3.0 to 3.2 conversion (not swap)

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Joe_SHO

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How did ford stretch the 3.0 to 3.2 liters? More bore, stroke or both? I have a knocking 3.0 that I either need to repair or replace, and either way I want to end up with something better than factory. Can i replace the 3.0 rotating assembly with 3.2 rotating assembly and end up with a 3.2? Anything I'm missing? Replacing a crankshaft sounds much better than replacing a fwd engine.

The car only has 96k on it, so I'm not worried about the heads or block. Of course that may change once I tear into it.
 

luigisho

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I think they are compatible. This is the original part number for 3.0 E9DZ-6303-A.
Have to check and see if this cross refs for the 3.2 crankshaft part number F3DZ-6303-A

Tasca has a cross compatibility listed on this page. Should double check before going forward
 
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rubydist

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For those of you who didn't bother to read the referenced article, the stroke is the same on the two engines. It is the bore that is larger on the 3.2. That means you would need to bore out your block to make it a 3.2 and it is recommended that you sonic test the block first to make sure there is enough wall thickness to do that successfully.
 

BaySHO Performance

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The 3.0 and 3.2 crankshafts are identical. However, replacing the crankshaft in an existing engine is iffy. It won't work unless you also transfer the main bearings, and even then it's questionable whether it will work.

Main bearings are no longer available, but we've discovered that Toyota bearings work:

The most common way of upgrading the engine from 3.0 to 3.2 is to transfer the whole short block over, maintaining the 3.0 heads for their more aggressive intake cams:

 

sperold

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I have both a 3.0 and a 3.2 in standard transmission cars. The 3.2 is better at launching the car, but not enough to warrant a swap (in my opinion).

It has been reported that you can change rod bearings in the car.

If the knock is slight, I would buy new rod bearings and install them on your existing crank, particularly if there are only 100k on your engine.
You can plasti-gauge the assembly to satisfy yourself it will work, if there is no scratch damage to your crank throw.

A lot nicer / cheaper than the swap idea.

If you put an adverisment on this forum, you will find an engine in your area that can be dropped in, as a plan B, but try plan A first.
 

rubydist

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Yes, I have changed rod bearings in the car. Not the most fun thing I have ever done, but aside from the oil dripping on you annoyingly it is not particularly hard.
 

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