch is bad?
#4 fuse blows...'89
- Thread starter TYSHO
- Start date
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Switch is good, tested w/new unit.
I've now disconnected every light bulb on the fuse circuit, to see if would be the problem, and the problem still exists. The only thing I have yet to test on the circuit is the "chime for headlights on" module, where ever that is. Can someone help explain to me where that module is? Is it possibly the same one that chimes when the keys are left in the ignition? If so, that chimes when the keys are left in.
Also, as soon as I turn the key into the "on" position, the cooling fan turns on for about a second or two, then shuts off. I've never had this happen until this fuse popping has occured.
Can anyone shed some light here on my situation?
Thanks!
I've now disconnected every light bulb on the fuse circuit, to see if would be the problem, and the problem still exists. The only thing I have yet to test on the circuit is the "chime for headlights on" module, where ever that is. Can someone help explain to me where that module is? Is it possibly the same one that chimes when the keys are left in the ignition? If so, that chimes when the keys are left in.
Also, as soon as I turn the key into the "on" position, the cooling fan turns on for about a second or two, then shuts off. I've never had this happen until this fuse popping has occured.
Can anyone shed some light here on my situation?
Thanks!
Ferendon
New Member
call it a long shot, but it sounds like a grounded wire... Check in the drivers floor pan, under the carpet, there's a few wires there that tend to get wet and muddy, and with the mud as an abrasive and your feet as pressure, rubber doesn't last long. One of them may be grounded out on the floor pan or something. I'm just basing this off of recalled information, and general knowledge. HOPEFULLY it'll help. 
After finishing up some work on the car, the fans now act proper. No more goofy crap.
Now, I've noticed that my chime doesn't work for crap. So I'm convinced that's the reason, possibly. Can anyone describe the looks of this and the location? I'm going to try a search, but my CPU is not worthy for this type of stuff, at times, so any help is great.
BTW I have no wires under my feet on the floor board, well at least grounded that is. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Now, I've noticed that my chime doesn't work for crap. So I'm convinced that's the reason, possibly. Can anyone describe the looks of this and the location? I'm going to try a search, but my CPU is not worthy for this type of stuff, at times, so any help is great.
BTW I have no wires under my feet on the floor board, well at least grounded that is. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Autolamp switch Q
If the autolamp switch is bad, can it burn out the headlight switch, for the parking lights only?
I have been trying to track this fuse blowing problem down, described here http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=27774 , and now wonder if this autolamp switch is the cause.
When the autolamp switch is disconnected, my fuse does not blow when the headlights are on, as it would everytime when connected. My side markers work, when the signal is put on, but not the signal lights theirselve. Also, when in the headlight "on" position, the only lights on are the two front headlights. These same lights would be on when the fuse was burnt, but the side markers did not work, as now they do w/out the fuse burning out, due to the autolamp switch being disconnected. So is it possible that when the autolamp switch was connected, it burned out the "parking light" part of the headlight switch, which then would over load the circuit to blow the fuse?
If anyone can answer this, please do so. I'm not all that smart in electrical circuit wiring and have been on this problem for weeks, and weeks before I even posted the first thread. Now I have to make a 450 mile round trip Friday night/Saturday morning and don't want to recieve any tickets for no taillights at night. Thank you for reading.
If the autolamp switch is bad, can it burn out the headlight switch, for the parking lights only?
I have been trying to track this fuse blowing problem down, described here http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=27774 , and now wonder if this autolamp switch is the cause.
When the autolamp switch is disconnected, my fuse does not blow when the headlights are on, as it would everytime when connected. My side markers work, when the signal is put on, but not the signal lights theirselve. Also, when in the headlight "on" position, the only lights on are the two front headlights. These same lights would be on when the fuse was burnt, but the side markers did not work, as now they do w/out the fuse burning out, due to the autolamp switch being disconnected. So is it possible that when the autolamp switch was connected, it burned out the "parking light" part of the headlight switch, which then would over load the circuit to blow the fuse?
If anyone can answer this, please do so. I'm not all that smart in electrical circuit wiring and have been on this problem for weeks, and weeks before I even posted the first thread. Now I have to make a 450 mile round trip Friday night/Saturday morning and don't want to recieve any tickets for no taillights at night. Thank you for reading.
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
I merged these threads since separate threads on the same issue are a pain in the *** to try to follow and should be avoided.
I recall seeing a thread either here or at the TCCA site that described corrosion in a connector in the door threshold (don't recall which side, think it was driver's) that would cause significant problems. My suggestion is to pull the trim up and insect the wiring harnesses for damage/corrosion, etc.
Unlikely, however the short circuit that is in your car may have burned it out.
Steve
I recall seeing a thread either here or at the TCCA site that described corrosion in a connector in the door threshold (don't recall which side, think it was driver's) that would cause significant problems. My suggestion is to pull the trim up and insect the wiring harnesses for damage/corrosion, etc.
Unlikely, however the short circuit that is in your car may have burned it out.
Steve
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