3.5l oil pressure issue poll. How did you fix it

[SHOdded]

Another "possible" reason for low oil pressure issues. Also watch this video, good info.

some in the eb community have run 10w30 or 5w40 oils but never reported results.

mact is now doing such tests with his ecoboost(s), 2019 2.0 edge and 2017 3.5 xsport. let's see ...

one thing already noted is that filter choice is important. the carquest filter the xsport came with is a thumbs down. purolator boss a thumbs up. time will tell tho.

 

[kryptto]

Nothing wrong with the Ford stock oil filter - inexpensive and very well built: not my words but a trusted source:

YT Ford Tech Makuloco

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

some in the eb community have run 10w30 or 5w40 oils but never reported results.

mact is now doing such tests with his ecoboost(s), 2019 2.0 edge and 2017 3.5 xsport. let's see ...

one thing already noted is that filter choice is important. the carquest filter the xsport came with is a thumbs down. purolator boss a thumbs up. time will tell tho.

I'm taking this site down the rabbit hole with me and trying to report as much as I can so maybe this thread can be a good guide. There's been a lot of knowledge already shared here and I'm very grateful for that.

So far day 3 post oil change to Castrol gtx synthetic blend 10w30 with Lucas additive (the oil wasn't my first choice but the only 10w30 blend in stock) and no lights, running a motorcraft fl500s filter. I'm going to check the other areas this weekend and as long it all looks good and the light stays off I'm going to run it to the 3k mark and change to a different brand oil but keep the 10w30 through winter since we plan to go north with the car in January.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

I also wanted to point out the before the oil change peeping in through the oil fill while the car was hot the oil was flowing even with the light on, it was splattering around, after I changed the oil there was less splashing and a nice web/film of oil running down over the fill hole and the cam. Good sign I'd imagine

 

[RandR10]

I had this same issue. This was after I bought the car with ~121k on it. Dealer maintained on extended warranty (which had just run out). PO had just changed turbos, again dealer repaired. I checked the oil when I picked it up and it was down a quart. Filled it up, drove it home, changed the oil and kept an eye on it. Was using a quart about every 500 miles. I found it had the PCV/oil separator failure mentioned above, which I repaired. An oil change later it ate another set of turbos (~126k now). I fixed that and while I was in there I found coked oil in the turbo inlet screens. 600 miles later I got this same low oil pressure condition. I tested it with a manual gauge and it read 15 psi. Changed oil again (oil had 600 miles on it from turbo repair), and same pressure with different (I even went with a different brand this time) oil. I opted with the other signs of multiple turbo failures with coke in the oil system to start over from scratch and replace the engine with a low mileage engine. I figured after the expense of a new oil pump, timing set and water pump while I'm in there, I could spend a little more and have a 'new' (8k miles from a wrecked 2015 explorer cop car) engine. I do not regret the decision at all. I've put almost 80k on it since with zero issues with the motor. 5k oil change intervals using full synthetic 5w-30. Uses zero oil between changes, which is a first for me on any car. I moved cross country after that and never had a chance to dig into the old motor before I sold it as a core. If you figure this out beyond just running heavier oil keep us posted. My guess on mine is the PO did the suggested 7500-10k oil changes using motorcraft blend and combined with that oil separator failure the oil deteriorated to the point of carbon buildup, which is abrasive, which then started to cause either excessive bearing wear or oil pump wear. When I started with the short OCI it probably lifted some of the deposits and accelerated the condition. Can't be sure without actually going inside the engine though. Oh, I forgot to mention I had one cylinder that was slightly low on compression and excessive blowby (pressure on oil fill with hand over it, even at idle), which contributed to my decision to bail on that engine altogether. These will all be things you'll want to check into before you start in with the parts cannon.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

I had this same issue. This was after I bought the car with ~121k on it. Dealer maintained on extended warranty (which had just run out). PO had just changed turbos, again dealer repaired. I checked the oil when I picked it up and it was down a quart. Filled it up, drove it home, changed the oil and kept an eye on it. Was using a quart about every 500 miles. I found it had the PCV/oil separator failure mentioned above, which I repaired. An oil change later it ate another set of turbos (~126k now). I fixed that and while I was in there I found coked oil in the turbo inlet screens. 600 miles later I got this same low oil pressure condition. I tested it with a manual gauge and it read 15 psi. Changed oil again (oil had 600 miles on it from turbo repair), and same pressure with different (I even went with a different brand this time) oil. I opted with the other signs of multiple turbo failures with coke in the oil system to start over from scratch and replace the engine with a low mileage engine. I figured after the expense of a new oil pump, timing set and water pump while I'm in there, I could spend a little more and have a 'new' (8k miles from a wrecked 2015 explorer cop car) engine. I do not regret the decision at all. I've put almost 80k on it since with zero issues with the motor. 5k oil change intervals using full synthetic 5w-30. Uses zero oil between changes, which is a first for me on any car. I moved cross country after that and never had a chance to dig into the old motor before I sold it as a core. If you figure this out beyond just running heavier oil keep us posted. My guess on mine is the PO did the suggested 7500-10k oil changes using motorcraft blend and combined with that oil separator failure the oil deteriorated to the point of carbon buildup, which is abrasive, which then started to cause either excessive bearing wear or oil pump wear. When I started with the short OCI it probably lifted some of the deposits and accelerated the condition. Can't be sure without actually going inside the engine though. Oh, I forgot to mention I had one cylinder that was slightly low on compression and excessive blowby (pressure on oil fill with hand over it, even at idle), which contributed to my decision to bail on that engine altogether. These will all be things you'll want to check into before you start in with the parts cannon.

I'll definitely keep this thread alive while I figure it all out, so far I'm not seeing any oil consumption and the internal parts I can see don't suggest a poor maintenance schedule but I am definitely looking into the pcv/ oil separator situation and the turbo screens which was news to me, didn't realize that was a thing until last week or have the slightest idea how to check/replace them. It'll be an adventure you're all invited for. If it ends up being a multiple symptom ordeal I'll likely do the same as you and find a low mileage engine to stuff full of new parts.

 

[BradM]

The turbo screens won't cause low oil pressure, they'll just starve the turbos of oil. Fairly easy to remove and clean IMHO.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Update: Ive put about 60+ miles on the car every day this week, everything from stuck in traffic in 100 degree florida weather to more "spirited" driving and the light is still off, oil is still full, and im just falling in love with this car even more. I am helping a friend work on their jeep this weekend, and then the rest of my fleet needs work so I am going to push any more inspections off another week as long as the light is staying off. so far, the oil has resolved the issue (or at least prolonged the inevitable) but I am more convinced the Lucas may have helped more than the weight of the oil. My brother recommended the Lucas and the blend as a "to save this engine its already half dead but if you have to drive it this will keep it alive a little longer" he's a real optimist but what are big brothers for. the plan is still to check the trouble spots youve all added here in a week, check the actual oil pressure with the gauge I just bought, and to change oil at the 3k mark to 10w30 without Lucas to see if it'll sustain, then in spring back down to the 5w30.

 

[BradM]

If Lucas saved you then yes, the engine is tired and the bearings are on their last leg IMHO. Getting the actual oil pressure will be very telling.

 

[kryptto]

Update: Ive put about 60+ miles on the car every day this week, everything from stuck in traffic in 100 degree florida weather to more "spirited" driving and the light is still off, oil is still full, and im just falling in love with this car even more. I am helping a friend work on their jeep this weekend, and then the rest of my fleet needs work so I am going to push any more inspections off another week as long as the light is staying off. so far, the oil has resolved the issue (or at least prolonged the inevitable) but I am more convinced the Lucas may have helped more than the weight of the oil. My brother recommended the Lucas and the blend as a "to save this engine its already half dead but if you have to drive it this will keep it alive a little longer" he's a real optimist but what are big brothers for. the plan is still to check the trouble spots youve all added here in a week, check the actual oil pressure with the gauge I just bought, and to change oil at the 3k mark to 10w30 without Lucas to see if it'll sustain, then in spring back down to the 5w30.

Where in FL?

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Where in FL?

Near Gainesville

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

If Lucas saved you then yes, the engine is tired and the bearings are on their last leg IMHO. Getting the actual oil pressure will be very telling.

if its tired then shes had a hard life, still under 100k. we all know what these cars were built for so its not impossible that its well worn, either way i intend to do as much diag as I can to find out

 

[kryptto]

Near Gainesville

Bummer - down in Wellington/Boynton Beach FL in Palm Beach County

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Bummer - down in Wellington/Boynton Beach FL in Palm Beach County

that's not far from where I bought the car, picked it up from an Acura dealer in Ft. Pierce

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

800 miles since oil change. No light, plenty of driving and idling in traffic. Today I got a curve ball, I've been abusing the remote start feature to let the car warm up a little, walked out to the car an smelled raw gas, and heard the car misfiring. Sure enough turn the car on and the CEL was flashing. Cut it off, restarted it, same deal. Cyl 2 misfire and o2 sensor. Cleared the codes and it was fine. Maybe it was a fluke, I googled it anyway (yes i googled a misfire, never know, could be a thing) and it was a thing, the truck guys had threads about a sporadic misfire that'd clear up and come back for no reason. Turns out some of the causes (outside the usual fuel or ignition parts which have mostly been replaced in the last 10k on my car) coincide with some of the low oil pressure trouble spots that have been suggested here, two specifically being malfunctioning pcv system and/or oily CAC. No such thing as coincidence right?

Although the oil pressure light has not come back I can't help but lean towards the PCV system, the oil on the TB, the random misfire and o2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1, pre cat) going nuts. I have to work on the wifes car tomorrow but im hoping ill have time finally to pop the pcv valve out and dig around. Thinking of investing in a catch can regardless of the outcome

 

[Ta2dResqr]

800 miles since oil change. No light, plenty of driving and idling in traffic. Today I got a curve ball, I've been abusing the remote start feature to let the car warm up a little, walked out to the car an smelled raw gas, and heard the car misfiring. Sure enough turn the car on and the CEL was flashing. Cut it off, restarted it, same deal. Cyl 2 misfire and o2 sensor. Cleared the codes and it was fine. Maybe it was a fluke, I googled it anyway (yes i googled a misfire, never know, could be a thing) and it was a thing, the truck guys had threads about a sporadic misfire that'd clear up and come back for no reason. Turns out some of the causes (outside the usual fuel or ignition parts which have mostly been replaced in the last 10k on my car) coincide with some of the low oil pressure trouble spots that have been suggested here, two specifically being malfunctioning pcv system and/or oily CAC. No such thing as coincidence right?

Although the oil pressure light has not come back I can't help but lean towards the PCV system, the oil on the TB, the random misfire and o2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1, pre cat) going nuts. I have to work on the wifes car tomorrow but im hoping ill have time finally to pop the pcv valve out and dig around. Thinking of investing in a catch can regardless of the outcome

Catch can is a good investment since this is a direct injection car. I am surprised the remote start didn't deactivate when the check engine light came on.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Catch can is a good investment since this is a direct injection car. I am surprised the remote start didn't deactivate when the check engine light came on.

Stolen from ecoboostperformanceforum.com

Check the PCV valve oil separator passenger back side on engine. Pull the valve get a flash light and look for oil pooling. See stolen pics fr9m xpost. Also others discussed the CAC. Remove the plastic cac hose from TB. Check for oil pooling in the CAC. Also Ford recommends not changing the weight of the oil or adding additives. I state this to say one item. You could be complicating the condition. It also sounds that a mechanic or last owner might of f'd things up. Going back to Ford standard weight with proper filter, etc etc... mixing things up and chasing issues while not keeping to Ford specs can add to the problems. I say this non judgementaly...

Make sure to CAC pipes are not drowning in oil. It is normal for there to be some oil, however look for caked up oil and pooling @Junkyard_Mad-Scientist

View attachment 88409

View attachment 88410

Define pooling, mine looks like the picture.



plus a bonus I found on cylinder 4 lol.

 

[kryptto]

Define pooling, mine looks like the picture.
View attachment 88502
View attachment 88501

plus a bonus I found on cylinder 4 lol.
View attachment 88500

That doesn't look to good

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

That doesn't look to good

What's the fix, catch can?

 

[BradM]

That doesn't look to good

I agree. Looks milky. Water? Does it smell like gas (given the "smelled raw gas" issue he had)?