2010 PTU croaked

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twobitcoder

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I have a "no maintenance necessary" self-contained transfer case in my 2010 that died. I asked the local Ford dealer to put in a 2013 PTU which has a drain plug but got a blank stare back from the service rep. Since I'm working long hours and don't feel like doing it on my own or screwing with a possibly unreliable indie shop, I just told them to do it, put another 2010 PTU in the car. Dammit.
Well hopefully it'll be good for another 150k because that's how long the original one lasted. I ranted about sh*tty engineering but the poor service people don't know much about mechanicals other than how to check the oil. Seriously. Office workers, not mechanics. But, okay, I need it running so I just had to let them do it. $2200 just for parts. I'm not complaining, don't get me wrong. This car hasn't cost me very much. A lot of small things have gone out but this is the first drivetrain problem in 6 years.
I might shop around for a 2013+ PP since I hear they've lost a lot of value (the time I like to buy). Like some of you have said, the 2010 had a lot of issues.
 

Jordan_R

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Sounds like they are ****** you on parts price. Last I had checked with my parts guy a PTU was <$700 unless you are having them do something else at the same time. Somebody else surely will chime in.
 

luigisho

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There's a recent thread with the DIY ptu drain plug. Doesn't look too hard if you have the cajones to drill into it.
 

High on Ethanol

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10years and 150k is pretty good... What do you think you would get "with maintenance"?
I think the PTU would be extremely maintenance free if they didn't put the exhaust so close to it.
 

bpd1151

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The dealership was/is incorrect.

They likely sold you an older PTU that they had in their inventory.

Ford's updated their PTU's recently, in so much as all of them now come with the drain plug.

I have a call in, to obtain the proper part #. But the weekend's just began. Not sure if I'll get that info until Monday.

I'll repost when I do.

Whether it helps you (might not as it sounds like you already had the repair performed) but it should help others, or even you in the future if it arises again.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

twobitcoder

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Oh no the repair is not completed yet as this Ford dealer has been delayed in acquiring the replacement part. So, yes, I would appreciate your information. Thanks. Also, if the "better" part includes a drain plug, I would hope to receive one during this service.

(Also I might have misunderstood, maybe it's $2200 with labor, I'll call them Monday morning).
 

Jeff2017

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150k miles isn't bad based on how the fluid looks in some cars at 50k miles. You must baby your car.
 

twobitcoder

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The PTU has been "clunking" randomly at decel for a couple years now. I knew it was problematic but Ford dealer wanted 5.5 hours labor to replace the oil. They said it has to be removed and should only be done if it's in distress. Well... $700 labor for the oil change and it might not last.... So I cringed and walked away knowing this day was coming, and I wouldn't mind paying for a new one because I have enjoyed the car.

It's good to hear that 150k is good mileage. I bought it at 70k. I wouldn't mind upgrading to a newer model. Honestly, I might just get a Limited instead of a SHO, to avoid the AWD complexity. I thought of upgrading to a new SHO but thought about it and realized I enjoy the speed but don't use it very often and a Limited will have the same features sans the turbos and a PTU. There's a GT500 in my future to scratch that particular itch.
 

Jeff2017

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$700 for a PTU fluid change? My dealer quoted me $300 last September. I haven't done it yet. Only have 22k on the car.
 

b4black

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The car is ten years old - no need to go to the dealership anymore. Find an independent shop that will do it for much less. Replacing the PTU is not a dealer only type job.
 

luigisho

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The car is ten years old - no need to go to the dealership anymore. Find an independent shop that will do it for much less. Replacing the PTU is not a dealer only type job.
Unless you have an extended warranty, I agree with this. That is if you can find a good independent tech or dealer tech for that matter. It's like finding any other prefessional out there. Try and find a good one and hang on until they move or die.
 

twobitcoder

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There are no good shops nearby. I took another vehicle to one local shop and after a week, went to pick it up, still hadn't inspected the problem. The dealer really isn't any more expensive than indie shops, they all charge $100-150/hr now. (Btw the 2nd vehicle, a Sienna, needs lower control arms, and I'm so fed up I just bought them myself...that is one job I can do myself).
 

twobitcoder

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The Ford dealer that's doing the job said that $2200 includes labor. So that's a relief.
 

bpd1151

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My apologies for any delays in following up.

Have had a deluge of monsoon like, flooding torrential rains here in the Chicagoland area and I've been working some overtime, as well as dealing with my own issues with our septic system being overwhelmed due to the above.

Anyhow, I am being told the part # is as follows:

DA8Z7251C

This is for the PTU that INCLUDES THE DRAIN.

Pricing varies, so be sure to check around.

Hope that's of some help!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
[/B]
 

twobitcoder

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Thanks for the input I appreciate it. I've been really tired from work so I just picked up the car haven't looked underneath it yet. If it doesn't have the drain plug.... Oh well. That being the weak link I'm sure this car has a lot of life left in it.
 

SM105K

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Thanks for the input I appreciate it. I've been really tired from work so I just picked up the car haven't looked underneath it yet. If it doesn't have the drain plug.... Oh well. That being the weak link I'm sure this car has a lot of life left in it.

The PTU isn't the weak link. Here is a great explanation from MrHighCaliber about why they fail.


"PTU's don't fail at least not from a power handling perspective. These only fail from lack of maintenance. Spun bearings and galling of the gears from lack of lubrication.

High Heat dries up the lighter oil molecules in the ****, which causes more heat due to lack of lubrication (thermal runaway) which leads to the remaining gear oil turning to thick black paste which clogs up the vent tube in the ptu which cause pressure buildup in the ptu which forces the remaining, non-congealed fluid out past the shaft seals. Now the only left is a thick paste thats easily flung off of the gears, sticking only to the case. After this chain of events, the bearings run dry and begin to fail, next are the gears. Tolerances widen or things begin to sieze. Bearing and gear noise are usually the first signs of mechanical failure.

But the PTU internals are stout. The weakest part of our powertrain is the RDU Atc coupler. (The electronic coupler in the rear differential). At least in terms of tq capacity and power handling."
 

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