2010 SHO Help Needed

[bpopilek]

Hello all! So about a month ago I picked up my first SHO, and while it's mostly in excellent condition, there were a few things that need to be repaired. I'm looking for some advice or help from other owners.

First, I've been getting 3 different check engine light codes. The first is P0150 for an O2 sensor (Bank 2 Sensor 1). Where would I find this particular sensor?
The second is P0128 for coolant thermostat. It stats that temp is too low. When this one happens, I see that my engine temp gauge is all the way to cold. I'm assuming that the temp sensor is going bad. I picked up a replacement sensor, but don't know where to find the existing one.
The last code comes and goes and is like P0100 and is something about OBD not ready. Any ideas on this?

When I first picked it up, I could hear a clunking in the front passeneger side. I assumed that this was a bad strut. So I bought new fully loaded struts and replaced them. However, the clunk is still there. I'm assuming the previous owner must have thought this too because the passenger strut was replaced with a junkyard part. What else could be causing this? I can also hear clunking when turning the steering wheel back and forth. I'm thinking of just replacing both lower control arms / ball joints and the inner and outer tie rods. Is there anything else that I should look at?

The chrome on the rear tail lights and rims is crap! I thought about removing the tail lights and painting the chrome parts black. Unless someone has a good idea on how to cheaply rechrome them. Also the rims are chipping. Is this a known issue and can they be repaired or even sand blasted and powder coated?

Lastly, I'd love to add a remote start to this car. Did Ford release a factory add on one that works for this with the push button start? If yes, is there a Ford part number and what is required for the install?

Thanks in advance for your help!


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[SHOdded]

Bank 2 sensor 1 is the radiator side sensor, luckily, pre-catalytic converter. Fairly easy to get to.

May need a new thermostat. Check coolant temp with an IR gun. If it confirms that temps are staying low, the thermostat is open all the time. The sensor is basically the CHT (Cylinder Head Temperature) sensor, from which coolant temperature is extrapolated. There is a possibility of pest-chewed wiring, but I think that shows up as overtemp, not undertemp.

P1000 is nothing to worry about, just means the PCM has been reset and is relearning. What is the condition of the battery in the car. Check not only voltage but CCAs, with the engine and all accessories shut off, wait 40 minutes after engine shutoff to check. Batteries don't typically last very long in these cars.

Could be a strut mount/bearing since you are hearing the clunk turning right/left, does it happen when the car is parked or only when in motion? Motorcraft mount/bearing only please if you want quality. Since the mount can be checked while the car is parked, good time to have a helper locate the sound If the mount is ok and tightened down properly, control arm and tie rod would def be next on the list, they do go bad.

Strip the "chrome" and repaint. Will take patience, but works well. Or get SEL taillights and be worryfree!

Wheels ... chipping is not usually an issue, but if it starts, best for the longterm to have them sandblasted/powdercoated like you said. OR replace the with PVD chrome wheels from detroit wheels (ebay).

Remote start: yes, Ford does make kits. Not sure about the compatibility with pushbutton, but here are the options
https://parts.levittownfordparts.co...t&scatgrp=electronics&scatsubgrp=remote-start

Having a Viper system professionally installed is another choice.

 

[ridered74]

I could be wrong, but I thought all the SHO's had remote start. On the 10-12 models there was a separate smaller FOB for it. That FOB may be all you need for yours to work.

 

[bpopilek]

The sensor is basically the CHT (Cylinder Head Temperature) sensor, from which coolant temperature is extrapolated.

Where is this located at? I did find some nuts and "bedding" when I removed the engine cover, so this is a definite possibility.

P1000 is nothing to worry about, just means the PCM has been reset and is relearning.

Makes sense. The battery was dead when I went to see the car and the dealer put in a brand new one. Last 2 times I checked codes, that one was finally absent.

Could be a strut mount/bearing since you are hearing the clunk turning right/left, does it happen when the car is parked or only when in motion?

The struts I installed were brand new and fully loaded. So they had new springs and mounts/bearings. I do forget the brand at the moment, but they were around $200 ea. The clunk when turning right/left happens at park or while driving. The other clunking sound is while driving and hitting bumps/uneven pavement. I'm leaning towards ball joints and tie rods.

Thank you very much for the assistance so far!


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[SHOdded]

Sway bar links can cause clunks going over bumps. Sounds like a complete suspension check is in order. If one side is bad, do the other side too, or at least plan to shortly so you can have an enjoyable experience for the most amount of time. Have the wheel bearings checked too, although no signs of issues are noted.

 

[bpopilek]

I could be wrong, but I thought all the SHO's had remote start. On the 10-12 models there was a separate smaller FOB for it. That FOB may be all you need for yours to work.

I was under the impression from reading other posts that the SHO did not come with a remote starter at first. I got 3 fobs with the car, but they were the regular ones for lock/unlock etc. I either want the factory add on version, or worse case I'll look at a good brand aftermarket one.


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[SHOdded]

IDK, but if you get the ford system installed, maybe you can use the FordPass app to track/remotely start it too. Ford's offerings are always in flux, but something worth checking on.

 

[bpopilek]

Sway bar links can cause clunks going over bumps. Sounds like a complete suspension check is in order. If one side is bad, do the other side too, or at least plan to shortly so you can have an enjoyable experience for the most amount of time. Have the wheel bearings checked too, although no signs of issues are noted.

Absolutely! I learned long ago to not cheap out and only do one side. If one side is bad the other either is too or isn't far behind. And I agree that if I do the whole suspension then I'll eliminate most of my issues. And I'm pretty sure that the wheel bearings are fine. I've replaced enough of them over the years, but I will double check them to be sure.

Other than the cheap chrome (which isn't a mechanical problem) and the suspension issues (which happen to all cars over time), it's in very nice condition. I'm loving it so far!


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[Oliver]

I realize this is an old post. But in case anybody else comes across this. I had the same clunking noise from the right front. For me it was the lower control arm bushing. The rear bushing has a large amount of rubber to assist with ride quality. These bushings tend to wear out. I replaced mine and it solved the problem. I would suggest getting a lower control arm that already has the bushing pressed on. They are not easy to change without a press. Hope this helps!

 

[bpopilek]

I realize this is an old post. But in case anybody else comes across this. I had the same clunking noise from the right front. For me it was the lower control arm bushing. The rear bushing has a large amount of rubber to assist with ride quality. These bushings tend to wear out. I replaced mine and it solved the problem. I would suggest getting a lower control arm that already has the bushing pressed on. They are not easy to change without a press. Hope this helps!

That's exactly the same steps I took when replacing the parts on my car. The entire control arm is definitely the way to go.


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