28 mm rear anti-sway bar applications

[Foxwulfe]

I have been looking for the Taurus/Sable application that uses this size bar (28 mm) and have been unsuccessful. I assumed it would come on a police/taxi package, but all I found was a 24 mm on them, according to my vernier caliper. Did any stock applications have this, or am I being misled? Custom made then; so how do I get one?

<small>[ April 18, 2002, 11:43 AM: Message edited by: Foxwulfe ]</small>

 

[noSHO]

They can be had from IPT, and I believe they are $270. That price includes HD endlinks and poly bushings. An outstanding piece, VERY well made, and the difference is night and day. Works fantastically with the 24mm front bar, too.

 

[sdpatt]

The 26mm bar on the Gen I causes the car to lift its hind leg like a dog at a fire hydrant when going over small dips. When I raise the car with the jack immediately behind the front wheel well, the rear tire comes off the ground not a 1/4" of lift after the front tire. Already pretty darn stiff with the Gen I's bars and polyurethane bushings. How much more stiffness do you need in the rear of the SHO?

 

[NJshofear]

Theoretically (i beleive) the 28mm (and 29mm adj SHO Shop bar) will increase oversteer...i like the 24/26 in my 89...but i think a 24/28 would be sweet.

 

[noSHO]

Theoreitcally the do yes, but in reality it's more like reduce/eliminate understeer. No oversteer to be had in this car. It is neutral as can be, mild understeer when pushed EXTREMELY hard.

Scott- it isn't so much about "stiffness" as it is about getting the right combination for the desired handling characteristics. I didn't buy the bar to make the car stiff, I bought it so I could decrease my understeer. The 24/26 produces too much understeer for my taste, so rather than go to a smaller front bar, I went to a bigger rear. Really neither here nor there, and putting in the rear bar is much easier than putting in a new front one. I'm considering putting in a 22mm front, but I will probably leave the 24mm front for when I switch to a LSD.

 

[ChitownA34DR]

that bar would be massive!

 

[AutoXSHO]

Dave,

I bet we can find some oversteer in that car.

John V

 

[1fastsho]

The 28 bar is designed much differently than the OEM 26 bar. The 28 bar is straight across the car and doesn't have all the bends like the oem. This makes it more responsive and it is totally predictable........I have the 26 up front and it handles excellent too.

 

[noSHO]

AutoXSHO:
Dave,

I bet we can find some oversteer in that car.

John V

Have at it my friend, just don't forget I still have stock brakes and stock springs and struts. If you're around for the summer the ride should be much more interesting, however.

 

[Foxwulfe]

noSHO , want to give me a drive in it? You can see how it compares to mine. I am getting to like my 22mm front 26mm rear setup, espically at medium speeds. Definately not for everyday driving though. Thinking here; the bars can be modeled as being in nearly torsional (twisting) stress, so it can be approximated as a ratio for the feeling desired (over/understeer). Magnitude of body roll, though, could be proportional to comparative size? Any ideas here?

Anyone around me want to help me put on a front bar really soon? I have done many rears, but no fronts (please, no jokes). I have the 24mm bar with bushings (pretty and painted) and fresh good endlinks. I have no jack or stands here, but nearly all my tools. Please! I can involve beer, and even meat for a grill. I can even try to talk like Vin Diesel "nawwws". Maybe not.

<small>[ April 18, 2002, 11:05 PM: Message edited by: Foxwulfe ]</small>

 

[SilverSHO]

I can even try to talk like Vin Diesel

 

[noSHO]

I'd be happy to, just mosey your way on down to OU here in (heeeee-hhaawwww) Athens. I would imagine the 22/26 is very close in drivability to the 24/28, but with perhaps a smidge more body lean. I'd be interested to compare. You can do all the math and engineering stuff, I'll drive wink .

 

[Foxwulfe]

noSHO
I'd be happy to, just mosey your way on down to OU here in (heeeee-hhaawwww) Athens.

I am afraid of the "Southern" Ohio area, but when will you be back up here? And I do not think that my liver would like OU. Just kidding. Have you talked to 93SHOCOOL yet? I think that we are trying to see who and when people are going to the SHO convention.

<small>[ April 19, 2002, 01:59 PM: Message edited by: Foxwulfe ]</small>

 

[noSHO]

Foxwulfe:
I am afraid of the "Southern" Ohio area, but when will you be back up here? And I do not think that my liver would like OU. Just kidding. Have you talked to 93SHOCOOL yet? I think that we are trying to see who and when people are going to the SHO convention.

LOL! Yeah it's a really nice campus, but the area isn't what I'm used to. I will be back in Mentor the weekend of May 3rd to take the car out to Tony C. to start the work, but that's the soonest I will be back home. I talk to Jason all the time; we've discussed the convention before, but neither one of us is really sure when anyone is heading out.

 

[Foxwulfe]

I have been to OU a few years ago; very nice campus nestled in a valley. The Fraternaty buildings and campus commons were espically nice. Also saw my share of couch and keg laden front porches. I have just a couch here, but the neighbor has a keg.

Back to bars (no, not the drinking ones). I hear a lot of bushing discussion about the difference between rubber and less compliant materials such as TPR, Polygraphite, and Polyurethane. Also about bent end links. I conciede that a firmer surface that the bar is housed in makes it act more like it was inteded to do. If the bar was perfectly blueprinted and new, as well as all the attaching surfaces and acting components static in certain dimensions; I can see how one would want the best to be the best. As for making a HUGE difference, I doubt it. Our minds are swayed by dollars and hours. If it needs replaced, the price difference is neglegable, and drawbacks are few, I saw go with it. If you want to try and have money, go ahead. If your end links are both the same length and not bent in the useable part, I see no problem until they break. Although I have broken endlinks before. Other suspension components are a different story, though.
I like people who try different things on their own and analyze results for themselves. People like different things, and may have different purposes for their SHO. I am glad that I did not replace the 22mm front on my '93 when it was up on stands; I got to feel myself what that setup is capable of. Not just hearing and beleiving "aw, it will handle like shit!".

With that diatribe being out of my system, what experiences has everyone had with changes in their SHO's handeling by changing anti-sway bars and springs/struts? The good and the bad please.

 

[93SHOCOOL]

Justin, you should take a ride down here man. We could SHOw you the "Southern Way" I have an extra bedroom and plenty of "babes" if ya know what I mean. (Well not so much the babes..but I have an extra room) thumbs_u

 

[jeffnoel]

Checkout www.car-part.com I have seen the 28mm Police Package sway bar for $35 + shipping, you can't beat that.
thumbs_u

<small>[ May 21, 2002, 11:14 AM: Message edited by: jeffnoel ]</small>

 

[Dave Kegel]

When messing with sway bar tuning, keep in mind that changes to the cars handling can be made with the main bar bushings. On my '93, I run the 24mm front bar with rubber bushings, and the 26mm rear bar with poly. It's a pretty good combination, at least for me. Noticably less understeer than a 24/26 combo running either full rubber or full poly bushings.

Just somethng to consider.

Dave Kegel

 

[DeaconBlue]

I believe Nook finds the OE Ford 28mm RSB off the '91 SLO 3.8L police package cars. He has found several and sold them to members of the old Topica list and a few on eBay.

Shawn as stated above has a very nice new 28mm RSB and I believe that the SHO Shop was doing a 29mm RSB with adjustable preload link ends.

Either way those are some really big tree trunks to stick under the rear end of any Taurus wink