3.5l oil pressure issue poll. How did you fix it

How did you fix the 3.5 oil pressure warning?

  • Thicker oil/ non synthetic

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Not fixed, engine failure

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    2

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Joined
Sep 6, 2023
Messages
870
Reaction score
1,078
Location
Florida
Keep in mind the car did have the water pump replaced because of water contamination, some of that milkiness could be some residual water from that or just condensation. I pulled cyl 2 plug and it was clean, swapped around the coils to try and follow the misfire. I'm just unsure of the amount of oil in that little box, is that a lot? Last pcv valve I replaced was in a valve cover on a 351.
 

BradM

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2022
Messages
377
Reaction score
339
Location
60010
Keep in mind the car did have the water pump replaced because of water contamination, some of that milkiness could be some residual water from that or just condensation. I pulled cyl 2 plug and it was clean, swapped around the coils to try and follow the misfire. I'm just unsure of the amount of oil in that little box, is that a lot? Last pcv valve I replaced was in a valve cover on a 351.
That looks like water to me. Condensation would be burned off after 800 miles for sure. But you did add Lucas, not sure what that makes oil look like.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2023
Messages
870
Reaction score
1,078
Location
Florida
2000 mile update, still no oil pressure light, I've gotten more comfortable with the car (not cringing at stop lights waiting for the alarm) a few more kinks to work out but I'm seriously leaning toward the dealer using the wrong oil and an inferior oil filter. 1000 miles to next oil change and I'll update again
 

kryptto

The Best Thing About Cars... ones in my mirror.
Joined
Mar 24, 2023
Messages
3,196
Reaction score
2,066
Location
South East, Florida
2000 mile update, still no oil pressure light, I've gotten more comfortable with the car (not cringing at stop lights waiting for the alarm) a few more kinks to work out but I'm seriously leaning toward the dealer using the wrong oil and an inferior oil filter. 1000 miles to next oil change and I'll update again
glad to hear - and TBH - dealerships have to be the worst - just have to be. I had been told they pay their mechanics 1/2 the labor rate for warranty work as opposed to say doing a brakes job. My father caught a Chrysler dealership in the 90's "not" changing the oil. They would wipe down the oil filter and skip changes, yet of course charge you even though they were skipping changes.

My current car had rear passenger door damage - after the transmission was replaced by the dealer - didnt catch it when I left - then they feverishly denied any wrong doing.

Had a Oldsmobile Alero - first year out - UGH - never do that again - lemon lawed, fought GM - WON - took to dealer for turn over - the manager - said where is the owners manual - told me he wouldnt allow me to surrender it without it = cause they wanted it on the used car lot = I called GM direct - said he was blowing up the surrender deal - since nowhere did they say I needed the manual to turn the car in, just a tally of body damage bigger than a dollar bill.

Paid to have for convenience my Scion tC replace both front struts.... they replaced the tower bolts, and swapped the shock inside, BUT NOT THE assembly I was billed for.

Invoice:

One video of the strut 10K after repair... sure the bearing plate of the brand new assembly just broke... both front strusts were in the same condition.


The list goes on and on.... so don't be deterred or shocked they are a - holes!
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20220703-074322_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
    Screenshot_20220703-074322_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
    197.1 KB · Views: 3

BradM

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2022
Messages
377
Reaction score
339
Location
60010
2000 mile update, still no oil pressure light, I've gotten more comfortable with the car (not cringing at stop lights waiting for the alarm) a few more kinks to work out but I'm seriously leaning toward the dealer using the wrong oil and an inferior oil filter. 1000 miles to next oil change and I'll update again
Good to hear but the real test will be the next oil change without Lucas.
 

jtreber

SHO Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
257
Reaction score
242
Location
Indiana
glad to hear - and TBH - dealerships have to be the worst - just have to be. I had been told they pay their mechanics 1/2 the labor rate for warranty work as opposed to say doing a brakes job. My father caught a Chrysler dealership in the 90's "not" changing the oil. They would wipe down the oil filter and skip changes, yet of course charge you even though they were skipping changes.

My current car had rear passenger door damage - after the transmission was replaced by the dealer - didnt catch it when I left - then they feverishly denied any wrong doing.

Had a Oldsmobile Alero - first year out - UGH - never do that again - lemon lawed, fought GM - WON - took to dealer for turn over - the manager - said where is the owners manual - told me he wouldnt allow me to surrender it without it = cause they wanted it on the used car lot = I called GM direct - said he was blowing up the surrender deal - since nowhere did they say I needed the manual to turn the car in, just a tally of body damage bigger than a dollar bill.

Paid to have for convenience my Scion tC replace both front struts.... they replaced the tower bolts, and swapped the shock inside, BUT NOT THE assembly I was billed for.

Invoice:

One video of the strut 10K after repair... sure the bearing plate of the brand new assembly just broke... both front strusts were in the same condition.


The list goes on and on.... so don't be deterred or shocked they are a - holes!
Might have been more common than we want to believe. In my youth I worked for a Pontiac dealer after school as a lot boy. It was common to see a mechanic skip the oil change, blow out the air filter with the compressor and re-install, take the plugs out and if they looked decent, put them back. And pocket all the new parts. Can only hope things are different today.
 

Ta2dResqr

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
1,208
Reaction score
1,144
Location
Central Ohio
glad to hear - and TBH - dealerships have to be the worst - just have to be. I had been told they pay their mechanics 1/2 the labor rate for warranty work as opposed to say doing a brakes job.
Not sure which side you are looking at here so I will tell you both of them from someone that works in the field.

Warranty time vs. standard repair time - Any work that is done under warranty is charged (and paid out) at a lower labor time. For example, let's look at a water pump job on our EcoBoost Taurus. Standard labor time is 13.4 hours. This is developed by a study. From what I understand, they take 3 technicians and in a shop with all the tools there and ready, time how long it takes each of them. Then they average the time. For comparison, Warranty time for the exact same job is 8.9 hours. These are all book times. An experienced tech with no problems may do it faster, but they still get paid their hourly rate times book time. On the flip side, a new guy fighting rust, broken parts, needing to borrow tools, etc. may take longer but, he still only makes book time.

This brings up the other thing you may be talking about, Shop Labor Rate vs. Tech Hourly Rate - Many shops operate on flat rate. How many hours you work means nothing. It is all based on book times. You are paid your hourly rate times book time no matter what it actually took you. This is also how many shops charge a customer. You pay the book time no matter how long it took the tech. Average Labor rate is $75-130/hr for 2022 in the US. Let's use the nice round $100 number. Same water pump job. The shop will charge the customer $1340 in labor. When I got out of flat rate, I was an ASE Master Certified Technician. I had 11 ASE certifications. At that time, it was pretty standard to get $0.50/hr added to your pay rate per certification (an extra $5.50). This pushed my hourly rate to $25/hr. That means the shop charged the customer $1340 and I got paid $335 (1/4 of the labor charge). Newer techs with less certifications would make even less and the shop would charge the same amount. Now if it was a warranty job, I would have to do the same amount of work but, I would only get paid $222.50. To make matters worse, all those expensive tools and tool boxes you see are provided by the technician. It is nothing for a Snap-On tool box to cost $5000 (this is just a decent bottom box), air tools to be a few hundred dollars each, etc. All this to say that the labor charge you see on your bill is not what a technician sees and their goal is to get your job done as fast as possible (without a comeback because something they just fixed needing warranty) and get the next car in the door.
 

kryptto

The Best Thing About Cars... ones in my mirror.
Joined
Mar 24, 2023
Messages
3,196
Reaction score
2,066
Location
South East, Florida
Not sure which side you are looking at here so I will tell you both of them from someone that works in the field.

Warranty time vs. standard repair time - Any work that is done under warranty is charged (and paid out) at a lower labor time. For example, let's look at a water pump job on our EcoBoost Taurus. Standard labor time is 13.4 hours. This is developed by a study. From what I understand, they take 3 technicians and in a shop with all the tools there and ready, time how long it takes each of them. Then they average the time. For comparison, Warranty time for the exact same job is 8.9 hours. These are all book times. An experienced tech with no problems may do it faster, but they still get paid their hourly rate times book time. On the flip side, a new guy fighting rust, broken parts, needing to borrow tools, etc. may take longer but, he still only makes book time.

This brings up the other thing you may be talking about, Shop Labor Rate vs. Tech Hourly Rate - Many shops operate on flat rate. How many hours you work means nothing. It is all based on book times. You are paid your hourly rate times book time no matter what it actually took you. This is also how many shops charge a customer. You pay the book time no matter how long it took the tech. Average Labor rate is $75-130/hr for 2022 in the US. Let's use the nice round $100 number. Same water pump job. The shop will charge the customer $1340 in labor. When I got out of flat rate, I was an ASE Master Certified Technician. I had 11 ASE certifications. At that time, it was pretty standard to get $0.50/hr added to your pay rate per certification (an extra $5.50). This pushed my hourly rate to $25/hr. That means the shop charged the customer $1340 and I got paid $335 (1/4 of the labor charge). Newer techs with less certifications would make even less and the shop would charge the same amount. Now if it was a warranty job, I would have to do the same amount of work but, I would only get paid $222.50. To make matters worse, all those expensive tools and tool boxes you see are provided by the technician. It is nothing for a Snap-On tool box to cost $5000 (this is just a decent bottom box), air tools to be a few hundred dollars each, etc. All this to say that the labor charge you see on your bill is not what a technician sees and their goal is to get your job done as fast as possible (without a comeback because something they just fixed needing warranty) and get the next car in the door.
Thank you for explaining, I had a very watered down explanation provided - but along the lines of what you explained in better detail here. My statement is not an "attack" on the workers - in my world the workers attitudes and workmanship are reflective of the management and the pressure they get from dumb surveys - which make things worse. I know - without knowing there are many mechanics here on these forums - so not looking to **** you all off. Its just a bummer to spend that kind of money at a dealership - and not deserve better. This does explain how many might "rush" jobs to just get paid without any stake in the game. I am assuming if your work comes back - that might then have to be done gratis of your time as the mechanic, thus lowering your income.
 

Ta2dResqr

SHO Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
1,208
Reaction score
1,144
Location
Central Ohio
Thank you for explaining, I had a very watered down explanation provided - but along the lines of what you explained in better detail here. My statement is not an "attack" on the workers - in my world the workers attitudes and workmanship are reflective of the management and the pressure they get from dumb surveys - which make things worse. I know - without knowing there are many mechanics here on these forums - so not looking to **** you all off. Its just a bummer to spend that kind of money at a dealership - and not deserve better. This does explain how many might "rush" jobs to just get paid without any stake in the game. I am assuming if your work comes back - that might then have to be done gratis of your time as the mechanic, thus lowering your income.
Very much so. That does not take away from what you are saying at all. There are bad apples in the bunch. If I don't change the plugs or oil or whatever, it takes me less time but, beyond being stealing and immoral, is that going to cause a problem that comes back to bite me in the ass. Personally, I just work harder to get better, buy tools that make the job faster, learn tricks, etc. I believe in Karma so I wasn't willing to skip work that a hard working customer paid for because I didn't like the rates a shop paid. Tool boxes have wheels for a reason. You get better and move on and up.
 

kryptto

The Best Thing About Cars... ones in my mirror.
Joined
Mar 24, 2023
Messages
3,196
Reaction score
2,066
Location
South East, Florida
Very much so. That does not take away from what you are saying at all. There are bad apples in the bunch. If I don't change the plugs or oil or whatever, it takes me less time but, beyond being stealing and immoral, is that going to cause a problem that comes back to bite me in the ass. Personally, I just work harder to get better, buy tools that make the job faster, learn tricks, etc. I believe in Karma so I wasn't willing to skip work that a hard working customer paid for because I didn't like the rates a shop paid. Tool boxes have wheels for a reason. You get better and move on and up.
Thank you - and yes I work with the same level of integrity. Honest work for honest pay - and own up to my short coming and move on.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2023
Messages
870
Reaction score
1,078
Location
Florida
Good to hear but the real test will be the next oil change without Lucas.
Absolutely, although I can't help but wonder if there may be some benefits to it. If the light stays off without the lucas I might just run it in the next change. I keep forgetting I bought a test gauge, just got busy - post surgery catch up. Now I have to work out this thermostat issue that has magically appeared, first cols morning and now the car won't warm up, maybe another dealer short cut?

Love hearing the integrity here though, I dont trust any shop, I sold parts to all the locals here and saw enough to do my own work. Integrity and a good days work has just escaped this country, not to get political but it's just sad. And if my car was worked on by over stressed under paid mechanics then I have my work cut out for me, I'll just fix it piece by piece, love driving the car too much to give it up, the gem green helps too. To anyone that saw an opportunity to skimp or take advantage of someone and chose to do the right thing, thank you, there's too few of us left.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2023
Messages
870
Reaction score
1,078
Location
Florida
Results are in. She rolled 100k and I did a before and after oil pressure test. 1 test warm old oil with lucas, 1 test cold new oil, warm new oil, warm new oil plus lucas.

Old oil w/ lucas warm: idle 11psi / 1500rpm 54psi
New oil cold: 44psi
New oil warm: idle 10psi / 1500rpm 36psi
New oil warm w/lucas: idle 11psi / 1500rpm 44psi

I think the range was around 36psi at 1500 rpm for proper oil pressure so I'm going with the engine is healthy and ford had the wrong oil in it. I put the lucas back in it for peace of mind as well as to see a difference with fresh oil as a control.

Also, checked my catch can at 1000 miles since I installed it and had a little puddle in there. So I know it's working and the engine is happier for it. What do you all think?20231028 115220
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,098
Messages
1,181,372
Members
16,160
Latest member
tinkerkathleen

Members online

Back
Top