2016 Non PP Random Misfire Issues -- Check Engine Light -- Help Please

[Mr.ShoFast]

I keep thinking about this, and from what you've posted all the misfires are common to bank 1, but only under load. Without looking under my hood, I'm thinking that each fuel rail has it's own harness. High resistance at the bank 1 rail harness to main harness connector could be suspect. Low fuel rail pressure or bad fuel should effect both banks and throw random multiple misfires for all cylinders. You should be able to monitor MAP value w/ the torque app, or pull a spark plug from each bank and look at it (any plug on each bank that's easy to get to). Usually a restricted exhaust will cause the plug to have heavy black soot, so if bank 1 has issues and bank 2 is clean it's something worth checking further. Think of it like this, both cylinders have a common mouth providing air, a common fuel rail/fuel and 2 different ass holes-if one is puckered up it's going to cause issues on that side. Coils tend to just be wired to the main engine harness, but while you're under the hood you may want to verify there's no connector for each bank. It's the whole bit about misfires only being on bank 1 under load, on 1/2/3 that throws me off.

These are the plugs I removed last week. Got home late tonight so wasn’t able to buy the MA cleaner/spray but will get on it ASAP. I ordered a compression test kit from Amazon and should be here by the end of the week along with the OBD connector for the Torque app.

I’ll look at harnesses a bit closer once I get under the hood and see if it could be a connector that’s messing things up.

Thank you again for the help on this.

 

[SHOdded]

Those tips look almost ... orange. Maybe some MMT based octane booster was in use? These are the new plugs you put in, or what were in there already at time of purchase?

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Those tips look almost ... orange. Maybe some MMT based octane booster was in use? These are the new plugs you put in, or what were in there already at time of purchase?

These were the old plugs. I’ll remove the new plugs this weekend and post a picture. Let’s see how much one week worth of driving affected them.

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Cleaned the MA sensor this morning - let’s see how my drive to work is today. Still need to get to one more sensor but this one was just so easy to do.

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Also cleaned the sensor inside the air cleaner assembly this should be the IAT sensor right?

Thanks

 

[SHOdded]

Pipe looks pretty dry, so not likely ingesting crud from the intercooler. Once you check the IC tho, that will be verification.

Yes, that is the IAT sensor.

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Ok guys finally getting around to getting stuff checked out. I haven’t been able to find a solid and reliable layout of the cylinders for the SHO.

Is this the order?

(1) (3) (5)
(2) (4) (6)

——front of the car ——

These are the new plugs I put in just over 1-2 weeks ago. I don’t think they should be this bad but I’ll clean them up before putting them back on. These are the front 3 and easiest to pull out, working on the back 3 after this post is done.

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Here are the back three plugs...

 

[Johnbigdog]

If you stand behind the transmission facing the crank pulley on the right hand working from the front of the engine (crank) and back towards you is 1, 2 and 3. This is bank one. On the left side starting from the crank and working back to you is 4, 5, and 6. This is bank 2.

1. 2. 3.
Crank pulley. Engine. transmission. You.
4. 5. 6.

All* of Ford* is this way to K.I.S.S.

I don't know how to put the numbers above and below the word engine.

Orange plugs seem like you have something in your fuel.

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

If you stand behind the transmission facing the crank pulley on the right hand working from the front of the engine (crank) and back towards you is 1, 2 and 3. This is bank one. On the left side starting from the crank and working back to you is 4, 5, and 6. This is bank 2.

1. 2. 3.
Crank pulley. Engine transmission You
4. 5. 6.

All* of Ford* is this way to K.I.S.S.

You sir are a life saver - I will be swapping the coils from the front and placing them on the back. If the misfire codes go to 4-5-6 then I know what’s wrong.

Also goin to check the gap on the plugs and do a compression test. What numbers should I be looking for?

 

[Johnbigdog]

Compression psi is not important to Ford. You want to see the lowest reading is 75% of the highest. That is the spec. For cylinder leak down is 20%

 

[6500rpm]

If you stand behind the transmission facing the crank pulley on the right hand working from the front of the engine (crank) and back towards you is 1, 2 and 3. This is bank one. On the left side starting from the crank and working back to you is 4, 5, and 6. This is bank 2.

1. 2. 3.
Crank pulley. Engine. transmission. You.
4. 5. 6.

All* of Ford* is this way to K.I.S.S.

I don't know how to put the numbers above and below the word engine.

Orange plugs seem like you have something in your fuel.

Agreed- those plugs look like crap for two weeks and I can't think of anything other than contamination for the color. When I saw the pic's of the original plugs I thought it must have been from the cleaning chemicals chasing things to the plugs. Seeing the ones you just put in is a mystery. Fwiw, it's pretty simple to take out the rear seat cushion and remove the fuel pump if you want to physically look inside the tank but I'm kind of grasping at straws at this point.

 

[Johnbigdog]

Flashing CE light under WOT or when accelerating and trying to pass a vehicle
P0300 --> Random Misfire Detected
P0301 --> Cylinder #1 Misfire Detected
P0302 --> Cylinder #2 Misfire Detected
P0303 --> Cylinder #3 Misfire Detected

Random occurrence on this code
P0087 --> Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low

After SeaFoam in the TB
P2196 --> O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank #1 Sensor #1
P2198 --> O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank #2 Sensor #1​

​

Last time I used sea foam top engine cleaner i also set the rich bank 1 and 2. The car is smart enough to see what your spraying in. Ignore these as you caused them.

The misfires are a result of your fuel rail pressure being to low. Misfires can set specific cylinder but also can set specific cylinder with the randome code you have.

I don't disagree with swapping your coils as this is cheap and easy for you, just don't see that many coils failing at once unless there is a power/ground fault.

Being you have the fuel pressure DTC I would chase this. There isn't a mechanical test for the fuel rail pressure sensor, but you can run the engine on base fuel pressure from the electric pump with a mechanical gauge on the low pressure system. Start the car, one its idling disconnect the connector on the high pressure fuel pump. This will prevent pressure from being built. The fuel rail pressure should be within 35 psi of the gauge. The fuel line pressure sensor should be within 15.

You can monitor pid data and wiggle the f.r.p. sensor conector too.

 

[Johnbigdog]

Agreed- those plugs look like crap for two weeks and I can't think of anything other than contamination for the color. When I saw the pic's of the original plugs I thought it must have been from the cleaning chemicals chasing things to the plugs. Seeing the ones you just put in is a mystery. Fwiw, it's pretty simple to take out the rear seat cushion and remove the fuel pump if you want to physically look inside the tank but I'm kind of grasping at straws at this point.

I bet it's from the marvel mystery oil.

 

[SHOdded]

I would suspect the fuel pump control module and/or fuel ump delivery module for low FRP. There was an issue with the earlier Gen 5's that was traced to faulty FPCMs. Check to see what part number is on yours, maybe swap it outright anyway. Easy to get to and fairly inexpensive.

I dont see MMO being an issue in conservative doses of 4-5 oz per tankful. More isnt necessarily better. If you are doing it as a cleanup, run a tank with it then a tank without it and change plugs afterward, also engine oil.

And of course, continue to post pics

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Quick update for everyone interested in the status. The car has been in the Ford Dealership since January 14th (one month today).

Under the emissions warranty they replaced the following:

3 spark plugs
3 coils
1 catalytic converter
1 fuel rail
? Injector/s (not sure how many)
1 timing chain (doing that today)

It’s been grueling not having a car for a month. I hope the timing chain issue (stretched) is what caused the misfires and nothing related to the cam or valves contributed to the problem.

 

[SHOdded]

Fingers crossed! Timing chains shouldn't stretch that easily, that is the f150's domain LOL. Hopefully they will verify solenoid operation as well.

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Fingers crossed! Timing chains shouldn't stretch that easily, that is the f150's domain LOL. Hopefully they will verify solenoid operation as well.

I was surprised also and didn’t really think it was going to be that serious ...

Specially with only 42k+ miles ...

I bought it used so who knows what it’s previous life was like...

I’ll keep you guys posted ...

 

[Mr.ShoFast]

Amazing news!!!

The SHO is back in business after almost 3 months in the Ford Dealership!!!

Below are the results of the extensive and lengthy diagnosis and repairs they made. All covered under Fords California emissions warranty.

 

[Jeff2017]

Hard to believe that they basically just started replacing parts with no clue of the cause. You would think they would have more expertise than that. It is their creation.