3 row rad?

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supra dave

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i have looked for a new rad. something with great heat transfer and have come up empty handed. is there anything that will fit? its looken like i have to just get some kinda universal rod. if any one has info on a rad let me know.
 

RiceeatingSHO

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Is it not cooling good enough? They do make dual cores, i have a single and it cools just fine for me...in Alabama.
 

Brett

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Theres alot of boosted and track SHOs running stock cooling systems with no problems. A dual core even is a bit over **** for most people and conditions.
 
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Theres alot of boosted and track SHOs running stock cooling systems with no problems. A dual core even is a bit over **** for most people and conditions.

agreed,im in Florida and ive never had cooling problems with SHO's.
And if you use the larger radiator you can't use the larger 5.0L Mustang oil filter,it simply won't fit anymore.
IMHO id rather have that extra bit of oil and filtering capacity.
 

Kens1992mtxSHO

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If you really, really, really want to upgrade your radiator then go double core, but as stated it's not necessary. Stock cooling system does just fine.
 

K-Dawg

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I have a 3 core that is the same thickness as the 2 core Taurus radiators. You can find them on eBay for like $55 from time to time. I still used the big oil filter on my MTX with the 3 core, even with the subframe slid all the way forward.

The Taurii that came from the factory had 2 core radiators, and the replacements used to be cheaper than the stock radiator. The only modding you have to do is drill two new holes in the core support for the over flow tank screws.
 

JEM

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agreed,im in Florida and ive never had cooling problems with SHO's.
And if you use the larger radiator you can't use the larger 5.0L Mustang oil filter,it simply won't fit anymore.
IMHO id rather have that extra bit of oil and filtering capacity.

Really?

I've got the 2-row radiator in my '91 with the 3.6, stock fan shroud, the quart-size Wix 51515 (Fram PH8A-equivalent) filter fits fine. Mind you I've got the Gen 3 subframe, which doesn't make any more engine-to-shroud clearance but it does move the crossmember the **** out of the way for working on the lower front of the engine.

Now, with the 2-row radiator the manifolding off the AC compressor made too much contact with the fan shroud for me to be happy with, likewise some of the ABS hardware at the left end of the radiator, but the oil filter wasn't a problem.

I moved the ABS relay bracket under the ABS valve, which ate the space where the horns were, and I want to keep the rest of that space for the cruise control diaphragm (if and when I get around to reinstalling it) so I need to score some smaller horns that'll fit out in the bumper the next time I'm at the junkyard.

Since I'm running the ATX coolant bottle in the fender and had a bunch of room right in front of the compressor anyway, I cut up the AC manifolding and had it TIGged back together to put all the messiness in the now-vacant MTX coolant bottle space:

http://www.milleredp.com/gallery/v/jem/motion/SHO/AC/

These pix show both lines pointing straight down, which didn't prove usable in the end (the line to the accumulator needed to be longer to have enough flex in it, and having a springlock in there ate too much of the hose length) so I had to cut it again and put a hose-barb end on there pointed off a little to the left to make the hose loop about 120 degrees, but it gives you the idea.

And for what it's worth, the two-row radiator is probably overkill unless you've got forced induction or some other significantly-greater-than-stock heat load issues. Especially if you relocate the battery to the trunk (a win all the way 'round) and convert to the ATX coolant bottle to free up the extra 1.5sq ft of radiator core otherwise blocked off by the MTX bottle. I did the two-row radiator because of the extra 20% of displacement and thinner bore walls in my 3.6, I wasn't taking any chances. The temp stays wedged right in the normal range all the time. I did see 260degF pan oil temps on the track at the convention in 65degF ambient, so I'm not quite so sure about the oil cooling capacity.

(just aside - measuring a radiator by the number of 'rows' is useful only if comparing radiators with the same tube size and construction. Copper-brass tubes are smaller, so a 'two-row' aluminum radiator has as much if not more surface area than a 'three-row' copper-brass unit. Core thickness is a better metric unless you know you're comparing apples to apples.)
 
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Lance Cheney

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Really?

I've got the 2-row radiator in my '91 with the 3.6, stock fan shroud, the quart-size Wix 51515 (Fram PH8A-equivalent) filter fits fine. Mind you I've got the Gen 3 subframe, which doesn't make any more engine-to-shroud clearance but it does move the crossmember the **** out of the way for working on the lower front of the engine.

My 2-row Godan unit also fit fine with the factory fan shroud.

That was, until the bottom of the rad support got pushed in a bit during an off-track excursion. Then I had to cut a tiny bit off the fan... (it got pushed far enough that one of the Sho Shop header pipes are about 1/8" from the shroud).

-Lance
 

JEM

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My 2-row Godan unit also fit fine with the factory fan shroud.

That was, until the bottom of the rad support got pushed in a bit during an off-track excursion. Then I had to cut a tiny bit off the fan... (it got pushed far enough that one of the Sho Shop header pipes are about 1/8" from the shroud).

I think if I were willing to address such a problem with a shade-tree fix I'd hook a chain on the bottom of the radiator support, put the other end around my Sub's hitch ball, and give it a little tug.
 

DeaconBlue

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The Godan 2-row, ATX over flow bottle, MTX shrouded fan, stock a/c line routing and larger oil filter in the stock location has worked well enough in my car with both the Gen I/II SF and the Gen III SF setups. Now granted with a 1" thicker radiator and the SF shifted forward (to maximize positive caster), things are a bit tighter than from the factory, but I can still get the larger oil filter off-on.

With the 180 degree thermostat, lower than stock fan settings and the factory shrouded MTX fans in place, I have not had any over heating issues with the 3.0L or 3.4L engines in the heat of the Summer. Now with the a/c on and stuck in stop and go traffic - I have seen the temperature gauge start to raise with the stock hood. Not sure in the Cincy cowl hood would help or not since I have had the opportunity to check it out yet.
 

yamahaSHO

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Theres alot of boosted and track SHOs running stock cooling systems with no problems. A dual core even is a bit over **** for most people and conditions.

MOST (probably 90%+) boosted SHO's are running on a dual-core radiator. Before an external oil cooler, the dual-core didn't keep my car cool.
 

RJ-92

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MOST (probably 90%+) boosted SHO's are running on a dual-core radiator. Before an external oil cooler, the dual-core didn't keep my car cool.

Also running a dual core with and external oil cooler. Had to do it after oil was seeing 260+ @ Watkins Glen. Stay nice and cool now.
 

yamahaSHO

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Ron, do you have any pics of your oil cooler setup? I couldn't find anything to model mine after when I put mine together. I'm curious to see what others have done.
 

RJ-92

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Ron, do you have any pics of your oil cooler setup? I couldn't find anything to model mine after when I put mine together. I'm curious to see what others have done.


I can get some this weekend for you. I have it mounted infront of the rad to the lower left (driver side). I am also running a remote oil filter mount on the driver side inner fender well.
 

yamahaSHO

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Sweet, I am looking forward to the pics. Here are the ones I took of mine when I was mocking up the bracket.

2674893_50_full.jpg


2674893_81_full.jpg


2674893_84_full.jpg


-12AN lines
2674893_87_full.jpg
 

yamahaSHO

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Yes, the sandwich has a built-in T-stat. That's the Mocal heavy duty unit... I haven't found anything of the like with such large passages.
 

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