2 questions please read!

[Racer X]

And yet another case of "preventative" rod bearing replacement leading to an unnecessary failure. This is why I've been preaching against the rod bearing hysteria. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. FWIW, I'm sorry you were given bad advice.

Not for nothing, but every set of rod bearings I've replaced have had enough wear to make me uneasy, and none have failed afterward.

If the bearings fail following replacement, chances are that it's installer error, or the crank was too damaged to be used as is in the first place.

 

[Bob Gervais]

If the bearings fail following replacement, chances are that it's installer error, or the crank was too damaged to be used as is in the first place.

Agree 100%

 

[93rev2sev]

Agree 100%

Co-Signed.

I've only done 4 sets, but every time, the oil pressure light went from about 800RPM to below 500RPM. All of them have over 5000 miles since changing them.

 

[Huntervf]

Not saying changing bearings isn't benefitial, but if you're doing it "just because" and f it up you're screwed. It's not like changing a timing belt or CPS... screw those up and you just have to reinstall the belt and maybe get a new CPS. You're out some extra time, but nothing else. Screw up bearings and you're out an ENGINE.

For such a vital part, IMO, don't muck with it unless you have a reason to.

 

[Racer X]

Not saying changing bearings isn't benefitial, but if you're doing it "just because" and f it up you're screwed. It's not like changing a timing belt or CPS... screw those up and you just have to reinstall the belt and maybe get a new CPS. You're out some extra time, but nothing else. Screw up bearings and you're out an ENGINE.

For such a vital part, IMO, don't muck with it unless you have a reason to.

Maybe so, but following this logic, are you saying that one shouldn't change them until they're making noise? IMO, if they're making noise, it's already too late. Not to mention that if an error in installation is made, the engine is hosed whether it's a preventive replacement, or whether it's a corrective replacement.

If your SHO has more than 100k on it, I'd replace the bearings if it's never been done. Not everyone gets lucky and has them let go in their driveway where there might be a chance. If they let go at highway speed, or at 7k, it's going to be a bad day.

 

[Bob Gervais]

Not saying changing bearings is BAD,

FWIW, I'm sorry you were given bad advice.

Yeah, you kinda did.

IMO, rod bearings on the V6 cars are like cams on a V8. It's not a matter of "if", it's a matter of "when" they'll go. And of course on the V6 cars it's much cheaper and easier to replace the engine than it is to start replacing cranks, machining, etc. V6 engines are a lot cheaper to buy than the V8's, but if you can save having to replace it with a simple preventive maintenance procedure, why not?

Key point to remember when doing rod bearings, is knowing what the **** you're doing. If you don't, and don't have anyone to help you that does, pay someone else to do it (preferably, me! :wave.

 

[Bob Gervais]

Not saying changing bearings isn't benefitial, but if you're doing it "just because" and f it up you're screwed. It's not like changing a timing belt or CPS... screw those up and you just have to reinstall the belt and maybe get a new CPS. You're out some extra time, but nothing else. Screw up bearings and you're out an ENGINE.

For such a vital part, IMO, don't muck with it unless you have a reason to.

Quoted before the edit FTMFW!!!

lol

 

[Huntervf]

Yeah, I tend to post then find a better structure to what I want to say Changing bearings for no other reason than because you think they should be done CAN be bad... that better?

The difference with cams is that people aren't welding cams in their backyard while reading a how-to on welding from some web site. Only pros are doing that work (or should be doing it), and given the extreme importance of the bearings, IMO, it shouldn't be something thrown together by a first-timer, especially if there's nothing wrong already. Perhaps that's my beef with changing rod bearings... not that it shouldn't be done, but it shouldn't be done by someone who "kinda" has an idea how to do it.

I'm not one to turn another thread into a big rod bearing debate, but I still believe quite strongly that this is an issue that gets way overblown. Given all the SHOs on the road, odds are you'll have some other major failure before spinning a bearing. If you have 200,000 on your engine, and you're getting a flicker of the oil light should the revs get low (under 800), might be a good idea to change them. If the car is tight and running strong, why open yourself up to potential problems? Or if you insist on getting the bearings done, at least go to someone who is well qualified and experienced in changing them.

EDIT:: Did you get me before my three edits this time? :laugh_ti:

 

[Bob Gervais]

EDIT:: Did you get me before my three edits this time? :laugh_ti:

 

[platoribs]

When it comes to maintenance, be it preventative OR corrective...

I just check with James, if he needs some money for a new car or a trip somewhere, I'll have some maintenance done. If its an inconvenience at that time I just wait till he needs me.

 

[platoribs]

When it comes to maintenance, be it preventative OR corrective...

I just check with James, if he needs some money for a new car or a trip somewhere, I'll have some maintenance done. If its an inconvenience at that time I just wait till he needs me.

Hey! These Cherrios taste funny!

 

[SHO_91]

55K miles since my rod bearing job, and the bearings that came out at 215K mi weren't so bad as to needing immediate replacement. Agreed, this should be DIYed only by someone with at least basic mechanical skills. That said, it's not that hard of a job, and if you can follow simple assembly/disassemly instructions and torque specs paired with common sense, the job will be successful and should leave you with no 2nd thoughts.
I really haven't heard that often of f'ed up RB jobs...?

 

[Freshusmc]

Cad i dont know why i would have to reset the idle when it idles at normal rpms. and since i found something in the filter im 100% that it was a clogged up filter.